mvusse

People I know who are running the radius arm setup are always complaining about the front suspension unloading on uphill slopes.

I was in DC with the 8th grade class last May. Reflecting pool looked the same then as it does now. Disappointed me as well.

:doh: I did know about the M3 having an oil temp gauge.. Just didn't remember it.

Now that I have a tow rig again, AND a trailer, Rausch Creek is in my plans for next year. Also planning to check out Bundy Hill.

I have never owned a driven a vehicle with an oil temp gauge. Closest was a transmission temp gauge on a 4wd K30 I drove for a summer. Don't know of any that came from the factory with one either. A lot of heavy duty vehicles set up for towing (pickup trucks, large SUVs, some vans) have a factory oil cooler either inside the radiator, separate from the radiator, or both. My Suburban for example used to have one in front of the A/C condenser, followed by one inside the radiator. I believe the thinking behind running it through the radiator after the primary cooler was to prevent the oil from getting too cold in the winter -> higher viscosity/higher fuel consumption.

Any 1997 or newer Cherokee 8.25" axle is a good choice, almost equal to a D44 in some aspects, better in others. Beware, though, as even in those years a lot of them had D35 rear axles. Pretty simple to relocate the spring perches with an angle grinder and a large welder. It is also trivial to swap ZJ D35 disc brakes onto this axle. The only needed modification is drilling out the center hole from 2.75" to 3" to fit around the larger axle tube. D44 from early Comanches or Cherokees is difficult to find and usually fetches a premium price. Ford 8.8 is lauded by many, and fits pretty well under a Wrangler or Cherokee. The Comanche wheel wells, however are a bit wider in the back, and the 1" narrower axle will cause interference problems with the inside of the fender unless you use wheel spacers. 1995 and newer had disc brakes, and 4.10 ratio is pretty common in these. You will also need to get a 1310 flange for it, or a 1310/1350 conversion u-joint to mate your driveshaft to one. D35 is fine as a boat anchor, but not as an axle under a vehicle. High pinion D30 is easiest to find under a Cherokee, and were used I believe through 1999. 2000 and 2001 are low pinion. Any with anti lock brakes had the 297 joints, 1997 and newer has 1997 regardless of brakes. Selec-trac models (with the 242 transfer case and full time 4wd capability) didn't have a CAD. 1992 and newer not have one regardless of transfer case. Other D30s that are a straight swap in are under ZJ Grand Cherokees and TJ Wranglers, but IIRC, these are all low pinion. YJ is high pinion but leaf sprung. 4.88 was never offered from the factory. 4.56 was available from the factory under some early 80s 4 cylinder/automatic transmission. Very rare. 4.10 is very common under 4 cylinder/5 speed, and all later 4 cylinder regardless of transmission 3.55 came with earlier 4 cylinder/4 speed and 6 cylinder/automatic 3.07 came with 6 cylinder/5 speed.

Leaking brake booster.

I've wheeled a number of different places, and all are a favorite on at least one point. Overall, I don't think I can pick one that sticks out beyond the others. Favorite in Indiana is definitely Badlands Off Road Park in Attica. But then again, it's the only place I've wheeled in Indiana.

Wow. Are those pictures from 1991?

But I do not see how this would not be possible with disc brakes.

Blocks can be a bad idea. Steel ones are difficult to find and aluminum ones will break over time. I had a set on a Cherokee for about a year until I noticed a crack in one so I removed them. After I had the u bolts off, one fell apart into two pieces, the other one into three.

I'm with Eagle on bastard packing the rear springs instead of using XJ shackles. You will have to drill out the center holes a bit if using XJ leafs, though, as they use a smaller center pin.

That was music? Definitely not my kind.

My name is Marcel. He was asking me if I was slipping on them, as I'd already asked pretty much the same question earlier AND got an answer. But I didn't remember I had.

350 miles from home, and I just removed the rear driveshaft. Now why would I do that?

A few years back when my 87 was still dent free (but quite badly rusted, and nonmatching color front fenders and header panel) a crunch in the rear lower corner of the bed side would have totalled it out. Cosmetic damage only. Explained to the insurance company that I would really like to keep it with a clear title, and they explained to me that they could then only pay me 80% of the truck's worth. Anything over 80% would total it out. So I got almost $1100 and kept my truck. I then went and spent the money on a lift kit....

nope i was planning to do that but i lost title that time. Slipping on us Marcel? Rob Yeah, that "oldtimers" thing is getting worse, it seems.

From all the complaints I have heard about Rusty's, I have never heard one about their coil springs. Then again, their coil springs are made for them by an outside company. I also don't know who makes the coil springs for MO, but I have a set of their 4.5" ones and have been happy with them. Correct amount of lift on a 4.0 (may give an inch more on a 2.5), and nice comfortable ride.

If you've had plates on it, the registration that went along with those plates is enough proof. It will have your name AND the vin on it.

Everybody is saying long arms or drop brackets, yet I run 6.25" lift with short arms and it rides like a Cadillac. Explain that one to me. What's the stock spring rate on a Comanche? Get different shocks.

Have fun! I'm headed to Canada tomorrow.

Kelly Wintermark HT And yes, they are studable.

My lifted truck runs 4.5" lift springs from Motion Offroad along with 1.75" spacers and shocks meant for some sort of antique Toyota car. Short arms, no drop brackets. Truck rides like a Cadillac. Stiffness has way more to do with shocks and spring rate than it does with control arm angles. Disconnecting the sway bar will cause the truck to roll more in turns, and can allow it to sway side to side on the highway (Pete and Automan saw mine do that on I-75), but will have no effect on the stiffness of the front suspension.

I have seen one with the second battery in the bed. Assuming a 2.5 or 4.0 I imagine if you get rid of the stock air cleaner and reroute the air intake (snorkle?) you cut fit a second battery there.

Tire studs help on ice, but don't do anything on snow. I have used sand bags in the trunk of my Olds 98 and the bed of my F100. I have also shovelled all the snow from the driveway into the bed of my F100 once, but after a few freeze/thaw cycles I ended up with a 500 pound block of ice sliding all over the place beating it all to heck. A buddy of mine uses elevator counter balance weights, and yet another buddy built a 2x4 rack that holds a large Rubbermaid tote filled with sand in place centered over the axle. I found out on my F100 that a set of good quality snow tires (like Wintermark) works infinitely better than any amount of weight in the bed. Right now my dd Comanche is 4wd so I don't worry about it too much.