HOrnbrod

I looked in the parts manuals and the AW4 2WD output shaft was the same p/n from 87-01. So 27 spline output shafts for all. The O/D ratio change was in 91 I believe.

OP was asking about 2WD transmissions. EDIT: But I did screw up. The AW4 2WD output spline count is 27, not 23. 23 is for the AW4 4WD output shafts, starting in 1991.....

There are hundreds of seats that can physically fit and be used in an MJ. Each will be a unique adaptation. There's no universal "how to". Like anything that's not MJ specific, you have to use your imagination and fab skills to make things fit and function........

Were they HO's? Probably not with all the chrome. :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

What's with the third person? :rotfl2:

1990 was the first year for the 23 spline output AW4, so a 90-97 2WD AW4 would be the easiest replacements. There are some wiring pinout differences to the TCU throughout the years, but with the wiring diagrams these are easy get right.

I'm honored to be the first to congratulate Mike for not only being an original blue 1990 MJ owner, but the owner of two other pristine beauties in red and white. And it's obvious you don't play favorites; they all look great. Was the red, white, and blue intentional Mike or did it just work out that way? It must be tough each morning deciding which one to drive to work. :yes: And special thanks for being an invaluable CC member who's always ready, willing, and able to help the rest of us out. You are truly an outstanding club member and have earned the April 2017 MJOTM award. I think you should also receive the May and June selections too since all your MJs are superb. You and your three MJ rides represent all the good things the Comanche Club stands for. :cheers:

Then the fuel pump hot and/or ground wire has an air gap caused by whatever you removed. Follow the wires from the fuel pump and see where the break is. BTW, what model/engine/etc. is/was the truck?

That's a wheel stud. They press in/out of the axle flange. Or use a BFH (Big Flocking Hammer) and heat. For your MJ it's a 1/2-20 x 1.625 (or whatever size the other studs are). https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_wheels/wheel_studs

Unscrew and remove the left tail lamp from the fender. The ground connection is a sheet metal screw fastening several wires, including the fuel pump ground wire, to ground behind the lamp.

All 91-95 HO map sensors are firewall mounted and can be used on a Renix. The 96 only MAP is TB mounted but has the same outputs and the earlier MAPs. The 97 and up MAPs are all TB mounted and have different outputs than the earlier MAPS. Okay, thanks for the correction, I thought all the TB mounted ones were the same. Silly for them to change them. The 96 was the first OBD2 year but still retained some of the OBD1 sensors. The 97 models were full blown OBD2 and none of the sensors AFAIK will play on our OBD1 or Renix stuff.

All 91-95 HO map sensors are firewall mounted and can be used on a Renix. The 96 only MAP is TB mounted but has the same outputs and the earlier MAPs. The 97's and up MAPs are all TB mounted and have different outputs than the earlier MAPS.

Don, that is a good thought on the cross body harness. One last thing...the p/w switch on the passenger door is works backwards. Press down, window goes up. Press up, window goes down. Three wires are all that's needed from the left door switch to the right door switch for the windows. To get your right door switch working correctly just swap the two regulator motor wires. :thumbsup:

The wipers use a self-renewing circuit breaker, not a fuse. When troubleshooting, don't ever short across a circuit breaker or fuse for the obvious reasons stated above. Get a test light or multimeter and check for power on the circuit breaker terminals.

The passenger door window isn't used as much so there's probably more drag going up and down. That and the puny factory cross-body wiring contribute to slooooooow down the windows. I made my own harnesses for the windows using heavier gauge wiring so I'm sure that helped in my case.

Yes you can run the stock master cylinder and brake booster.

Si. Good to see Carly again. :cheers:

The Mopar regulators are pretty slow. If and when you need a replacement, and I hope you don't, try a replacement from the link above. I had a couple of 96 and below XJs, and the Electric Life regulators were quite a bit faster. But the ones I got originally were made in Italy, who knows about now. Maybe they are C.R.A.P.'s.

Huh? Haven't heard that one before. I wired in a set of these regulators in using stock XJ window switches about ten years ago and they still work fine. Swapping in new doors just for power windows seems counterproductive to me.

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I'll probably buy one just because of the video background music. Love CCR. :cheers:

One example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Driveshaft-Slip-Yoke-Long-27-SP-1310-GM-T350-TH-350-/191992197817?hash=item2cb3a072b9:g:0F8AAOSwNRdX-9Tb&vxp=mtr A slip yoke that has 27 splines and uses series 1310 u-joints works fine on my 2WD, and will work for most t-cases. If you have a high u-joint operating angle because of lift you should get a yoke with longer "ears" to allow more u-joint rotational clearance. Example:

I understand this but since this is a daily I would like to have a shaft made before hand if possible so I can get it done quickly and efficiently And I understand that too. Just saying pick a point close to the end of the project, then measure and submit your order. A good local shop can turn it around in a day. One-half an inch error can make or break the project. Too short you can make it up with a longer slip yoke. Too long and you're screwed unless you have enough extension on the yoke to hack some off. I have to admit I found out the hard way...................

Krusty, you are better off using Fedex than United Package Smashers IMO. They have damaged / ruined / lost a lot of shipments to/from me over the years and aren't getting any better. I quit using them a long time ago.

waa laa? Do you mean voilà? :yes: It's okay changing the shaft from short to long or vice-versa for the speedo gear depending on which housing it's going into. But you must also clock the housing depending on the gear tooth count, and use a gear with the correct tooth count based on your gear ratio and tire size to indicate an accurate MPH on your speedo. Read all about it HERE.