HOrnbrod

I'm with you. Most everything built after 1985 or so look like clones of each other. To me a Ferrari looks like a Lamborghini looks like a Maserati. I like stuff that you know immediately what it is, like this Shelby 427.

Vegas was in the 120's also. Damn, that's hot.

I got the same #23 code when I moved the IAT to the intake tube. The only thing it did for me was make the mileage worse. Moved it back to the intake, no problems. For the MAP #13 code, check the 5VDC reference voltage at the connector using the 3-pin connector ground. Tolerance is tight for this, + or - .3VDC. Then check the output voltage at idle. There are plenty of write-ups online for this. Never had a TPS code, but I think getting rid of the MAP and IAT codes might clear it up.

I have the same setup, 2WD AW4 w. D44 on my 91. 2WD AW4's have a 27 spline output from the tailpiece. The 27-spline GM long slip yoke works fine for a 2WD AW4. You can cut the snout down as needed, example below. There are plenty of 27-spline slip yokes with varying snout lengths and 1310 u-joint eye configurations on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Driveshaft-Slip-Yoke-Long-27-SP-1310-GM-T350-TH-350-/191992197817?hash=item2cb3a072b9:g:0F8AAOSwNRdX-9Tb&vxp=mtr For the D44 end of the driveshaft I use a u-bolt pinion like this: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Dana-30-35-44-50-Dana-300-T-C1310-Series-Pinion-Yoke-2-4-8091x.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=515&t_pt=7940&t_pn=D%2fS2-4-8091x

^^ This. As with everything else, I prefer a decent set of originals. Be patient, they are always popping up on Ebay and elsewhere.

Congrats to you and your lovely lady FourEyes. And get a haircut. :rotfl2:

Nope. It's pretty on the inside - that's all that matters. :yes:

You likely will be just fine. My wife's 88 is that way except for an XJ prop valve with ZJ guts in it. And you will also realize better overall braking with the larger ports in the ZJ valve. .100" vs .050". The ZJ valve has .078 (5/64") ports - just measured. Better than .050" anyhow. Assume the port assignments for the ZJ valve are as follows:

Thanks - understand how the damn thing works now. It appears the best option will be to junk the MJ distribution valve and replace it with the ZJ disk/disk valve. See how the braking is, them pop out and modify the plunger as needed.

Admiral wannabe. :rotfl2:

Being a Navy Brat I have to say that as a Commander (O-5) or Captain (O-6) your dress uniform cover does have the basic "scrambled eggs". The more elaborate "scrambled eggs" are for Flag Officers (O-7+). Regardless I wouldn't wear that without monetary compensation... That's correct, forgot the USN O-5's did have a weak scrambled egg display, then they get progressively gaudier as they move up. Would be tough to top the USMC Commandant's lid though. :yes:

Yes, I can see that there is no path for pressure out of the lower front port the way the shuttle valve sits during normal operation. I also can't see how the shuttle valve can move at all unless it's a 2-piece sliding unit. Is it? Some guys here are using the lower front port as the rear feed and report they are locking up the rears? :hmm: AAARG, this is confusing and starting to kick my azz. I prefer complicated electricals over brake line valves and lines. Easier to see how they work for me. I have a ZJ disk/disk prop valve in hand - I guess I'll just use that and see what happens. Thanks for your help Eagle.

ah. Shipping probably would be a b*@$£ then. Si.

THIS one would work with our gauges. It's cheap too. Wouldn't be hard to make one either.

North Alabama near Huntsville.

To pull gauge needles w/o damage, use a puller made to do just that. Pulled many gauge needles using one of these back in my Cal Lab days:

^^^ Excellent numbers. Tip on the vacuum system: To maximize engine vacuum from the intake manifold, move the existing vacuum canister behind the front bumper and move it into the engine bay. This shortens the vacuum line, helps prevent leaks, and maximizes the vacuum. I used one from a Porsche 944 and mounted it in the right rear engine bay corner like this: Only one check valve is necessary on the HVAC vacuum line installed close to the intake manifold. No other check valves are needed or wanted on the other vacuum lines (fuel pressure regulator, charcoal canister, etc.).

^^^ Not worried about that. If unsat, I'll pop in the disk/disk ZJ prop valve.

Well, I crawled under and pulled the gas tank skid so I could see how the two rear lines run. I've been meaning to pull the skid anyhow since I sure don't need it. What am I going to do? Rip a hole in the tank going over a speed bump at the mall? :yes: Anyone need a pristine gas tank skid for a longbed? Back on topic. Yes, the line from the distribution block "snout" does go to the left side port of the load sensing valve body (as SBpunk detailed), NOT the T-fitting that goes to the soft line L & R caliper feed lines. Thanks kryptronic for pointing that out. :doh: on my part. So, on to plan B. I will now plug off the block snout port and use the existing lower front port for the rear brake feed line as it is now used. According to Eagle's cutaway, both ports are on the same internal block channel so the output pressures are the same for both ports. Also plugging the snout port will be much easier to get to than plugging the one on the bottom.

Thanks for the info. I may have crossed up the rear lines following them back, especially since I couldn't really see how they were routed along the gas tank since I have a tank skid that blocked the view or even getting my hand up there. Also the LWB fuel lines are routed a bit differently than the SWB according to the manual. I think I have them right, but will change my post if it's not correct. If anyone with a longbed w/o a gas tank skid can verify the correct routing of the fuel line that comes out of the front snout of the MJ distribution block, please do.

Line #1 is correct Fred - thanks. /Edited/

Not yet - awaiting parts.

Revised yet again 19 Jun 07 There are several writeups around concerning the MJ load sensing valve delete procedure. I "borrowed" some members' pictures and procedure steps and wrote this up trying to organize and condense the procedure and eliminate some of the confusion. After looking at several procedures, this one I think is the easiest way to do it. It uses minimal fittings, requires no new brake line or re-flaring, and is the way I'm going to do mine after gathering the parts I need. If anyone sees any errors and/or omissions, please let me know before I post it up in the DIY forum. Thanks to SBpunk and kryptronic for photo contributions. My Current Brake Setup: Front: 96 dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder, stock disk brakes. Rear: Dana 44 with Ford Explorer (Teraflex) disk brakes. Parts Required: Step 1. Remove the lower front brake line from the distribution block (#1 below) and plug the port. Use a 1/2x20 Inverted Flare Plug (Summit Racing, p/n EDD-120500). Step 2. Follow the 3/16" brake line (#2 above) from the distribution valve block front snout port to the T-fitting (#3 below) behind the gas tank. Disconnect the three existing lines at the T-fitting. Image Not Found Step 3. Install a 3/8x24 Gates inverted flare coupler (#4 below - O'Reillys, p/n G60693-0303) connecting the distribution block line #2 to the line that goes to the rear axle soft line. (#5 below). Image Not Found Step 4: Bleed system, check for leaks, and road test. If all goes well, remove the abandoned brake line and load sensing valve. DONE. Note: Depending on your rear brake configuration (drums or disks, brake line condition, etc.) an inline adjustable proportioning valve (Wilwood or similar) may have to be installed in the rear brake supply line to prevent premature rear brake lockup. OR if you have rear disk brakes, replace the MJ distribution block with a proportioning valve from a front and rear disk brake ZJ.

Crap. I bought one too for a spare. The packaging was perfect on it though. We'll see when replacement time comes. But I've had this same Bosch pump on my rig for over ten years now and it's still doing fine.

Nope x2. BTW, in the Navy the gold embroidery on the cap bill is called scrambled eggs. You don't wear them until you make at least O-7 (Vice Admiral). Unfortunately I never made it. Not even close.......... :yes: