HOrnbrod

Does the pump come on when you turn the ignition ON?

Variations in tint, or no tint were the only differences between the years AFAIK.

PM sent.

Three JKs with multiple sets of tires / wheels and zero problems with the tire pressure sensors. Ever. You must be doing something wrong.........

Looking good Bo-man. Want to sell it?

Correct, the low side is always the one with the larger dia. tubing.

:agree: Gearing is very important too, but I was referring to engine performance mods.

I don't think stroking a 2.5 would do much good. You would get more bang for the buck with a supercharger. Check out mnkyboy's build thread if you haven't already. He's done some nice work with his. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16226-mnkyboys-89-comanche-project/page-28

Had the same problem with the semi-metallic pads; lots of brake dust and squealing. Tried a set of Raybestos SGD477C ceramic front brake pads. They cost a bit more, but they emit no dust, last forever and are silent. I've had them on for maybe ten years now, and they still look good.

All 2.5L & 4.0L MJ's use a 1365Ω temp sender for the gauge. Don't know about the 2.8L though, don't care either........ :yes:

Nice job and looks great. Would be even nicer if you included a wiring diagram like the below. I just used a standard 4-pin setup for mine since I rarely trailer anything, but I like your setup much better. :cheers: I'll stick this up in the DIY index later..........

if you're still using R12 like I am, you can dump in a couple of cans of R-12A. I did THIS a few months ago and it's still going strong, and I'm an A/C moron.

I did and was tempted, but this is a family forum and Pete would probably get mad at me. :yes:

Damn typos..........

Very cool. My daughter is an ABM at Tinker, recently made O3, and starts on instructor duty pretty soon. No more deployments for awhile. I'm hoping she makes a career out of it. Looks like both you guys are working in the weapons arena. Best wishes to you for the future mate. :cheers:

Usually quick recycling of the clutch like that in the summer is caused by a low refrigerant charge.

Yes you can. Photosuckit "allows" you to do a bulk download of all your pics easily so you can post them up using another host.

Not a dumb question at all. I'm interested in this as well. I know there are aftermarket TPMS systems available using sensors in the valve stem caps, but don't know if there is an aftermarket monitor that will work with Mopar factory "in-tire" sensors.

^^^ This. It will help..........

Does this mean you have graduated from the USAFA? If so, congrats! I know in the Navy they send the cadets out to sea a couple of times to work in their specialty fields before they graduate, but don't know how the USAF works.

About like the below slightly above parallel) seems to provide the best results. Or you can just tie-wrap it in place until you make up a new arm.

Read the below. The bracket you pictured doesn't have anything to do with the rear brake proportioning valve. It looks like a front fender inner support bracket. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

Check the 10A inline TCU fuse under the passenger side dash to verify the TCU is receiving 12V. On a Renix it's in the TCU harness; reach up by the heater box and and pull it down and check the fuse in the fuse holder. Also verify there is 12V IGN SW voltage on the wire. Also there should be a 7.5A TRANS fuse in the fuse block - check it also.

Still no codes?

Do you have an atermarket radio wired in? If so, unplug it (if there still is a plug/connector) and see if it goes away.