HOrnbrod

Robert, the seller in Poland, made up a video for the install of the XJ/MJ rings.

There are already some lift topics there. Under "Suspension".

One of the local gear guys who does regearing for most of the stock car racers in the area and has the best rep mentioned that thick gear sets have a tendency to whine. Same guy says if you can't get factory thick gear sets (Dana doesn't make them for a D44 in 4.10), Yukon gears are the next best option. Anyhow, the whine is gone since I changed the gear oil and I'm happy. Maybe any heavier 85W-140 or so gear oil might have done the same thing. Who knows?

I don't care what you call it; DMV, MOT, whatever, they are all the same with few exceptions. They go out of their way to recruit the surliest, nastiest people they can find with IQs of less than 50. I've never had a good experience at the DMV.

That's not the topic of this post. The thick Lucas non-synthetic 85W-140 diff oil cured the diff whine. And yes, Lucas makes great products. I'd use their non-syn gear oil over any other, including the ridiculously expensive Royal Purple, Red Line, and the others. Been using Lucas products for fifty years.

I don't use synthetic anything in anything Dirty, be it motorcycles, lawn mowers, chain saws, anything. It's not the cost; I just think a quality dino product does a better job. As long as it's changed when the mfg. recommends (or earlier) regularly. The cheap diff oil was just for break-in. Maybe I'm wrong, but I've never had a problem with dino lubrication ever.

Please do.

Ever since changing the gear ratio on my Dana 44 rear diff a couple of years ago from 3.55 to 4.10, the gears whine when going around 35-55 MPH with just enough throttle to maintain that speed. Not a loud whine, just enough to be annoying. When accelerating or decelerating in this range the whine disappears. At speeds above or below 35-55 there was also no whine. After talking to experienced gearheads who change diff gears for a living, I attributed it to after market gears (Yukon) and the fact I was using "thick" gears so I could retain the old Trac-lok carrier. Recently I changed the diff cover, and when refilling the diff, I used non-synthetic HD Lucas 85W-140 diff oil with friction modifier for the Trac-lok instead of the el-cheapo break-in no-name 75W-90 oil with friction modifier that was in there before. The whine is now gone, nada, ancient history. I'm happy the whine is gone, but can't help wondering why. I guess because of the higher weight gear oil?

Hoping and praying that none of our esteemed members especially in northern California have been affected badly by the fires. I have some friends who live in Santa Rosa who lost everything materially. Thankfully the family is safe and doing as well as they can. Mother Nature has been cruel these last couple of months....

Back in the late 80's in the Philippines, I used a government XJ with locking hubs frequently for travel to the mountain top transmitter sites. The motor pool guy said the Warn kits cost over $800 back then. No wonder not many were sold.

Google "lifting a Jeep 101" or similar. Tons of pages abound, all offering varying advice and basic how-to's. Everything's there, everyone has different preferences for parts, everyone has a different budget, etc. ad nauseum. There's no need to reinvent the wheel here. I don't answer posts from someone asking questions when it's obvious they are clueless and have done zero research. Doing basic searching and reading through the various posts I mentioned above gives newbies some introduction to lift basics and allows them to ask semi-informed questions, develop a plan, choose parts options, then proceed. And if there are questions along the way, they will receive all the do's and don'ts they can handle from the many experienced members here.

Excellent, and thanks. I remember the 96 and 97 and up MAP sensor voltage output tables i had were of the same polarity and used a 5VDC reference, but differed somewhat on voltage to the ECU with equal vacuum applications over the range. Obviously the Renix computer doesn't really care. I'll know immediately if my OBD1 ECU likes it if it doesn't throw a code. When my 96 MAP dies, I'll try a later model sensor. Mfg. by Mopar of course.

Nice unspoiled 92 beauty. Don't see them like this often. The only flaw is the missing body side molding on the right door.

Good to know. Did you happen to run across the specs for the 96 MAP and the 97 and up later ones for comparision purposes? I had them at one time; gone now. Would be nice if I could use the more common 97 and up MAP instead of the unique one-off 96.

96 or 96+ MAP? The 96 throttle body mounted MAP (p/n 56028303) is a unique one-year part in that it's outputs are nearly identical to the Renix and OBD1 MJ firewall mounted MAPs. The 97 and up MAP outputs are pure OBD2 and much different. EDIT: I expanded your pic of the MAP sensor and it looks like a 97 and up p/n, 56029405. I'm surprised it even plays with the Renix system. I'll have to dig up the MAP sensor output tables again and compare....

He visits occasionally Mike. Do some back channel with him. I'm sure he'd like to hear from you. The trim rings are available on Ebay HERE from a seller in Poland. Good guy and drives a Cherokee XJ 2.5TD diesel.

I remember someone posted a couple of years ago (Incommando maybe?) a pic of a CRAP unit bearing that separated while driving after a couple of months. As I recall it screwed up the suspension pretty good, but could have been a lot worse. You can buy stuff like a Hurst shifter, Wicked Flow muffler, Pioneer Sub pushing twin 10" subs and a lot of speakers, etc etc. and cheap out on suspension / steering components. That don't make no sense to me mate.........

Will the CJ 2-piece axles fit with spacers? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-20-1-PIECE-AXLE-KIT-COMPLETE-SHAFTS-BEARINGS-SEALS-STUDS-LATE-/252048910935?hash=item3aaf492a57:g:6DAAAOSwImRYbQFW&vxp=mtr

No one rebuilds stuff anymore. Back in the day you could purchase a rebuild kit usually provided by the original manufacturer for about everything; master cylinders and slaves, wheel cylinders, starters, alternators, generators, carbs, about everything that could be rebuilt w/o specialized tools by a competent DIY guy. These rebuild kits are basically NLA now, and if you can find one it's a C.R.A.P. that may or may not work. Sometimes it cheaper just buying a new C.R.A.P. because the originals are NLA. I guess that's progress........

Not as much as in central Alabama. Automotive yard art is considered a sign of wealth down there.

Most likely druggies. Bastids will break in a car at the local Walmart lot.... Is that your hand?

A guy on the Strokers forum used to make them...

1/8" parallel drift punch.