mvusse

Why not start breeding Ox, Gibs, Capons, Wethers or Barrow?

Why would his 91 electronics not be able to run the 98 transmission, just ignoring the extra input speed sensor the transmission has? They are both AW4.

I like buying local for multiple reasons. I like seeing the part to make sure it's right if possible, prefer to dealing with people in person instead of over the phone and hate having to wait for the parts to arrive. Luckily in my small town backwoods, besides chains like Autozone and Advance I also have a small NAPA with the same people who worked there when I moved here, 18 years ago. I also have two small specialty shops close by. Dover Brake, which specialize in semi truck brakes and suspension, but have always had the little parts I needed in stock, like center bolts, or they make them to order while I wait, like U bolts. The other is JW Cookson for custom drive shafts (not cheap, but do great quality work to my specs) as well as Spicer u joints (5-760x always in stock for ~$25) and little parts like a baffle for a D30 diff ($0.75, I was out the door with it less than a minute after I walked in!)

They're not just for the Waggies. My 1987 Comanche Pioneer came stock with the 10 spokes.

The driver side seal is the same. Passenger side is not machined for one, so a stock seal will not work. I got the number somewhere in my built thread (linked from my signature) around page 13 or so.

Front is the same, rear is not.

Put the stud in the freezer for a few hours, heat the axle flange with a torch, use liberal amounts of grease, a few washers (also covered in grease), a lug nut and either a large breaker bar (30" or longer) or an impact. Should pull it right in. Throw that lug nut in the trash afterwards.

91 computer uses a speed sensor on the output of the transmission (or transfer case). 98 computer used a speed sensor on the output as well as the input of the transmission. It should all still be fine as the 91 computer will just ignore the input speed sensor, but I'm not sure if the harness "plugs" are the same. Can't bee too specific as I really do not know much about 97 and newer XJ electronics. The newest one I own is a 96.

It would induce bump steer, but should not cause DW. Agree with replacing control arms and track bar with some good quality ones. Also check your toe-in.

Pump will not make a difference, as they are the same. The sender does make a difference. Problem is, nobody makes Comanche senders anymore. the ones some parts stores list as for a Comanche are actually the Cherokee ones. A Cherokee sender does not fit in an OEM tank as the pan in the bottom interferes. This may or may not be your problem. Supposedly they work in an aftermarket tank without the pan. I have never tried myself, this information is from what I read on these forums over the past few years. I also know at least one member has an XJ unit in an aftermarket tank, but don't know if he has any problems with it.

Don't need a gauge to figure mileage. Just the gallons from your fuel receipt and the miles from your odometer. Divide the amount of fuel you just put in by the number of miles since the last fill up. You do have to fill the tank to the same level (usually full) each time, though.

Yes, that one should fit.

That one may be a tad high.

What's so crazy about his price?

Price looks about right to me, nothing crazy about it.

As far as I know there was no change to the long wheelbase gas tanks over the years, so any year should fit. Two things of note: 1 - there are two sizes: 23 gallons (needs three straps) and 16 gallons (needs two straps) 2 - OEM tanks have a sort of pan in the bottom of the tank. It serves a purpose, but is also why (XJ) Cherokee units do not fit in our tanks (the arm interferes with the side of the pan). Some aftermarket tanks do not have this pan, in which case an XJ sending unit may work if you do ever end up needing a new one.

Sorry, my bad. Fixed in my original post.

Every bit of information I can find on the BA 10/5 is 0.79 OD in Jeeps, 0.82 OD in Peugeot gasoline cars and 0.84 OD for Peugeot diesel cars. 33" tire, 70mph 4.10 gears (fromt the spreadhseet) is 2285 rpm. Divide by 0.75, multiply by 0.79 gives you 2407 rpm. IMO, that's way above ideal for a Renix engine.

5th gear ratio for the BA 10/5 is actually 0.72:1. In the original version of the spreadsheet I can enter the correct overdrive ratio. For the version I posted, I used 0.75:1 because that's what the AW4 uses and what most owners seem to have. The difference is very minor. I thought the 90 and older (21 spline)AW4s used a 0.70 OD. Or do I have them reversed again? Going by that spreadsheet, a stock size tire (assuming P225/75R15 is stock, because I have two MJs and an XJ and all three list a different size stock tire on the door jamb) does 730 revolutions per mile. Divide that by 4.10 (new gear ratio), multiply by 3.07 (old gear ratio) and the result is a tire that does 547 revolutions per mile for the speedo to be correct, OIW for the same final drive ratio. Again, according to that spread sheet even a 35" tires (largest in there) does 599.

One thing to note on the spreadsheet in the above mentioned thread is that it's set up for a 0.75 overdrive ratio. The OP has either a BA/10-5 or an AX15, both of which have a 0.79 overdrive. That will affect the rpm calculations somewhat.

Be aware that changing from 3.07 to 4.10 will overshoot big time with 33" tires. 36" would be closer. Speedo will be off, 1st gear will be very short and cruising rpm doing 70 on the highway will be higher (but not unacceptably so). 3.73 may be a better fit, although possibly more difficult to find.

As was the Dodge Raider (although not a truck). 2 door Montero.

Even though they are bolts, they do not thread into the bracket. I'm guessing they were rust welded in, and now that you ground both side off, you may have made the problem worse. My suggestion would be to either drill them out (which you tried already, correct type of drill bit?) or drive them out with a hardened punch and a BFH, along the lines of a 3 pound sledge.

Do the rear brake lights flash when you turn on the turn signals or hazards?

I have converted to a single piece passenger front shaft in the Pig and have no such problems, even with an Aussie locker in the front. The Purple People Eater also has a permanently engaged axle, and no such problems. Neither did my 94 XJ, or my buddy's Selsc-Trac 90XJ, both of which came from the factory without a central axle disconnect on the front axle. Even when the axle is engaged, if the wheels are binding or jerking in 2wd there's something hinky going on with either the u joints or the differential.