HOrnbrod

^^ This is only for HO models in which the alternator is regulated by the ECU. I used this alt. No grinding required............

It is a good idea. Probably quit making it because the stock tire size increased.

EDIT: Nevermind - it's gone........ Hope someone here got it.

These factory spare tire safety bars were offered for one year only (1986). It will fit MJ LWB trucks with the stock size spare tire. The slotted holes for the J-bolts are already in the frame, so it's a pure PnP factory bolt-on piece. Might work with SWB trucks but :dunno: . I wanted it but it won't work with my 31" spare...... From the 86 parts manual: 52001643, NUT, 2 52002677, BAR, Mounting 52002676, J-BOLT, 2 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Jeep-Comanche-Spare-tire-mount/132239632612?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Mine's a 91 and has 3 wires. Red, black and green. I assume the green is the ground. Can I just make a new ground connection with that wire? The 91 blower motor connector has only two wires, BLK and GRN. BLK is the ground wire, GRN comes from the blower motor resistor.

:thumbsup:

I normally have a 12 code because I most always disco the battery to work on something electrical before the 50 key strokes occur to shut it off. Surely the Cali inspectors can't be that stupid to fail you for a code 12 because you were working on something electrical and disconnected the battery, or can they? :nuts: Anyhow, the hard reset procedure above clears it.

Cruiser's tips don't apply to HOs........... John, I always have a code 12. Try to clear the residual memory and start from scratch: Clearing error codes and removing residual memory 1. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. 2. Reconnect the Battery Cable 3. Turn Ignition Switch to the "ON" position but DO NOT start the engine 4. Turn Headlight "ON" 5. Turn Headlights "OFF" 6. Turn Ignition Key "OFF" The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

Yep - they got around to dumping me today. Bastids. I've downloaded all my PB pics and will start transferring to a new host when I get around to it. In the meantime, if anyone needs any pics I have posted in past threads I can PM them to you.

Do you have a multimeter? Check the solenoid and see if it's open. A good solenoid will have very little resistance (less than 10 ohms) through the windings. If it's open it's bad.

:rotf: :rotf:

Would be nice if it had the AMC20 rear axle. And definitely grab that V6 and the rest of the drivetrain. Would be nice to transplant into your rig. :thumbsup:

https://emeraldgreen97.wordpress.com/2012/08/02/run-ho-and-oversize-filters-on-your-renix/

New H2O pump or remanufactured?

So what? As long as it's not detrimental to braking performance, and it isn't, no problemo. Better than hacking up a firewall. :thumbsup:

Take the time to fab a spacer and do it right.

Me too. Makes it look like a kludge.

On your axle p/n tag, all that I can read (89530050xx) indicates it's either a 3.07 or 3.54 (likely), and it's a Trac-Lok axle.

Only you know what your time is worth. If you want a tilt column go for it. For me? No, it's not worth it. Too much work for little gain.

I think "custom" ordered rigs were always available. An old gent in town here ordered an 87 2WD longbed Laredo with the 2.5, 5-speed, A/C, and a 4.88-geared D44 tow package from our local Jeep dealer. He used it to haul light custom VW beetles he built all over the south back in the day. The truck sat in his yard for years on blocks when he got too old to drive anymore. I also tried for years to get that D44, but he would never sell it. Came back one day last year to see him and the truck was gone. Found out later he had passed away, and the family scrapped the MJ. What a waste......

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?s=ee39d66e373e148ef73e3b3df29d1e2d&t=1053970

^^ Agree.

Your column, steering box, steering linkage, & front wheels must all be centered. The Pitman arm will be pointing nearly straight back when the gear is centered. Hopefully it's only your steering box or column that's not centered, center them midway between stop-to-stop.

Did you test the "new" steering box on the bench from stop-to-stop manually, count the turns, then center it before installing? What's it doing? Locking up when turning left? Binding?