mvusse

Been wanting to check it out for a while, time and money just don't seem to be working out.

What worries me is that gear oil (no matter what weight), just like motor oil, nowadays has different additive packages than they did 17 years ago (the AX5 is from 94). And with the introduction of the new superlow ZDDP/no ZDDP oils, they are not backward compatible with the older stuff. As for gear oil, they added a bunch of sulphur to it over the years. I've heard this high sulphur content will eat the brass synchros in the AX15. Don't know if the AX5 has this problem or not. My current AX4 has Mobil-1 10w30 full synthetic in it, but it already didn't have a 4th gear synchro and all the bearings are shot. The PO used that to try to extend the life a few more months, but if it didn't work, the transmission was shot already to begin with, so no big deal.

For the oil leak you're gonna have to pull the valve cover again. I'm willing to bet it's leaking from the back where the gasket either got damaged or slipped trying to get the cover back in place. As for the starter, I'm guessing it's the starter itself.

Picked up a new driveshaft for the Pig made from 3" .188 wall tube, $250. Then went 75 minutes in the other direction and picked up an AX5 for the Purple People Eater.

When I still had Booger, best ever mileage I managed to get was 22mpg. The new owner was putting 1000 miles a week on it between getting a job in Maryland and finally getting his house in Ohio sold, so he started fuel saving modifications, including different fuel injectors (from a Neon, I believe) and putting skinnier tires on it. He's going down the highway getting 26mpg now. That's in a 94 4.0HO.

My truck does not have AC, nor did it have "heavy duty cooling", and it had the larger one. Then again, don't know if it was original.

What oil do I use in an AX5? Do I need to add any additives like ZDDP to make up for the lack of phosphor in current oils?

As for the pilot bearing/bushing, didn't Pete do this swap using one out of a CJ or something?

Easy enough to shift the sleeve over manually and shim the fork into place.

Are you POSITIVE the AMC 2.5 and GM 2.8/3.1/3.4 use the same mounts?

The clutch is not disengaging. Try shifting into first gear without the engine running, then starting it in gear.

And I thought the Purple People Eater was low miles at 79,000 (now 83,000). As usual he thinks his truck is worth more than it really is, despite the low miles.

A large number of 4wd farm tractors use different size tires front and rear, with axle ratios to match the tires.

I have seen a Cadillac 500 in a Chevette. 6 seconds (1/8 mile) for <$2000.

Maybe it ran good before he pulled it, and has no way to test it currently as it is sitting on a skid?

If you refurbish an original Siemens injector, you still have a crappy single hole Siemens injector. Get junkyard Bosch injectors (I believe the Ford Mustang with the 4.6l will have the correct flow rate) and have those rebuilt instead. rstarch on "myunibody.com" has more information on injectors and flow rates that work in Jeeps.

Any 4.0 out of an 87 through 90 XJ Cherokee should work.

That's what the ad says.

This thread was not about removing the mechanical fan to be able to run an electric. This thread was about removing the fan pulley because the bearings were bad and neither bearings nor pulley are readily available.

By the time the TJ came along, the 2.5s were internally balanced. My 1987 is externally balanced.

Quick update. Just spoke with him again, and yes, he is still alive, but too busy with work to have time for anything else.

Isn't the flywheel on our 2.5s externally balanced (or engine externally balanced at the flywheel and harmonic damper for the nit picks)? Can't be swapped out.

In the Purple People Eater (which has just 80,000 actual miles) I turned the odometer on the new cluster back to match the old one. The AMC clusters don't have a seal of any sort to prevent this. And then when I installed the new new cluster (which added a tachometer) I just unscrewed the odometer from the old new cluster and moved it over to the new new one. But you can't swap them from a dummy light one to a gauges one due to there not being a trip gauge.

The SOA alone will net you close to 6" of lift. Combine that with 4.5" lift springs and your total rear lift will be around 10".

If you mean the pressure plate for an AX-15 and a 4.0L engine, I think the pressure plate will be too big to fit in the smaller 2.5L bell housing. Dumb question: Since the bell housing to make this work is from a Dakota that mates the AX-15 to the 2.5L engine -- why not use the Dakota clutch that goes with that engine and tranny combination? I didn't know if a Dakota 2.5l clutch would work on an AMC 2.5l engine, that's why I was asking. And I meant the pressure plate from the Dakota the tranny would be off of. My AX-4 does not have a 4th gear synchro, and it sounds like some bearings are falling apart inside (came out of a well abused 92 YJ). If I'm going to replace it, I figured I might as well upgrade.