HOrnbrod

I replaced the stock cables with new; they were plenty long enough. To connect to the ebrake lever, I used a slotted Ford clevis.

Mine was pretty easy when I swapped in the D44 in. The old D35 c-clip axle already had a Teraflex Ford Explorer disk brake kit on it, so all I had to do was purchase new D44 backing plates and preload spacers from Teraflex to convert it. About $100 at the time. As I recall the brake lines were all fine, just needed some minor re-bending. Just put a new NOS Mopar Performance cover on it too.

See is any of THESE will work.

Nope. The brightwork's still shiny and as new, just like my mind James. I don't usually have to ask how to fix things either, but when I do someone tells me how to fix it and it works, I never forget it. Unlike you James. :~) Good to hear from you brother! Where you been? Working in Guam?

Carnuck, why are you using a four year old "For Sale" ad in your signature? Is this vehicle still for sale? If so, move it to the Classified forum where it belongs.

This thread is about MJs, not full size Jeeps or YJs. And seeing one 20 transplanted into a SWB MJ really proves nothing. " Metric Tonne models '86 and '87 had Model 20 optioned rear diff" Do not start putting out bum dope again like the above or your posts will be deleted.

Factory Sport Bar

It was. Unfortunately that doesn't look like a factory roll bar though.

Which MJ did you install the power antenna in? The 91?

Wrong. No domestic 87 MJ models were equipped from the factory with AMC 20 rear axles. Possibly some export models got the leftover AMC20 axles but it's not listed as an option in the parts manuals. For 87 the only upgrade axle option for the XJ/MJ models was the D44 in various flavors.

^^ This. Because they are close, I've been to Rusty's a couple of times to pick up new factory JKU take-off parts from the modified Wranglers they build. Those are the only parts I'd buy from Rustys because they didn't manufacture them.

When I put in my power antenna, the "L" bracket (#9) came with the NOS unit I bought. It's an an easy install and improved reception quite a bit. One thing you have to verify if you install one is to make sure the radio you use has the ANT ground output pin - a lot of them don't. It sends a momentary ground signal to the antenna relay coil to raise and lower the mast when turning the radio on and off.

Even though I have a D44, tops on the coolness factor for me because of it's rarity has always been the AMC-20 rear axle. Only a very few of the 86 MJ models got them. It's a tough axle too.

Don't be too sure: http://www.npr.org/2017/08/24/545771819/jeep-why-this-american-icon-could-soon-be-part-of-a-chinese-company

An XJ gas tank skid won't fit an MJ. Different tank size/shape, different mounting, different mounting points, apples and oranges. Plus the LWB and SWB MJs use different skids.

The 91-92 cluster will not work. The housing, most of the gauges, and wiring harnesses are completely different. You need the 86-90 cluster with the blue case.

Did you speak to Joe? He's the main man there...

All those things Eagle you say are mostly true, but you are living in the past. The majority of the buying public today doesn't give a damn about any of it, unfortunately. FCA doesn't either; they care only about marketing and are doing a hell of a good job at it. They will sell these trucks as fast as they can turn them out whether we like them or not. You can't change progress, you adapt. If they eventually do market a 2-door pickup, I'll be all over it.

^^ That's nice. I would buy that. Just what I want...

Agree, the stock socket using the push/twist to lock-in bulbs provides the most secure connection. The contacts should be shiny clean and lubricated with conductive (not dielectric) grease. Most folks pack dielectric non-conductive grease in the sockets and then wonder why the bulbs are sporadic or don't work at all. Installing the headlamp relay harness is mandatory to protect the inadequate and aged factory wiring harness if using sealed beams, and especially if using halogens because of the increased amp draw. I run LED headlamps and still use the a relay harness even with the decreased amp draw over sealed beams. The stock wiring was under engineered when new, and as old as our rigs are with oxidation and corrosion at every harness pinned connection, impedance is a lot worse 25+ years later. Using an aux relay harness is cheap insurance to prevent overheating and possible wire fires.

A mere "I can't afford right now" reply would have been sufficient. (insert smiley) Good luck in your next twenty productive years youngster as I have twenty years on you. Sincerely, I really hope you achieve your financial and life goals mate. I have, and it's a good feeling to know all is well. From what I've seen, I admire your work, it's outstanding. Just try to lighten up a bit. Your work speaks for itself, no need to be on the offensive all the time.

Hmmm, how did I do that? Fixed now - I think. Barf for both of them anyhow.

I'll sell you a NOS pair of MJ tail lamps in any flavor you want for a mere $900. Shipping included.

Not for me - barf. I so want a 2-DR JL pickup, but it'll probably never happen. This thing is about as far away from the original Scrambler as you can get. At least they didn't name it Comanche.....