HOrnbrod

Yes, unleaded gas was just getting introduced around that time, and the only thing that Stude could run well on w/o pinging was Sunoco 260. The octane rating was nearly 100. 'Course I had the timing bumped up a bit too........

I tried that, or similar. Back when I was calibrating and selling both Renix and HO gauges, I tried to figure a way to mount an HO speedometer into a Renix housing neatly so the Renix guys could eliminate the speedo cable. Hacked, slashed, cut, and pasted a lot of plastics, but never came up with a good practical way to do it. I guess someone who has the right tools and skills for re-forming plastics could do it, but I'm not that someone.

The fuel gauges are very different as well as the housing construction. Renix HO

The wiring is no problem, but gauge mounting points for the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge are completely different for the Renix and HO housings. It would take some creativity to adapt mounting points for these gauges to swap. The other gauges will swap between the two housings however.

I just bought one from Amazon for $42 shipped. It doesn't have the correct master cylinder adapter, but I have plenty of spare caps and hose barb fittings, so I'll make my own. I've been meaning to get one of these for awhile now; thanks for ringing my bell. :cheers:

It was Gene. Paxton supercharger, 10:1 compression ratio and required high octane Sunoco 260 gas. It got almost 9MPG on a good day. :yes: Was a lot of fun but kept me broke.

I'll never forget how happy I was when I got a used Mallory dual point distributor for my 1963 289 R2 Avanti back in the early 70's for Christmas. It didn't improve anything at all but it sure looked impressive in the engine bay with that big red cap. :yes: .

https://www.quadratec.com/products/17015_8000.htm http://www.moparamerica.com/oe-mopar/56001110 Mopar® 56001110 4.8 Amp Circuit Breaker for 84-96 Jeep® Cherokee XJ

Agree, with the red interior that's a winner. Maybe drop it an inch also. :cheers:

Nice story Yella. Dodge Polara's (2DR's of course) used to dominate NASCAR back in the day.

Well, it's good you found it. So the symptoms went away when you pulled the bulb?

OP's original question: My response: "A lot of us (including me) got new springs HERE. Both standard and HD Metric Ton springs are offered. Occasionally there are group buys set up by club members so you can save a few $$." The OP's question is now answered. Your response: This comment had nothing to do with the OPs question. The first part of this statement is false, and the second part is your personal opinion. And the rest that followed had nothing to do with the OPs question. This thread is now locked.

Yeah, that stuff is conductive and could bridge the bulb pins. Not too likely though. I usually just thinly coat the bulb's brass base, not the contacts.

Not the bulb, but a bad socket. If you have a socket that's causing a partial ground loop, that can cause the symptoms you are seeing. When you pull the bulb it usually opens the socket ground loop and changes the symptoms. And while you're doing that you might as well clean out all the dried out grease/crud that you'll find on the socket bases.

Do fix the ground behind the left tail lamp first. I did mine like the below - an 8AWG wire tied to a bumper bole. If no help - Fuse F15 (Park/Tail Lamp) on your 91 interior fuse block is fed by 40A PDC fuse F12 (Head Lamp Dist). Make sure that fuse is correct. Pull it, clean the contacts, then reinsert to see if that helps. If not, then it's time to start pulling bulbs one by one.........

X2 on the headlamp switch and/or connector. Pull it out and check it. Are you possibly running H4 headlamps or any other auxiliary lights w/o relays through the headlamp switch?

According to Joe at General Spring the military wrap spring is based on and rated the same as the MT spring. His words, not mine. "Based on and rated the same as" is not quite equal to "The military wrap springs are the MT springs." The factory MT springs were no military wrap, and direct replacements for the MT springs are not military wrap. The military wrap is an additional option on custom-made springs. Forget it Eagle. It's not worth discussing anymore. Hopefully everyone understood the point as you did.

A good way to check ball joints is to jack up one side at a time just high enough to slide a 2x4 from the side under the tire, and have a helper lift it up and down while you're under there eyeballing and have a hand on both the upper and lower ball joints. Any visible movement and/or clunk feel through your hand the joint should be replaced.

Hope you didn't destroy anything in the process.

Looks like a CJ-10A customized by George Barris on acid.........

Factory 3+2 and 4+1 MJ Metric Ton springs are not military wrap springs. On the link I posted above, the 1700 lb. springs offered are copies of the factory 3+2 MT springs. But they (General Spring) can and will include the military wrap as an option if ordered.

Many years ago (2003):

It was used for the factory tube bumper with a special light kit.

Exactly.