metrictonner

There are TWO plugs on the BA: drain and fill. Drain is above the cross member (rear engine mount), fill is on the right side of the tranny.

Luk is OEM. I found only their fluid lines were properly formed and fitted. Some manufacturers I've tried have lines that don't stick through the bell housing access hole properly. Some have bogus quick disconnect fittings. The most bizzar was the Duralast from Autozone. Eventhough the unit itself was like everyone elses the lines had to be replaced with the old ones (if you are up to that).

Slam it? People actually slam their MJs? Like the hood you set the thing in place then press down (for the hood)/in (for the tailgate) on each front (hood)/top (tailgate) corner until it clicks closed.

read on

OOPs, check that. Its the gas tank vapors that are venturied into the intake manifold. The crankcase breather is dumped on the manifold side of the air filter. Oh well, today was Ferrari day. You probably have blow by problems if your crankcase ouput exceeds your intake manifold input. If you are not getting billowing smoke out the tail pipe then you are suffering from dreaded RING GAP ALIGNMENT. Either that or bad valve seals. The solution to the first is pop the head, punch the pistons, stagger the ring gaps, hone the cylinder walls and put the whole thing back together. The other is just a simple valve seal replacement.

Change yer fluid...hardware store bar stock for the plug.

You can get a new one already attached to the necessary hoses. When the core pops its cork its nice to have this thing working to prevent unloading the coolant in you MJ...especially when you are out in the middle of nowhere.

Since they don't make OEM injectors any more try visiting a local injector rebuild shop and get yours rebuilt.

Some manufacturers actually sell unbalanced brake drums that can cause rear axle vibration. When you brake with these turkeys it vibrates more.

Have you tried depressing the clutch and shifting the tranny into neutral before you yank on the transfer case lever?

Actually the front hose coming off of the valve cover is THE crankcase breather. The part of the airbox that is attached to the throttle body intake hose is a venturi that is supposed to suck this crankcase nastyness back into the intake manifold for emission recirculation burning. This is why we periodically clean our throttle bodies. Your venturi sounds like it is clogged up or you are getting so much BLOW BY (yes indeed...ring job) that this recirculation system can't handle it. Burning much oil between changes? If so, you probably need a ring job, which is unusual for the 4.0. Check your air box top workings.

The bolt is probably somewhere on the clutch pressure plate housing. You can hand crank your engine with the tranny in neutral with a socket on the front crank damper nut either way until you hear the bolt drop. Peeling back the spacer plate at the bottom of the bell housing is probably the best way to get at it. Your real problem is problably a MAP vacuum tube leak.

Tickity, tick. Don't forget to check your EGR tube nuts. Those things loosen up over the years at both ends. Only then would I replace the manifold gasket using Permatex spray copper. And while the manifold was hanging I would refinish the EGR tube seats.

Actually they are\were mylar gaskets, that's right: thin little clear plastic thingies, in those FLAME ARRESTORS. They are designed to dissappear if you ever had a severe flame induced backfire and their absence lets your AMC mechanic diagnose your problem better. They are part of the valve cover package...no separate part number. You want new gaskets? You buy the whole valve cover...somewhere. But since there are no more new valve covers or AMC mechanics anything that will make the arrestor covers tight in their mountings will do.

There is a load of bolts that bolt the spacer plate to the bell housing. The spacer plate goes between the flywheel and the engine. ANY bolt on the edge of the bell housing must be removed. You yank on that unbolted spacer plate, it is soft aluminum, you'll bend it into the flywheel ring gear. The engine mounting bolts bolt from rear to front. The spacer plate bolts bolt from front to rear. Good luck.

If your PART-TIME dash light doesn't come on the front axle dog fork isn't shifting. Either that front axle slider box is not getting differential oil to lube the dog gear so it can slide or the front axle vacuum motor needs to be replaced. Take the cover off and see what's up. The whole thing isn't hard or expensive to overhaul. Just buy a vacuum motor kit and make sure you put the dog fork tangs in the dog gear grooves when you bolt the thing back together.

I think you can get away from bench bleeding if you pump enough fluid through the master cylinder. Try Dormand Speed bleeder fittings and just pump away (refilling the master cylinder as necessary). You will also purge your entire brake lines of old nasty fluid. Dormand says they only go on the front, But I use them front and rear with excellent results. If the proportioner locks up a line just switch to the opposite side, then go back to the other side. Start at right rear, left rear, right front, left front. A do it yourself operation with no constant bleed line checking with the Dormands. Dormands are made in China so occationally a poorly machined bleeder will not seat in the caliper or wheel cylinder and you'll have to replace it or hand burnish it to get it to seal properly.

Stock braking sucks? Since when? A 25 year old vehicle generally needs new parts. There is more to the brake system than master cylinder and booster. There is height sensor, proportioning valve, wheel cylinders, shoes, pads, calipers, rusted out brake lines, leaky fittings and watered down, rusty DOT 3...all long before any upgrade.

I can't imagine what needs to be aligned on a top loader like the BA. You might try pulling the shifter and reinserting it. Did you check the lube level? Actually it sounds like you dropped something down the shifter hole when you dropped the tranny. Get a magnetic probe and fish around for boot screws and such where the shifter goes.

Starter motor cranking is NOT the way to either prime the oil pump or check for oil pressure. Yank the distributor and stick a BIG flat bladed screw driver shank down the distributor hole attached to an electric drill and drill away with the key on. You might get away with desludging your engine innards with kerosene diluted engine oil. Having never tried this myself you might find some recommendations on the internet particularly U-Tube.

In 88 the only standard mirrors were drivers side: remote control on Laredo longbed, manual on everything else. All rear bumpers were optional except Eliminator shortbed's silver step.

Clutch fluid is bake fluid: DOT 3. COLORLESS unless its soaked up lots of water and the resultant rust. Drain and refill while you are bleeding the slave.

I've tried everything and always come back to the OEM recommended copper core Champions. RC9YC.

Low oil pressure? Don't forget the HO oil pump fix. I changed mine and now have pressure to spare with 10w30 oil winter and summer with no lifter clacking, piston slapping or bearing knocking.

My favorite are the instructions on how to install a new ring gear. Clutch problems are generally clutch plate worn out problems. Unless the flywheel and\or pressure plate show flutter pattern you shouldn't have to touch either (except maybe some cleaning). Then I would buy new LUK stuff and forget the machining. I find LUK is the only one that knows the correct slave line shapes and fittings and the only one with proper clutch plate impregnation for easy break-in. Why anything is machined anymore is beyond me. Brake drums, brake disks, flywheels, brake cylinders, yet no one will get a fuel injector rebuilt. It's just a waste.