HOrnbrod

This stupid thread was closed almost a couple of years ago. Now you have opened it up again. :yes:

:thumbsup:

Some of those harnesses came with defective headlamp / relay sockets. If one side is working, the high beam relay is triggering and passing voltage. Got a meter or test light? Turn the high beams on and backprobe the headlight connector on the bad side to check for 12V on the high beam connector pin. If you have voltage, the headlamp itself could have gone bad. If no voltage start tracing it back to the high beam relay.

You can get it a little cheaper at your local O'Reillys. :thumbsup:

You're not using it for anything - can I have it? Would help clean up your engine compartment. :yes:

What is that bracket for that the ground is tied to?

Pretty sure you have to drop the pan and the valve body to get to it, but I haven't done it..........

Then only the top procedure on the link I provided applies. Unlike the floor shift, the column shift has only one cable that does the gear shifting and PARK interlock. Before trying to adjust the cable and possibly breaking the 20+ year old plastic pieces, pull the shift cable off the trans lever by removing the two bracket screws. Then put the gear selector in PARK (make sure the detent clicks in), then bolt the bracket back on and eyeball how close the cable end hole is to the lever stud. This will tell you how much (if any) adjustment is needed. A broken parking pawl detent spring can also cause the tranny intermittent PARK engagement.........

Was there a strainer on the pump suction line or was it MIA?

Floor or column shift? http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Automatic_Shifter_Adjustments.htm

Hey Eagle - this is what you need. :rotfl2: Attractive, great mileage, and free pizza for five years. Can be easily modified to look like a 2-DR Renegade too with a little vertical grille work and a roof rack.

You guys are too paranoid. Email is fine with me and for phone calls I never answer if I don't recognize the caller ID. The caller must leave a voicemail first, then I'll call back. Screw texting......

I had it done by the shop during the regear. https://drivetrainproductsreview.wordpress.com/2013/02/15/dana-trac-lok-rebuild/

You can almost be certain the Trac-Lok clutches are shot. Mine were when I found my MJ axle. Even if they were not gone I'd still replace them. 708203 Spicer Dana 44 Clutch Kit

Yes, mirror images because of the shock stud. I found plenty of the 52004845 plates, but no 52004844's. Weird. Part numbers: 52001832 & 52001833 (1987-89) (Needs the reinforcement plates too) 52004844 & 52004845 (1990-92) OR you could always go aftermarket with something like these:

Just use WJ front LCAs OP. They are the same length as the stock MJ/XJ arms, and will support up to a 3" lift with zero problems. You'll just have to throw in a shim or two on each side to correct the caster angle.

WJ lowers are a nice swap for our MJs. Lots of threads in the forum regarding installation.

But they were all 93-ish and below. It was in 94 that the sorcerers at MB changed to a biodegradable harness to 'help' with recycling the car when the time came. Some of them recycle themselves prematurely. :thumbsup: Good info.

Hmm - didn't know that. I've had several W124's over the years, mostly coupe CE's, and never had an engine wiring harness problem. But they were all 93-ish and below.

Old thread Gog. The Bilsteins started out fine, but got progressively stiffer the more I drove it. I junked the Bilsteins after about a year and a half and went back to OMEs. No more Bilsteins on my MJ for moi.

But did you do the sidewalk thing? LOL. There ain't no sidewalks where Knuck is from.. :rotfl2:

I'll give it a shot: First, fuel system. Can I run the pre-96 style fuel system in conjunction with the '96 harness and PCM without trouble. By that I mean, for those that don't know, '96 is the first year to go to the pressure regulator inside of the tank, as opposed to on the fuel rail. I have an MJ HO sender handy, so I suspect I could use that, but I want verification. I see no reason at all why you couldn't use the fuel rail supply and return from a 91-95 HO with a fixed 39psi-49psi regulator (or a Hesco adjustable FPR) along with your HO sender to power up your 96 injectors. I've read a few threads over on NAXJA when the in-tank regulators died in 96-99 XJs and instead of changing it out guys just swapped in the earlier fuel rails with a 30/49 FPR. It's done all the time with strokers and the 39/49 injectors are the ones I'm using in mine. Plus you will have the correct polarity for the 96 cluster electronic fuel gauge. Secondly, is it possible to use the GM style steering column with the ChryCo ignition system? I don't care about airbags, and besides, the steering wheel and air bag in my donor is of no worth due to the collision. Also, I want to retain my factory AMC branded Jeep keys. 96 and up used Mopar bagged steering columns while the 95 and below pre-airbag models used Saginaw columns. But they both used the same steering gear boxes and pumps, so swapping in the older column should work just fine. The 96 ECU would show a airbag fault code though unless there's a way to fake a signal to the ECU. Thirdly, would I be able to use the older HVAC box and controls with the newer harness? The XJ's HVAC box is busted beyond repair. I want to have heat and A/C if possible. :dunno: Also, to tie into that, can I use the older style A/C compressor (the one that has the bolts mount through the front, not the top)? The compressor is brand new and the freon lines look like they'll screw right on. The 91-96 A/C compressors are the same Sanden series and can be clocked for multiple mouting positions for the lines. So I don't think that will be a problem. Fourthly, being that the donor harness is from an automatic and the MJ it's going in is a 5-speed, is there concern there for issues, besides bypassing the NSS? I know cruise control won't work, but I shouldn't have an CEL's since the AW4 has it's own controller computer in '96, correct? Sounds all correct to me.....

I used that VIN decoder (1JTMW6416HT191051). The jeep is an 87, but was also originally 2WD. It definitely has had a motor swap. I will have to see if I can find another VIN on the motor, and see what year it came out of. I store it in my Dad's garage since I do not have the space here at my house. I will look into this a lot more over the weekend. Look for the block casting number: 1987-90 53005535 1991-95 53008405 1996-98 53020569 1999-04 53010449 Location is the front left side of the block: You can also ID the cylinder head to see if you have a Renix or HO head: 1987-90......2686 1991-95......7120 1996-98......0630 1999-06......0331 Image Not Found But since the body is an 87, it's a conversion. Adam nailed it. :cheers:

Yes, 30 seconds to a minute max depending on the ambient temperature.