HOrnbrod

Hi Gene. A lot. Born and brought up in New England. Never again..

Correct me if I'm wrong, but reading through your post i gather that you have had this MJ since new and just recently noticed the frame is basically gone? Who sprayed the red spray paint all over it? Sorry man, I don't get it. :dunno:

I remember that thread and wondered what happened to it. Good stuff. I'm still stuck in the old school Bosch standard automotive relay w. Maxi fuses era. :yes:

Got it - thanks.

Like these?

Look in the DIY forum index. That's what it's there for. There are at least three how-tos posted there.

The one I pictured only needs one 12V input to the buss bar; it has provisions for a backup input if needed.

The one I used had one large fused input, with six individually MAXI fused branch circuits. I'll see if I can find it - it was years ago.........

Something like this using screw-down connections and maxi fuses. I used a 6-fuse one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SPD5623-0G-TO-4G-4-POSITION-MAXI-FUSE-INLINE-POWER-DISTRIBUTION-BLOCK-/360801341025

Spade connectors and low amperage. I wouldn't use that fuse box.

The main feed to the HO PDC is directly off the positive battery cable. And it's perfectly fine to run an aux fuse/relay panel from that point. I did miss the "but trying to see if there is a large enough power source that's keyed..." part. Normally aux fuse panels are not ignition switched and the devices tied to the aux fuse panel are controlled by ignition switched relays. Stuff I power from my aux fuse panel are the HI/LOW beam headlamps, the 2nd electric fan controller, power windows, power antenna, power mirrors, fog lamps, etc. Most all of these are controlled by ignition switched relays placed near the devices to minimize wire runs.

I ran a #6 AWG power cable to my aux fuse box on the right fender well from the PDC supply cable lug located at the front of the PDC. This cable is already fused and and there's enough room to get the additional cable in there. There's a cover over the lug you have to pull off to access it.

I could say something, but I won't. :thumbsup: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . On second thought, :yes:

I've been told Marty was canned from Boosted Technologies a long time ago....... THIS is the their site. He's no longer part of the "team".

Not correct. I used the "Jeep" version on my unmolested steering, except for the ZJ V8 tie rod. The washer thickness depends on the tie rod end design. Too thick and the tie rod end pin can't bottom out. Not good. It says this on their web site too.

Top edge of the chassis.

A 4DR crew cab = Yuck. I'm sticking with my MJ until they offer a 2DR pickup. If they ever do........

What's your ECU p/n?

The required thickness of these Delrin spacers will vary depending on the TRE manufacturer. My MOOG TRE had a metal lip on it where the rubber boot retaining ring was located. So I had to shave the "Cure" down to compensate for the thickness of this lip (about 1/8") so the beveled pin would seat all the way down into the drag link hole. Other manufacturers TRE's will be different. The Mopar TRE requires no modification since it's flat. So one size will not fit all applications........

The RFI-specified ECU really helps out preventing radio noise, even on AM. Some trucks had 'em, some didn't. My original ECU was non-RFI, and the radio had terrible engine static...........

An adjustable FPR really helps to help dial in the AFR too. Do you have one installed mnkyboy? I used it to dial in the new 703 injectors I put in recently; runs great. 'Course I don't have a blower either, and from everything I've read, 6psi ain't going to do much on a stroker.

Should be @ 6psi, but if not build or buy a MAP adjuster and crank up the 5V supply a bit until it is.

MAP Voltage Table MAP Adjuster

The Renix ECU (nor the HO OBD1 ECU) is not programmable and can not read the 2-bar MAP voltage output signals. Plus the timing advance needs to be increased, fuel pressure increased, and larger injectors are needed with a turbo setup. Most use an aftermarket piggyback controller like a Unichip or Megasquirt. There are several forums around to read up on the basics, like: http://msruns.com/ http://www.msefi.com/ http://www.msextra.com/

You can shift it manually. When manually shifting the AW4 you will have the 1-2-3-D positions. W/o the TCU inputs you will get 1st gear in both the 1 and 2 positions (no 2nd gear), 3rd gear only in 3 position, and O/D in the D position. That would be maximum suckage in stop-and-go traffic. And the shift linkage be it a floor of column shifter isn't built for all that constant movement. The TCU with all the inputs I mentioned previously does all this automatically, up shifting and down shifting whether accelerating or slowing down.