mvusse

I have a set of (TJ, I believe) Wrangler ones laying around, and they use a tapered tie rod type end on the upper mount, but the axle side is the same as the older MJ/XJ bushings. My 96 XJ is the same, but it's quite possible 99 is not. Can you get some pictures?

No rust around the caps? Here in Ohio, in the winter, I can install a new u joint and a week later the entire joint will be covered in rust.

The axles use either Spicer 5-260x ("small", or 1 1/16" diameter cap) or 5-297x ("large", or 1 4/16" caps) joints (5-760x is a stronger replacement for the 297), or equivalent. Drive shafts use 5-153x or equivalent. If you do need to replace any, my experience has been that Spicer is far superior to Duralast, Duralast Gold, Neapco and Neapco Bruteforce offered by Autozone and Advance Auto parts respectively, even though their warranty sucks (6 months), and the 760 are nigh indestructible.

Ford Ranger is just a rebadged Mazda, so still the same truck ;)

What exactly do you mean by "my rear wheels spin free"?

Sounds like you're in 4wd.

Just remove the dash bezel and there are four screws that hold in the light covers and instrument panel, remove them and you have access from the rear. Six scews. The light is turned on by a timer, and basically means it's time to replace the oxygen sensor.

How could you allow a Ford to help fix your Jeep?

That's a short bed tank. Your's being an 86 would be a long bed. Long bed tank for 86 and newer is the same, but depending on engine, the sending unit is not. The 86 2.8 V6 has a mechanical pump, while the 2.5 and 4.0 have an electric pump mounted to the sending unit inside the tank.

Quite possible the bulb just burned out. With the light always being on, check your vacuum hoses and reservoir (inside front bumper, passenger side). Especially the lines going to/from the transfer case and front axle.

1/4 should be plenty. Problem with 3/8 is finding a welder big enough to get good penetration. Even 1/4" takes a decent amount of power.

Back when it was bone stock, my 4.0/AW4 got 24mpg on the highway as long as I kept the speed down to 60. And that was with the original Siemens injectors. I replaced them for some better Bosch ones, but I can't compare as I'm not anywhere near stock anymore.

Just read that blog and decided his frame must be rotted. I have no problem closing my doors, nor do I have mismatched body parts due to flex, and two axles in the bed is nothing compared to what I've had in it, although 2 tons of dirt did break leafs in both my springs and caused me to roll through a stop sign on a steep downhill with the brakes to the floor.

Looking at the pictures I must agree the front seems to be a bit higher than stock.

Forget the bus. I want the convertible!

Here in Strasburg (population ~2000) power is pretty dependable. When it's out it's usually due to a tree or tree limb taking out a wire, but it's pretty rare as they stay on top of trimming any trees that could cause a problem. Used to be Ohio Edison, but now American Electric Power. My cable, telephone and internet all come from Time Warner and are about the same. When Ilived just 5 miles north of here, between Bolivar and Zoar, the power would fail if somebody breathed too hard outside. At least a few hours every week. A former coworker of mine lives there, and everybody n his street has a generator. Pretty funny driving his street after the power has been out a few hours, house after house after house with a generator sitting in the driveway, or in the garage with the door open.

Like this? Yes, like that. @southernwheeler: I didn't. Been clean for almost 17 years now.

Newer style, but a friend of mine just bought an 80s Vanagon.

Do ZJ skids work on an MJ?

Stock is a bit over 2" rake, and looks about right in your pictures. But also just looking at the pictures, you gained more than 4" in the rear. As for DW, what is your toe? With our inverted Y steering, lift causes toe-in. When I lifted mine 4.5", I ended up with 2" toe in, setting off DW at speeds as low as 25-35 mph severe enough to fry the alternator bearings. Reset the toe to 0 and all was well.

I see no issues that would be causing fumes. I would check the exhaust for leaks, or oil dripping onto it. The two hoses going to the firewall are for the heater. They should have nothing but coolant in them. Also, if you like the truck, get rid of the Fram oil filter and put another brand on.

Uuuuhhh, yeah, that could do it.

Including track bar frame end bracket?

My 2" Chevy drop shackles are the same length as 2" XJ lift shackles (7.25") and netted me 3/4" lift. And the reaction I have gotten from people who have seen them was "Holy long shackles, Batman!". I also removed Chevy drop shackles from my new 87 that the previous owner installed a budget boost on and replaced them with the stock ones from my other 87, and again, the difference was barely 3/4".

To combat axle wrap, you're going to want longer than stock perches. I've been very happy with my Ruffstuff Specialties ones. Possibly a bit overbuilt out of 1/4" thick material, but that's fine with me.