HOrnbrod

I know how the math comes out Nori. Maybe my and Adam's tachs are off. I know my speedo checks out....... From Gojeep's site: RPM's at 65 MPH/105 KPH w/ 4.10:1 axle gears running 31's: 2,166 RPM

I think about that every time I drive my 2015 JKU Adam. I have the same setup in my MJ as you do except there's no transfer case (2WD): AW4 with the 4th speed O/D gear ratio of .75, 31's and 4.10 final drive ratio. I'm also churning 2700RPM @ 70MPH. And yes, the speedo gear is correct. The JKU has a 5-speed Benz W5A580 A/T with an O/D gear ratio of .83, 31" dia. tires and it turns 2350RPM @ 70MPH. I think that's ideal. The only difference is the JK's final drive ratio of 3.73. If I ever regear it'll be with 3.73 gears.

No physical valve; it's just a small orifice on the inner end of the plastic elbow. And yes, the vacuum line could be clogged (or broken) too causing loss of vacuum to the valve cover. EDIT: Looking at your picture, it appears that the factory CCV setup on your valve cover has been modified. I don't know what's on there now, maybe someone else can ID the plumbing. I'm not a Renix expert, but I'd replace all that vacuum stuff hooked to the valve cover with factory parts.

Sounds like the CCV valve is clogged. Disconnect the vacuum line and carefully pull out the rear CCV valve from the grommet. The small orifice at the bottom of the valve is probably clogged causing blow-by into the air filter housing. Clear the hole so you can blow through it if you can, or replace the valve. Hopefully that will cure the blow-by. What are you driving BTW??

It did.

8.25 is the same as the D35 c-clip.

You might get a little bump steer with a 61* toe-in.

Toe Inches to Degrees Calculator Also, even a small 2-1/2' lift will pull your front axle off-center a bit. To check, with wheels pointed directly straight and on a level surface, measure the distances from the inner wheel rim to the outer frame rail at the same point on both sides. If over 1/2" or so (mine was 3/4") difference between the measurements, an adjustable track bar should be installed to center the axle.

Had this in the "archives"........

Touché. Excellent point regarding keeping the vehicle's preventative maintenance procedures up-to-date no matter what you're using for a DD.

Did you forget to take your meds Dirty?

Answered my own question with a little searching: https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/19295-wj-upper-control-arms-installed/ I'd forgotten this one. Appears to be a worthwhile mod.....

Adjustable upper and lower control arms for a mostly street MJ with under 3" of lift is a waste of money IMO. The factory WJ lowers (and uppers) are bushed a whole better than most of the adjustables, provide better handling, and make it a whole lot easier to set caster. What I noticed most when I swapped in the WJ LCAs was the handling improvement. I credit that to their enclosed boxed design that provides increased rigidity and the use of larger bushings. At the same time I did the WJ LCA swap I also replaced the UCAs and axle bushings with stock XJ new parts. But I think the factory WJ uppers would also be a good upgrade over the non-boxed open design of the stock MJ/XJ UCAs for the same reasons as the LCAs. For those that have swapped in the WJ UCAs and bushings - is it worthwhile?

Agree, it's $$ well spent at this point. Your shop seems to be staffed with fairly knowledgeable techs, which is unusual these days. Once they get it right; steering and driving the way you want, invest in an angle finder and other common tools and learn to do all the alignment checks in your driveway like toe, caster, steering wheel centering, axle centering, etc. Once you establish accurate baseline settings, there should be no need to ever go to an alignment shop again. Even if you change the lift, install larger tires, change the steering ratio with a quicker box, or anything else that could affect steering and alignment, you can reset back to your original baseline settings yourself. THIS is a good site for DIY alignments. And there are several more online.

Huh? Are you asking what's under your own truck?

Ain't nuthin' you can do about that Frank daily driving year round in your neck of the woods. If you have a good basic mechanical skill set an MJ can be daily driven indefinitely, especially if it's a HO. I daily drove my 91 for five years when I returned from my last overseas assignment until I retired, an 80 mile daily commute. Never had a major problem. A stock HO MJ is basically a simple uncomplicated and conventional vehicle that's not too difficult to keep going. And HO repair parts are for the most part still readily available when needed. I would NOT recommend daily driving a Renix MJ w/o a reliable backup mainly because it's a unique, weird, one-of-a-kind ignition system that uses a lot of parts that can be tough to find quickly. And the learning curve to become proficient repairing this system takes longer to master, especially for a youngster, because it's so unconventional.

Caster will vary depending if you are 4WD or not, and how much lift you have. The greater your caster angle is, the worse your front pinion angle becomes causing twitchy steering. I'm 2WD so no worries, and I set my caster right around 5*, both sides equal and I'm good. If I were 4WD with a 2.5"-3" lift, I'd do maybe 3* for caster for my lift. Your L & R sides are close to equal for your caster which is a good thing. If not equal, the vehicle will pull to one side and probably eat the tires up. My shims came out to the same thickness on both sides for a 5* caster angle. Steering is tight and solid. After your guys get it set up and it drives and steers well, verify the caster and toe with and angle finder and string measurements for toe. That way you can check periodically down the road if you change tires and or lift.

If you have zero existing shims and a slight lift, 6 x 1/16" shims won't be enough for a ~5*-7* caster angle. I needed maybe twice that. You may have to make a couple of thicker shims or buy two packs. You can insert the shims yourself and measure with an angle finder from the top of the upper ball joint flat to get the caster angle in the ballpark.

You can fab the LCA shims pretty easily:

Might, but not for long. Dorman (ugh!) sells a package with several cable bushings. Anyone try one of those?

Anyone ever locate a replacement bushing for the transmission end of the gear shift cable? Mine's getting pretty sloppy.

I removed them since the e-brake has return springs for the brake shoes inside the disk brake hat. Works fine returning the cables on mine.

Ejection seats?

Let me know when they are available.

A "no start" flow chart for a Renix? That would require about 45 pages Pete.