HOrnbrod

Get that Avenger in mate. What's taking so long? :yes:

Agree. Mine are from a 2-DR XJ Laredo with NOS covers and butt bottoms. Got about $200 in them. Very comfy, much better than the crappy leather seats in my (read wife's) new JK. They are still out there - keep looking.

I'd take that as a positive sign. As long as it's S. Korea. :thumbsup:

There have been a few reports here of Carter pumps dying early, but they are still better than the Airtex junk. The Bosch pumps seem to be the most reliable and quietest.

Welcome to the club. :cheers: Perhaps the rear end is down a couple of inches due to the trailer resting on the bumper?

Correct. Getting rid of it is like throwing the baby out with the bath water. An afternoon of tweaks and maintenance and you're good to go. The problem is that with a Renix you have more tweaks & maintenance to do the following afternoon and whenever the temperature changes or the sun shines.

What difference?

I compared the pics to my NOS unit and it looks very close.

Good find! http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-tank-sending-unit/delphi-fuel-tank-sending-unit/jeep/comanche-2wd/1992/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/342630_806538_0/?checkfit=true Image Not Found

Good point. I revise my last reply to CHEAP rules. Especially here on CC. :thumbsup:

NOS rules.

The same seller as the above has a crapload of NOS gray XJ/MJ seat covers. Check out his other auctions.

Thanks Jason - appreciate the response. :cheers:

:dunno: There's a lot of funky stuff on a Renix........

Of course you can use off the roll heater hose by the foot for this, but the OP asked: CAN the 97+ molded hoses be used on a Renix? I'd like to know also...................

All true Dirt-man. Not bashing the 8.8, it's a fine axle. I just opted to hold out for the MJ D44 because I wanted one. But I did use Ford Explorer disk brakes on it. :yes: Nothing wrong with economic sense, but it's often used to justify cheapness, as you well know.

The bigger reason for the 8.8 axle's popularity is that they are plentiful and cheap. To me it was worth searching for and finally finding an MJ D44.

Since it's leaking at the same spot like three different times, it's a good bet your oil pan is warped. It almost looks like it is in your pics. After cleaning the old gasket off, did you slide a straightedge along the pan outer perimeter to check for gaps? New pans don't cost much. I'd replace it with a new one and use another Felpro rubber gasket. Pay particular attention to the torque values and tightening order when installing. I've never had a leak in that area of an oil pan, but I've had to do the RMS twice a couple of times...........

Wet Okole: https://www.wetokole.com/JEEPCHERF-.html Image Not Found

That's pretty impressive - didn't know you could do that. :cheers: It does sound like the gauge itself could be the problem. If your circuit checks from the sender to the gauge cluster turn out okay I'll soon have a spare fuel gauge you can have.

I'm not a fan of hood vents either. Here's a ton of options, even one from me: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoBonnetVents.htm If you are looking for cosmetics, there are several good looking examples there. For functionality to actually lower under hood temps, they are not that efficient. The only thing that actually works well is a cowl hood.

Some questions since my shift cable is quite tight: 1. What year is your MJ? 2. How did you run your run your AW4 shift cable, over or under the booster? 3. Which booster mod did you do, the 95-96 XJ or the WJ?

How did you check the sender's ohm readings at the tank, and what were they? Should be: Empty - 105 ohms 1/2 = 33 ohms Full = 5 ohms

Love the old Hilborn mechanical fuel injection stacks - IF they are real. Unlike the tacky fake stacks below. :shake:

If I were going to do this, I'd use an unused dash switch (rear defrost is available on mine) inline on the ECU ground output (pin 12) to the ASD relay. When starting, the ECU waits for three seconds after cranking to receive the cam & crank shaft signal. If it receives this signal, it latches the ASD relay and allows the fuel pump relay to latch and keep the engine running. With the dash switch open preventing the ASD relay from latching, the engine will die in three seconds. Foolproof - for the HOs only of course. FWIW, this is how the crappy factory security system prevented the engine from starting if a fault was triggered.