HOrnbrod

Deal with it, your choice. Have another designer beer. :thumbsup:

Sorry you got butthurt cruiser54, but the OP of this thread was Jackrabbit41 in case you didn't notice. But whatever (sic) or whoever, listen to cruiser54. He will lead you down the straight path. Nobody's better fixing Renix problems. :) desbennett004, could you provide the p/n of the flywheel you purchased?

That wasn't directed to the OP or desbennett004. Go back four posts and read it again........... :shake: Too much bull$#!& here. Yep. Just eating an elephant....one bite at a time. :rotfl2:

That wasn't directed to the OP or desbennett004. Go back four posts and read it again........... :shake:

Shift cable adjustment: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Transmission_and_Transfer_Case/Transmission_Automatic_Shifter_Adjustments.htm Be careful when prying off the C-shaped cable adjuster as they break easily. Looks like the cable plastic bushing is worn / messed up too. Replacement: Dorman 14057

Don't decide on any shocks until you see how much lift you get. And if these are anything like the MT springs I got years ago, they will settle about an inch in the first year.

You have an HO, get rid of it. :yes: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41929-installing-a-1996-throttle-body-mounted-map-sensor/

That's not quite true. During the Renix years, the factory installed different transmission harnesses depending on which transmission was standard equipment on the vehicle. This also applied to the engine and alternator harnesses. During the HO years I guess they figured it was more cost effective to use common harnesses no matter which equipment was standard during the OBD1 and then the OBD2 models.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't install the 2.5 timing chain tensioner assembly on the 4.0 engine since They share the same chain and timing cover. It seems like all you would have to do is drill and tap two holes in the 4.0 block on the passenger side of the timing chain matching the chain tensioner mounting hole locations on the 2.5. This could help to increase the rev capabilities of the 4.0, especially on a stroker. And of course keep a slack timing chain tighter longer. I can't see a chain tensioner on the 4.0 being detrimental for any reason. Any know of a good reason(s) why not?

Are you saying the blower motor doesn't come on but you have 12V at it's connector? If so, pull the connector and check the ground wire for continunity. If good, then hot-wire it to test the motor.

On an auto the two connectors that look similar to that one near the dipstick are the NSS and TCU connectors.........

http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=87862&GroupID=1653&History=30587:21770:1336:21770:1351:1389&ModelID=1653&pom=0

Call Tom at Hells Creek and he'll send the correct u-bolts along with the springs. I got mine from him when I swapped in my SUA D44 and they are excellent quality.

That would be good to see. Am always interested in suspension modifications for our trucks.

Great, and thanks for the reply. Those bottom sleeves were tons of fun to press out with my vice w/o damaging the rubber. Can see why you grabbed a ball joint press. Will slap them on when the new upper bushes come in and post back how these shocks perform. :cheers:

They are all OME's with molded-in bushings and they won't come out w/o tearing. Not an option unfortunately .........

This question is directed to those who have installed these shocks on the MJ rear. I had an extra pair of the rear JK Rubicon shocks, so I decided to prepare them for my MJ. Using jerpderp's writeup in the DIY forum here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52091-installing-jk-wrangler-shocks/. I pressed the top bushings and bar pins out, no problem, then ordered a pair of the replacement bushings he recommended. On the bottom bushing/sleeve however, after I pressed out the steel sleeve the hole left in the rubber bushing was only about 3/8" in diameter. I can't see how that will stretch/compress enough to go onto the ~5/8" MJ stud, even though the sleeve I pressed out was 5/8" in dia. Will it go w/o tearing the rubber? I haven't tried it yet since I'm waiting for the top bushings to arrive.

From the site:

Maybe we should stop guessing until the OP tells us what he has. Why can't people simply fill out their signature?

^^ $150 and they don't wrap the leaf springs. No thanks.........

What are you driving?? On an HO, if your fuel gauge pegs to the right when you turn on the IGN, it indicates an open circuit from the + post of the fuel gauge to the fuel sender signal wire in the tank.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/mastercraft-rubicon-bench-seat-review-13503.html

Err, I think I mentioned that above..........

Good plan.

Cool. Didn't know the dead engine was a 93 HO. Assumed it was the original 89 Renix engine.