metrictonner

I quit buying parts on Ebay a looooooooooong time ago. I bought a Vista-pro at Rockauto for $102 back in 2011. It is plastic/aluminum for the heavyduty cooling system. No problems yet.

Ditto new radiator. 25+ years on original radiator means restoration not repair. A shiny new aluminum jobbie did the trick for me after a couple years of playing around with EVERYthing else.

ahhhhh. someone who actually works off of a parts manual.

Flexplate is the flywheel for an auto trans. If you mean spacer plate and manual trans there is a way a rock or something could have gotten up into the bell housing through the bell housing vent. Auto trans bell housing may have a vent too but I'm not familiar with auto trans setup. The inside of the bell housing is generally so covered with oily gunk that I doubt anything rolling around inside it would make much noise.

Jeep J0758977 Dorman 603-300 with cap. I'm waiting for delivery on this from Advance Auto $34 without discount. $29 with...and no shipping charges with big bucks purchase. Amazon had it for $22 but Amazon is like NAPA, they figure out some way to jack the price up higher than anyone else. If the cap on this thing is like the replacement Dorman cap I bought recently it will come close to hitting the hood...it's too tall. Had to give a little bend to the bracket to clear. The inside gasket depth is OEM but outside the thing is just too tall. You guys really need to download the Jeep parts book PDF then Google by Jeep part number to find these things correctly. Find the book by Googling Jeep Manuals. I found the 88 parts manual and the Renix manual at the same place. No...it was last year and I don't remember where. I got the idea to look from someone on this blog.

Yea, Yea, Hot Renix. Mine ran hot too until I replaced the radiator. Now it runs cool like newl. Before the radiator I replaced the fan (reverse rotation), thermostat, electric fan relay and sensor, serpentine, the hoses, the computer sensor, the gauge sensor, flush and fill...what a waste. Yep...try getting rid of your 25 year old radiator and save some money.

Yea, there are all sorts of leaks that can appear to be the rear main seal. The one that finally cured mine was replacing the clutch line from the master cylinder to the bell housing. The rubber part was bad. DOT3 can do a good job of cleaning the junk down there and making it appear to be oil. Try a new oil pan filler plug gasket too. These are special metal washers that never get replaced.

I fixed my noisy pump simply by draining, refilling and driving a couple of times. There is a flush and fill method but this worked for me. I used a little drill operated transfer pump to do the drain rather then disconnect anything.

Every electrical connection problem; which means sensor problems, electrical device problems (fuel pump, fuel injectors, dash upshift lights etc), ignition problems, were traced to the c201, c202 connector female contacts opening up. I figured this out after listening to everyone's grounding, connection cleaning, c101, and new parts recommendations for my problems and getting absolutely NOWHERE. After 25 years that tight U-turn that the wiring harnesses makes at the ECU opens up just about every female contact with the added bonus of now there is room for corrosion and dirt to add to make an intermittant open connection perminent. Tight contacts neither get corroded or dirty at point of contact. Clean all you want but if the male and female contacts in the connectors aren't mechanically rubbing against each other you have an open circuit. It may wiggle around awhile and give you an intermittant problem and maybe even appear to dissapear for a while with a new connector on a new part but 25 years of wear and tear on the connectors will show up eventually as an open circuit. Dielectric grease just jams itself into the opening and INSULATES folks, just like corrosion and dirt IT MAKES AN OPEN CIRCUIT PERMINENTLY OPEN. No matter what that idiot on AutoWeek told you: THROW AWAY YOUR DIELECTRIC GREASE. Same thing with the vacuum connections. After 25 years they open up too. But in this case, the plastic fittings, hoses, elbows all need to be sealed with RTV.

I think I've tried everything and everything leaks. One piecers leak the least, just don't be afraid to add some RTV up front at the joints.

88 4.0 15-16 city? Sounds normal to me. The computer contols this based on sensor readings. Screwing around with things doesn't do a thing. A consistently cold water temp signal will cause a rich mixture. Check out your block water temperature sensor.

Sounds like old opened up c201 c202 connector contacts, the ones that go into the ECU. I had this problem, thought it was the ECU itself. Ended up dissassembling the connectors and re-crimping those female contacts, something like 74 of them. You can test for this problem by removing the ECU from its mount and letting it hang by the connectors against the transmission tunnel. Diddling with the wires going into the connectors while trying to start or running will spot loose contacts. Fixed a lot of problems this way.

I use ordinary o-rings from a hardware store they seem to be fuel impervious. In the old days there was a kit o-ring stuffer but it is not so hard to put the rings in manually. I have had no problem with leaks doing it this way. I'd give you the ring dimensions but I don't remember which ones I ended up using from the boat load I started with but there is a common size that is a perfect fit. Just remember how they came out and check to see that they all came out when you pull out the fuel line. A curved needle pick will help you push and pull the rings into place.

