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mvusse

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Everything posted by mvusse

  1. One of many thingswrong in this country. If they tried this $#!& back home we'd shut the whole damn country down.
  2. Wouldn't let me vote either. But I have an 87 MJ with black interior that is my daily driver, and I have an 87 MJ with black interior that is my trail rig (35" tires, lockers, winch...) Yes, they are two different trucks.
  3. Pete is correct. With a load on the axle (in a forward gear) the pinion will turn up, making the angle even more incorrect. The pinion should be parallel to the output of the transfer case, or about 2 to 3 degrees lower to account for it turning up. That would be pretty much parallel to the ground.
  4. Ummm, for a stock style drive shaft (single u joint on each end) that angle is completely wrong and I'm surprised you have no vibrations. The pinion should run parallel to the transfer case output. If you run a double cardan CV style drive shaft (like the front drive shaft), that angle would be correct.
  5. Reason I asked is because a lot of people seem to think anything over 210 (even just a hair over) is overheating. Sounds like you have an air bubble in the system now. There's a post somewhere on how to burp it, but I can't find it.
  6. The tank itself is the same between Renix and AMC. The sender and pump are different, though.
  7. Looking at the 23.5 gallon tank under my long bed, and the space in frontof the axle of my short bed, there's no way a 23.5 gallon will fit under a short bed. Rear axle is in the way.
  8. I wouldn't say that the AW4 is stronger, but Mopar doesn't have a very good track record when it comes to building transmissions. The AW4 is a lot more dependable than any 42, 44 or 46 from Mopar. Ultra Bell makes a bellhousing to mate a TH350 or TH400 to a Chrysler LA block like the 5.2.
  9. Did not bother to read your list of fixes as from the very start it seems to be a timing issue. Quite possible the distributor was installed one or more teeth out from where it should be when the engine swap was done.
  10. Burp the air out of the system. By overheating, do you mean running over 210 degrees? (Which is not actually overheating and well within operating specs.) Or do you mean needle pegged, steam coming out from under the hood and coolant boiling in the pressure tank? Or do you mean 210 degrees, steam coming from under the hood and coolant boiling in the pressure tank? Also, what do you use for coolant? Premixed? Tap water? Distilled water? Concentrate? Mix of any of these?
  11. That's why the 2.5 setup has a remote reservoir. As to the original poster: on a 4.0 there are 2 hoses, a pressure hose that goes from the pump to the steering gear (box). Both ends have a screw in fitting. Then there is a return hose from the steering gear to the pump mounted reservoir. This one has a crew in fitting on one end and a hose clamp on the other end. The fittings on the steering gear end of the two hoses are different sizes. On a 2.5 set up the reservoir goes next to the radiator.and there is a third hose between thereservoir and the pump. If I were to do the swap (and I have in my 79 F100 after dislocating a finger during a sharp turn) I would pull all the parts from a junk yard vehicle, which would most likely be a Cherokee in this case, but use new hoses from a parts store.
  12. For $25 more you can get a new Aussie with warranty.
  13. On HO engines there's a temp sensor on the thermostat hosing that runs through the ECU. Also some Renix 4.0s didn't have an auxiliary fan as my 87 doesn't even have the plug for one, or the relay for that matter.
  14. I agree. Get a good pair of snow tires, have them studded if you'll be driving on ice and forget about an automatic locker. The locker will give you two drive wheels on the rear axle. Problem is that when one spins you don't have one left to keep you tracking straight. They both spin and every turn on snow will result in a fish tail. Trac-lok would be great if you can find one.
  15. How do you know someone did a gauge swap and that cluster is not original?
  16. If you're going to replace the rod bearings you should also do the mains, which would make replacing the rod bearings seem like a piece of cake. As mnkyboy stated another question is how badly the crank is damaged and will it need work.
  17. Should be able to from underneath after dropping the oil pan, but it would be a pain in the behindto do it from underneath a vehicle.
  18. The sliders are the same, but the mounting brackets that go from the slider down to the floor of the truck are different due to the floor pan being different. Edit: I was replying to the difference between XJ and MJ brackets, not bench/buckets. Guess I should have checked to make sure that was the last post...
  19. I think (memory is somewhat muddy this morning) the D35 should have had 10x1.75" drums, whereas the 8.25 has 9x2.5" ones.
  20. I run 35x12.50s on 15x8 wheels with 4" BS on a HP30, CAD delete, Spicer 5-760x joints and an Aussie locker. On average I go through 4 or 5 unit bearings per year on top of a pair of u joints and two axle shafts. The u joints are the same as a Dana 44 unless you want to spend major $$$ on CTM ones. Lower ball joints don't last very long either, even Moog ones; uppers seem to do fine, though. A friend of mine runs pretty much the same setup without the locker and he went through 3 sets of spider gears in a year. 33s on a HP30 are okay, 35 is pushing the limit. I was going to upgrade to a HP44, but that won't solve my u joint problem, so a D60 is in the future. Will have to up tire size just to keep the same ground clearance, but have not decided yet on what size. Easiest to find rear to match would be a 14 bolt, but then I'd have to shave that boat anchor.
  21. Maybe, maybe not. The cut of the gears changed in 94. If it's from a 93 or older, it will fit in your transfer case, but I don't know if it's the correct length for behind an AX15. If it is 95 or newer it won't fit. 94 would be anyone's guess.
  22. Advance Auto Parts - Anchor 2572: $17.99 Autozone - Duralast 2572: $17.99 Rock Auto - Anchor 2572: $5.50
  23. Ballistic Fab makes a kit that includes everything except the upper control arm mounts for just a bit over $100. I believe there are others out there but don't know offhand who. Ballistic Fab seems to be having a problem shipping internet orders out, though. Supposedly if you order by telephone you should be okay. (Planning on doing the same thing next year).
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