mvusse

If you go through Strasburg, OH on I-77, you're free to spend the night at my place if you don't want to drive up in one day. If not, we could meet up somewhere and convoy partway.

About 3/4". A 2" XJ lift shackle would be 4" longer than a stock XJ shackle, or roughly 7" to 7.5" long. This is about the same as a Chevy 2" drop shackle. IIRC my Chevy drop shackles measure 7.25" and gave me 3/4" lift.

That one works for me.

%#@$ Another Comanche off to the boneyard!

Also, the MJ axle sits forward of the center point of the springs, so for 1" lift you need MORE than 2" longer shackle. My 2" Chevy drop shackles gave me about 3/4" lift.

How long are your shackles? I run 2" Chevy drop shackles on mine, the response I got from people was "Holy long shackles, Batman!", and they only gave me about 3/4" lift versus the stock shackles. The shackles are 2" longer than stock, but the axle sits forward of the center point of the leafs, so for every 1" extra shackle length, you get less than 0.5" lift. For 1.5" lift you'd need shackles that are 8 to 9" long!

Even the 240 sx has transmission problems. At least my brother's S13 did. Had the transmission rebuilt twice in four years (by different companies) and when 2nd and 4th quit working again he got rid of it.

You can add them to your leaf pack, which will make the pack thicker and thus stiffer with a higher spring rate. Assuming they have the same arch as the stock MJ leafs, the only lift you gain if you're still SUA is from the higher spring rate, maybe an inch or so with an empty bed. If you're SOA it will lift that plus the thickness of the leaf.

You misunderstand what I''m saying. 2wd leafs sit the truck 1" lower than 4wd leafs. So gaining 5.5" going spring over with 2wd leafs (lifted 5.5") is only 4.5" higher than a stock 4wd truck. Either way, to still go SOA and sit lower yet, he will have to bastard pack leaf packs, possibly with XJ leafs in the mix. BTW. I use a tape measure for a living. The tape doesn't lie, just your interpretation of my words.

My 87 lwb had a factory step bumper with what you identified as swb mounts. 4 bolts in the side, one on the bottom and the "bubble" in the side bracket. Just removed it yesterday. Bumper had rotted away inside, and so the bit that was left of the outside was just an empty shell held in place by the trailer hitch. Bottom of driver side bracket ripped apart, passenger side bracket in decent shape for 24 years old.

IIRC, with Ruffstuffspecialties perches (that sit higher than stock) on a 3" 8.25 axle tube I gained 5.25" of lift IIRC, but it could have been 5.75". Let's for the sake of argument say 5.5". That means that with 2wd leafs (1" lower than 4wd ones) you will gain 4.5" over stock 4wd setup. Either way, our trucks are raked forward quite a bit from the factory, and you will still want close to 6.5" up front for it to look level.

Don't know who all is coming from my direction (NE Ohio), but I'm going into Toledo either on 280 and then following I-75 north, or I may be getting on I-75 near Findlay, about 50 miles south of Toledo and follow it north.

I rode in a ZJ with about the same lift as my MJ, so the front is pretty much the same. The ZJ made me seasick from the @$$ end moving side to side as the suspension articulated.

In the general Detroit area would work for me, assuming I have no scheduling conflicts.

You would need to use limiting straps. If you let the axle droop all the way down with XJ shackles, the shackles will angle so far forward that when weight comes back on the axle they flip up in the forward position: NOT good. I was thinking of doing the same thing once, and tested this. The XJ shackles are just not long enough to handle the change in distance between the end points of the springs from fully drooped to fully compressed.

I swapped D35 disk brakes onto my 8.25". Only mod I needed to do was to enlarge the center hole in the bracket and backing plates from 2.75" to 3". I used two hole saws stacked inside of each other (2.75" to act as a center bit, 3" to cut the larger hole) in a drill press set to 250 rpm. Took me about 2 minutes and a few ounces of oil. Never worked with a D44 other than the rear axle of my ford f100 (still have it, 67" wms yo wms, 5 on 5.5, 2.72 ratio :ack: ), so YMMV.

I highly advice against this. I bought one once, it''s a gimmick.. They way they are designed, it has little hooks that grab the disc once the temperature reaches 210 degrees, not allowing it to close again, ever. So if the coolant ever reaches 210 dehrees it fails in the open position causing you to have to replace it. Problem with this is that 210 degrees is well within normal operating specs and can easily be reached on a hot day, towing or hauling heavy loads, mountain driving, etc. I bought mine in Columbia, SC on the way home from Florida, around the VA/WV border I hit 210 degrees and was essentially running without a thermostat from that point on. This was the third week of February, not very warm out, but I was cruising 80-85 through the Appalachians in my 6000 pound Suburban. Just get a regular good quality 195 degree thermostat and stay as far away from the failsafe ones as possible.

AAA plus allows free towing up to 100 miles. RV plus is mainly for motor homes.

I have AAA plus. If a tow truck driver can't do it, they will pay for a locksmith. Tow truck driver's always been able to, although some are better than others.

If you flex the suspension off road, you will want to add wheel spacers to the 8.8. I have a 8.25" out back (an inch or so wider) and had to add spacers to keep the wheels out of the inside of the wheel well. Be sure to get hub centric ones. I know Spidertrax makes them, possibly others as well. Another option would be to get different rims for the front and rear, but that would just be silly. 3.75"-4" bs like M.O. suggested works out about perfect on the front. Also expect to be replacing unit bearings a few times a year. They don't like 35" tires, or even 33s very well.

That axle doesn't specify if it's 27 spline or 29 spline. The 29 spline variety is fine with 35" tires, but I would get one out of a 97 or newer (late 96 model year was the switch over) Cherokee from the junk yard for less than $100.

In my experience having to turn the key a few times before the starter engages is more of then than not he starter itself. Wheel bearings are not too bad to replace if they are not rust welded to the steering knuckle. This trick usually works quite well, using your power steering as a hydraulic press:

I made a 1" diameter 4' long oak dowel rod out of a scrap piece of wood I use. Works like a charm.

Guy I worked with had a 2wd S10 with that engine for a while. His seemed dependable, but he was always complaining about gas mileage. Mixed driving he got around 16mpg, even after a complete tune up. My 4.0 Comanche got better than that when it was stock.

Add to that the fact that the 2.8V6 hardly makes any more power than tha 2.5 I4 and is a gas hog, I would stay away from one unless you plan to swap something else into it.