metrictonner

Just forgot to say when putting things back together torque them and the two other engine bolts up BEFORE you raise the transmission on the rear engine mounts.

Don't be afraid to lower the transmission to get at the E-torx bolts. You have to anyway to get the bellhousing to clear the body transmission tunnel. The front engine mount is in the middle of the engine and will hold the engine at an angle without support without breaking anything. The only problem is not having your MJ jacked up high enough so that the angle of the dangle will clear everything when you pull the tranny out. Don't go overboard with the angle but clearing the transmission tunnel gives you plenty of room to get at those bolts. Good luck.

Make sure your MAP is plugged in, vacuum and electric.

I did some testing of a MAT sensor for a company that thought it had a replacement for the no longer produced 4.0 Renix MAT. Appearently their MAT was telling the computer that the air flow was too cold all the time. This caused really bad gas mileage and backfiring periodicly for what seemed no reason. I got the feeling that you could tell the ECU to cause the injectors to really dump fuel to the point of backfiring if you really wanted. So if your problem is based on bad gas mileage and your temperature gauge is not reading too low after warmup you might check your airbox heat diverter air temp sensor or MAT.

Engine coolant temp primarily affects gas milage. Sticker milage for the 4.0 renix is 18-23 MPG with 225/75/15 tires. Lower gauge temp until milage varies significantly from sticker. Lower gauge temps with thermostats that come in three temps: 160, 180, 195. If changing the thermostat doesn't lower temp then you have an old radiator. Replace your radiator and use a proper thermostat to bring MPG back up to spec. It is highly unlikely that a 4.0 renix is running hot unless it actually boils over or the water pump locks up lunching the serpentine belt. The water pump is constantly circulating coolant through the coolant bottle so the bottle cap is the pressure release valve. If your cap is old and gummed up the bottle should blow at near boil over. If you have removed the heater core vacuum diverter your heater core could blow emptying the coolant on your nice new carpet until you stop the engine. Thats about 3 gallons out in the middle of nowhere or on some freeway access ramp.

If you are talking about a 4.0 AMC the first time removal is a project. I used a heavy 3 inch paint scraper and a ball peen hammer starting at the back right and going forward. Just drive the edge of the scraper in and then forward staying as close to the edge as possible especially around the oil pump. When you get the right side done you can wedge a gasket scraper in and the whole thing should pop right off. I never found a solvent that would work on that mastic just use a gasket scraper on the block and pan.

Serpentine belts are noise makers? The last time I had noise up front it was my waterpump bearing. I suppose any bearing will do. I found the specific one with a automotive stethoscope. V-belts can be waxed to quiet them down, don't do that with serpentine belts.

99 44/100 % of MJ brake problems are due to REAR brake problems. 99 44/100 % of brake fixers only work on the front brakes.

When my order was in back in ought 87, way back when...the dealer told me that the vent windows were holding delivery up. I figured Chrysler was just screwing up the assembly line. What I eventually got has never leaked, whistled, etc. etc. so I really can't believe what has been said about post Chrysler vent windows.

It should be tight enough to hang onto the fuel pump intake without falling off until it is seated in the fuel tank sock trough. The pressure between the hanger and the fuel tank pretty much keep the sock pressed onto the fuel pump.

If you still have a fuel filter...frame rail, left side in front of the tank... the injector rail might be clean. Don't forget to pull the return line nipple out of the old tank before you trash it. I don't see it on your hanger pictures.

Stock 5th gear @55mph < 2000rpm...maybe about 1750.

Stock 4.0 with or without A/C used same belt.

The Renix ECU has default settings for the sensors when it detects a sensor out of range/not connected. You are saying the default for the block temperature sensor is better than the reading it is sending. Could be, sensors do go bad in strange ways. I can't imagine a 2000 rpm idle under any condition, however. Good way to loose bearings, seals and oil filter on a cold engine.

Word of warning. I like the sliding rear window...so far (26 years)...because its sooooo easy to open without breaking anything when I lock my keys inside out in the boonies. The plastic off of a shotgun shell wraps around the mount and flips the catch open so easily.

I can't imagine the ECU surviving.

The Froggy vent is a popout by the shifter. Yours may have popped out. Both the tranny and the transfer case hoses are bolted to the spacer plate on the right lower side of the engine...2 metal elbows stick out.

Battery age has nothing to do with it. Stick a hydrometer in your battery and see if it is charged...and full of electrolyte. I think you had it right the first time.

I fixed about every electrical problem I had by crimping the contacts in the connectors running into the ECU...without replacing any sensors,coils etc, etc. After 25 years of vibration the female contacts in ALL the connectors have a tendency to open up and cause at least intermittant problems. You can check out the condition of the C201 and C202 connectors by removing the ECU from its mount and letting it hang by the connectors on the transmission tunnel. Start the engine and wiggle the wires running into the connectors one at a time. If nothing happens then all the contacts are tight. Otherwise start pulling contacts and crimping them. Just cleaning won't do.

I got this problem when I was trying out MAT replacements. I thought I had lunched my engine.

Things I replaced reguarding this that didn't do a thing: Valve cover gasket Clutch fluid line Rear main seal Oil pan plug Oil pan gasket Oil filter adapter o-ring The two things I did at the same time that resulted in the final fix: Replaced throwout bearing (along with the pressure plate, clutch plate, and flywheel) Sealed oil pan gasket loop that runs under the rear bearing cap with Permatex Ultra Grey Although the inside of the bell housing was coated with something tarry, I really don't think it was Dot3 from the throwout bearing. I think tiny amounts of oil from the crankcase got around the oil pan gasket and ran down both side of the spacer plate into the bell housing over the years. Naturally no one nowadays knows what a bell housing or throwout bearing is. Tranny seal? Absolutely no evidence of leaking.

5.56mm

When I find out a tire dude mounts my wheels with an air gun, they never see me again. I also wonder how anyone will do a stock alignment with non-stock tires. I vote for alignment and bent wheel/disk brake issues.

If you have the correct leading and trailing shoes figured out (short liner leader, long trailer) and you got the 1.75 vs 2.5 on both PINS and SHOES, then check to see that the parking brake lever and its retainer clip are on the trailing shoe top hole. I've been running mine without the spring washer so I don't think that could be a problem. A lot of times the parking brake cable guide, again on the trailing shoe, will pop out of its hole when you mount the trailing spring. I have to glue mine into place so that I get a good spring mount without pulling the guide out of the hole in the shoe. When the parking brake strut, the wheel cylinder plungers, the shoe springs and the cable guide are in place the shoes should automaticly snap into position. I CAN'T IMAGINE ITS POSSIBLE TO INSTALL A SHOE UPSIDE DOWN... I can't even imagine doing the initial adjustment and getting a drum on unless the shoes are in position. The parking brake and adjustment stuff easily go in after you get everything else right. If the shoes aren't riding up on the backing plate sliders but are actually down between them and the backing plate flange how did you get the drum on? That flange rides in a groove that goes around the bake drum?

On my 88 the whole shifter is easy to remove and re-install, boots, flange, shifter and all. Sounds like you are trying to remove everything while leaving the lower part of the shifter attached to the tranny. Try pulling the whole shifter...no problem. BA should be BA 87 or 88.