The new Bosch is probably the worst when it comes to needing to booger. Nothing matches.

Mine came with a dealer installed Duraliner which is heavy duty, easily removeable, cover the top sides and tailgate and is pretty nice overall. You might check junk yards for an MJ with this option. The only thing bad about it is that you have to cut the liner for access to the bed hook loops if you need them.

Mine started doing the 2000 rpm thing after I changed the air filter a few months ago. I've been trying to hunt down the problem too although I noticed I now have no lifter ticking anymore, hot or cold, so I'm really not interested in doing anything until my oil pressure starts suffering. The thing is the computer is sending a default signal to the IAS for some reason. A simple check with a RENIX diagnosis thingie would probably pinpoint the problem. The default could be due to a bad MAP (vacuum), bad MAT (temperature), bad TPS (pre-vacuum guess), or a bad IAS (closed throttle plate bypass). And as the Renix manual states: not only check the sensor but check the connections too. Too much when a simple diagnosis meter will tell all. Renix also says the the meter is used to set the TPS properly too, no matter what formula you may use.

There is no OEM for this app. Never has been never will be. EVERYHING you try will have to be boogered around with to get it to work and then no matter what you do it will be noisier than the original. The rubber is too hard, the pump length doesn't match the hanger, the electrics are different, the strainer sock is a pure rig, the size makes it impossible to reuse the OEM rubber and in my case the Carter I got didn't have the correct rubber isolation spacers supplied. When I tried the Airtech it was identical to the Carter. I am now back to the original AMC Bosch. 26 years old but at least it works...quietly, for a while anyway. That seating nipple on the bottom of the return line is important for quietness though. Fish around for it if it came off while pulling the hanger through the access hole. Don't loose it. Same with the strainer sock. The OEM is brass, not cheap plastic, and can be reversed flushed and reused it it will fit on the intake end of the pump you decide to buy.

Sounds like "old car" electrical problems. When you replaced the ECU did you by any chance let it dangle on the side of the transmission hump while you tried to start up or did you do a complete reinstallation before you tried to start it up? As the electrical connectors age the female contacts inside them open up and have to be reformed (crimped) periodically. You can generally discover this by diddling with the harness wires running into the 201 and 202 connectors of the ECU while you crank your engine or if it starts, after it is running. If strange things happen you have loose, open contacts inside the connectors. The 201 and 202 connectors are especially vulnerable because of the sharp angle they make when installed. They do not age very well. But, you know, after 20 or 25 years all of the electrical connectors will tend to open up. That is why the Renix manual makes special notes to not only check the parts but check the connections, especially to the ECU.

I agree, you're getting a hot failure somewhere. If you haven't cleaned your throttle body recently then your idle air stepper motor might be getting stuck closed in the warm gunk. The motor can be ruined by forcing it to open while stuck. Non-Renix models refer to this as an IAC. Chysler parts refer to it as idle air bypass.

Rear axle frame bumpers tend to rust out and disappear. 4.0l Renix manifold air temperature sensors are no longer being made. front, transfercase and fuel tank factory skid plates and mounting bolts. front frame tow hooks. front bumper vacuum jug.

My truck might be doing the same thing as yours. I haven't fixed anything yet but I've found that doing short cranking cycles instead of one long 30 second one fires mine up on the second or third cycle. I agree that pumping the throttle shouldn't do anything. It might indicate, however, that your TPS voltages need to be checked. Good luck.

4.0 Renix distributor has an odd number of drive gear teeth and cannot be replaced in any old postion. I've bought new (remanufactured) distributors that had the pickup replaced and power checked but not the timing. It the rotor doesn't match the position EXACTLY to before you pulled the distributor it is because the drive gear is 180 degrees off. Punch out the mounting pin, rotate the gear 180 and repin (with flares so it won't come out in the engine). You can start the engine with a distributor whose timing is off but it won't rev without puking up motor parts out your tailpipe.

Good luck finding this year paint anywhere, not to mention that paint ages away from stock color. I got an excellent match of 88 Colorado Red with Rustoleum Regal Red for instance. I ended up doing a cap color match with several different reds, then a spot body match. Don't judge until the paint dries.

Odyssey is right. I'll repeat the three word advice I took a few years ago from someone after years of diddling around and thinking I had to live with it: replace your radiator. It worked for me.

fuel pump: A way to check your relays is rotate them one position. They are all the same. Check your battery charge. The starter could be taking all the power from a low charge battery. coil: Your C201 a C202 plug contacts could be old and in need of reforming. Cleaning these things just makes matters worse unless you have access to Electrolube.