HOrnbrod

Just open up the back of the hood (or find / fab a cowl hood) and allow the cowl induction to suck the cooler air in. Hood vents won't help much........ https://youtu.be/irVDERE7CtU

Yes, it's best to vent the hood real estate John. To be honest, I tried two different sets of sets of hood vents, and while they helped somewhat, they were not the ideal solution. The Reflexxion cowl hood I found was the solution and now all is fine. But there's not much chance of finding one of those anymore. So either have a functional steel cowl hood fabbed up (best), or raise the back of the hood up using shims like THESE. Cheap and easy.

Probably the 2-core then. Same one I got.

You're going to like the FF Dynamics radiator. Did you get a 2-core or 3-core?

IF their p/n is correct, and Team Cherokee sends the correct p/n, it's correct. Same ones I have on my 91.

The p/n is for it is 55134514 in the manual. Secondary Rain Molding Seal OEM Jeep Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 1984-1996 I believe you Alex. Is it mislabeled by Team Cherokee? Won't be the first time....... EDIT: Just went and looked at mine - it looks identical. Do you have 97+ doors Alex? They are completely different.

I think this is what you are looking for: http://teamcherokee.com/secondary-rain-molding-seal-oem-jeep-cherokee-wagoneer-comanche-1984-1996/

Yeah, but look what the alternative was......

Done.

I used a pump from a low-mileage 04 TJ from the junkyard. Paid $40, and it's been in there well over ten years now. Most all the Jeep Saginaw TC pumps from 91 and up Jeep models will bolt right in.

The power windows/locks are fed by circuit breaker #28 (25A) in fuse block located inside the kick panel. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Electrical/1997_UP_Fuse_Identification.htm

I don't know about Mean Lemons' cables (I used a set from Jon Kelly) but I imagine the terminal lug sizes are correct for the HO. One end goes over the alt output stud of course; the other end connects to the terminal lug at the front of the PDC. It replaces the black existing 8-AWG cable. I left that cable on for backup - just disconnected it at the connector about in the middle of the cable to eliminate the parallel path and tied it back. I routed the new cable using the same path as the original.

They are more A/C compressor specific than vehicle specific. Most all chain auto parts stores carry the diodes. To see where your compressor grounds, download the 88 MJ Electrical Manual HERE

The diode is a Renix thing to prevent voltage spikes across the compressor coil clutch when energized. You should definitely wire in the diode....

:thumbsup: Looks good.

I've had both ignition coils and a distributor cam sensor go bad w/o throwing codes causing similar symptoms. Unless you see something obvious, like a frayed/crushed distributor low-voltage wire harness where it goes into the dizzy under the cap, there's really no foolproof way to check the coil or cam sensor except by replacement.

If this rig is a full OBD2 97 conversion (is it?), you can't check the CPS output with a meter. If full 97, can you check for codes?

Sounds like the seller is the antique. :yes:

So what you your saying is that I should run only one pump, and cap Off the other? I'll try that next. Yes. That's the way it is in the dual pump XJ tanks - the power and and output hoses are completely segregated.

Correcto. :cheers:

Meh, guess you don't have a fender liner.

I did the 97 XJ fender tank mod a few years ago. Ran the wiring and hoses from both pumps to a convenient spot in the engine bay. The pump motor wires were on connectors, and the unused hose was capped off. So when the windshield pump craps out, you simply swap the power connectors and hoses and you're back in business w/o tearing into the fender well. You have a spare pump - might as well use it as a standby. Of course, this only works once. I already had one die so next time it's back inside the fender to replace both pumps... :rotfl2:

:rotfl2: . The OP says he bought it on Ebay. There was a NOS Mopar blower motor on the same page for about $10 more. Don't buy C.R.A.P.

Did you read the reviews on that POS before you bought it? It's a C.R.A.P. NQR (Not Quite Right) product. https://www.amazon.com/TYC-700126-Replacement-Blower-Assembly/dp/B000VKTUIW

That stroker sounds like it's running lean. Very lean. If you don't have an Air/Fuel gauge installed on the vehicle, (every stroker should), bring it somewhere to test the A/F ratio (mixture) before the pistons melt. I suspect the new ECU is the most likely culprit. I doubt it's the O2 sensor; when they go bad it usually makes the engine run rich.