mvusse

Older and newer rotors have a difference in the thickness of the mounting surface. That difference is made up by the older/newer unit bearings, not the knuckles. So either get a new pair of rotors, or get another pair of unit bearings. Rotors are cheaper. However, your old rotors should work just fine with your old unit bearings.

I have found that the correct size center pins for Comanche springs have heads that are too large for the perches, so the heads still need ground down. I get them locally at a spring shop. Imagine Fastenall would have them. I know Summit Racing does. Another option is to use an Allen bolt. They have a round head.

Good luck!

For street use only they're not essential, but help keep grease from the tie rod ends off the rotor. For offroad use I remove mine because little pebbles get wedged between them and the rotor making a godawfull screeching noise.

Measure the distance between the original MJ perches. Then when you weld new ones onto the 8.25" make sure the distance between each perch and brake backing plate is the same so they are centered. Chrysler 8.25" has 3" tubes. Also leaf retaining bolt/center pin should also not be reused.

Yeah, what he ^^^^^ said. I'm guessing Cherokee.

U bolts shouldn't be reused anyway. You're not using the Cherokee perches in their stock location are you? 'cause they are not spaced apart the correct distance. I used spring perches and shock mounts I got from Ruffstuff Specialties.

The only time I have seen automotive paint stripped off with a pressure washer was with a 3000psi commercial unit, and it was unintentional. Even with 3000 psi the dealership conceded the paint should be able to withstand that and was deemed defective. The truck got repainted as a warranty repair.

Just checked if that was near my son-in-law (Columbus, GA), but it's not. Incidently, it's not real close to Huntsville either. Huntsville is well over an hour's driving from that truck.

If that doesn't work, and the lug nut is not welded to the rim, weld (have welded) a large nut to the top to get a socket on it. Even with the caliper bolts out, as long as the caliper is on the disc inside the wheel you will not be able to remove the wheel/disk/unit bearing/axle shaft as an assembly because the caliper is hooked behind the steering knuckle. If this a a 4wd truck, you also won't be able to remove the balljoints because the axle shaft is in the way. Drilling it out is going to be hard, as studs are usually grade 8. A torch would make quick work of it but also mess up the rim.

Best/fastest way to strip it clean would be a media blaster, but as stated before, I see no need to strip it clean. All you need is a DA sander, some sanding pads (anywhere between 80 grit and 220 grit, ask the paint shop what they think is best) as well as a couple of Scotch Brite pads to hand sand where the sander can't get into. Also, if you're going to have it painted professionally I would pay the extra money to have the paint shop prime the truck when they paint it. They have way better materials than what you can get in a spray can.

Nice truck, but you will have one problem: With the 35" tires your steering box will try (and possibly succeed) to pull the bolts through the frame rail. Add a 3" drop pitman arm for more leverage and it's an accident waiting to happen. Keep an eye on it, especially the bolt directly above the sway bar bushing, or reinforce that part of the frame with a piece of 3/16" steel to prevent it before it happens. Other than that, is your truck just a looker, or are you planning to take it off road as well?

Only 48 hours? Gee, I would have bought it every time I borrowed it, then. Advance (part of the same chain as O'Reilly) gives you 45 days.

Good point. :doh:

He wasn't driving a Comanche, was he?

:agree: With the inverted Y steering setup our Jeeps use, lift causes toe-in. Too much toe-in can induce death wobble. (Speaking from experience here. After lifting 4" I had death wobble at only 30mph so bad it fried the alternator bearings, dropped one of my sun visors and popped the face plate of he radio off. After eliminating any other possible causes first, one at a time, I found I had 2" toe in.)

I have a stock one. Doesn't look like much, but it's been doing its job. Little dented up over the years, though.

I have had a smoking hot wheel from both sticking brakes, as well as a seized unit bearing. Once I ignored a consistent pulling to the right, 20 miles later my right front wheel came off while going 60 mph. :eek:

Went to install the Durango steering box and hit a snafu. The aluminum spacer between the frame and steering box needs to be shimmed out about 1/8" to clear the larger diameter box. I got some 14 gauge 1/2x7/8 bushings and will JB weld two of them on each bolt tower. Gives me just over 1/8".

Seems like you eliminated the other possibilities,so yes, probably the water pump.

Thermostat stuck closed or low coolant level.

Was in the local Pull-a-Part yesterday collecting parts to get my truck back on the road. First off was a Durango steering box. First two Durangos I spotted had rack-and-pinion steering. Third one used a conventional steering box (which I got), but it uses just three holes to mount it, not four. Then off to a ZJ to get two unit bearings and both sway bar links as I got tired of waiting for someone (not JeepcoMJ) to send me a pair he owes me after 6 months. I have since been to Chicago and Detroit without them, and decided I was NOT going to Columbus, GA unless I had a pair installed. No more swaying side to side at 75mph. Also got another temp sender off a 90 XJ to see if the gauge in the Purple People Eater reading low is a sender problem or a gauge problem (or possibly wiring). Have not yet installed it as it's been raining all day today. While browsing around I came across a 4 cylinder stick shift (1990) Dakota. Thinking I had found the holy grail of bellhousings I looked underneath only to find the familiar NP model tag we all see on out transfer cases. Turns out is has a NP A535 transmission. Aren't they supposed to have an AX15? Or is the bellhousing from this transmission interchangeable with that from an AX15?

I did forget that yes, the nose on an 8.25" is 1"longer than that on a D35. But I believe a D44 is also an inch longer.

Comanche 44 is a bolt in, but as stated earlier is rare and will cost you more. Cherokee 44 is easier to find, but still not all that common. 97 and newer Cherokee 8.25 is pretty common and can be had for cheap (I paid $100 for the 3.55 geared one under my Comanche, got the 4.10 one that's under my Cherokee for free). Just make sure it has the same ratio gears as the 35 it will be replacing. Both a Cherokee 44 or 8.25" need the same work: spring perches and shock mounts cut off (can be done with a $20 angle grinder and a cutting disk, then ground smooth with a grinding disk). and new spring perches welded on in the correct location. If you're going to stay spring under axle, factory perches can be had cheap (like $8 or something). Find a buddy with a big welder and buy him a case of beer to weld them on, or pay a local welding shop $20 to do it for you.

I have seen one cut open, and they seem to be good filters, Made in China to Purolator specs. Definitely better than the ecore filters made by Champion and sold under many different brand names.