mvusse

Replaced driver side front axle u joint. The Purple People Eater is ready for a trip to Canada this weekend.

Put the passenger side parking brake mechanism back where it belongs and replaced the (ceased) adjuster.

Replaced the bearing in the idler pulley. Third one i three years.

Have you ever registered the truck? As in got plates for it so you could drive it?

Don't know offhand what brand, but a friend of mine installed a header on his Cherokee and had to take it off again as it wasn't clearanced for the front driveshaft like the stock downpipe is. Would have worked fine on a 2wd, though.

Drain the oil, pour in a bottle of sodium silicate (water glass), run it until it ceases.

Ditto. I drove a 26' box truck to DC to deliver furniture. I got stuck in stop and go traffic on 270 20 miles from the beltway at 5:30am. The beltway was gridlocked all day long that day. Changing lanes was fun; every time I just about had a hole beside me to fit into a car pulled into it.

If any of the wheels are touching pavement, as in when using a dolly, most stated including Ohio require the towed vehicle to have insurance and valid plates, so a trailer may be the way to go. What is your planned route?

To put things in perspective, having a shaft shortened and rebalanced cost me $120 (including a new u joint). The last shaft I had made from scratch cost me over $300. Then again, the custom made one uses a 3" x .187 Chromoly tube (that's 3/16" thick!) that alone cost over $100. It was worth it, though, as the @$$ end of the truck was rolling left to right and right to left on a rock without denting or bending the shaft this time. I have a few stock and "stock like" ones that look either like a candy cane, or like someone took a sledge hammer to them because of rocks getting in my way. And one stock one twisted in half when I experienced wheel hop/axle wrap during a rear wheel stand. Which way you go and how much money you want to spend all depends on what the truck will be used for.

the Cherokees changed at some point between 94 and 96. My old 94 has the same style seats brackets as the Comanche uses, although shaped differently to match a different floor pan. These are easily modified between MJ and XJ by mixing the top and bottom sliders. My 96 Cherokee bolts through the front into a floor "bulkhead" like I believe the ZJ Grand Cherokees do. May actually be identical. These brackets and sliders don't seem to be anything alike at all to the MJ ones.

I agree that it may well be the frame end of the track bar. But if it is, the problem is most likely a wallowed out hole in the track bar bracket, and replacing the track bar itself won't fix the problem. I have now owned 2 Cherokees and 2 Comanches, ranging from 1987 to 1996 and 79,000 miles (one of he 87s, surprisingly) to 187,000 miles (the newest, 1996 one). They have ALL had to have the track bar frame BRACKET replaced because of a wallowed out hole. Upside is, I now have spare track bars for my stock MJ.

I don't know if it matters. My 87 4.0 4x4 had a 2.5" or so diameter thin walled (.083 or .095) tube that worked just fine until I decided to park it on a rock. My 87 2.5 4x2 converted to 4x4 had a 5" or so thick walled tube that almost looks like well casing and weighs about 50 pounds. Was shortened by the P.O. who started the 4x4 conversion, and fixed by my local drivetrain shop to fix a problem with the u joints being slightly out of phase as well as balance it. Now that it's been fixed I haven't had any problem with it either. Having the 2wd one shortened is probably the less expensive option.

I wouldn't hang it behind the 242. I'd put it between the transmission and transfer case.

When it comes to vehicle titles, Ohio is surprisingly painless. There's also a state (Rhode Island?) where vehicles older than 15 years don't even need a title.

I would NOT order them from Summit, as they are way overpriced. If you look at the notes under "application", the $15.95 does NOT include the link itself. For the link itself you need to buy the $37.95 one. Both Advance and Autozone sell the correct end links for around $17 or so with a lifetime warranty. Oh, and what Don said. Buy the newer ones that are a bit longer. The still work find at stock height, but can also handle ~2 or 3" lift.

Ask 89eliminator about Rusty's leaf springs or dealing with them on a warranty issue.

To err is human, but to really @%& something up takes an organized government.

With the 235s, stock 3.55 gears for the 4 speed I got 27-28 mpg at 60, but only 19 going 75. You have to be careful, though, as the speedometer will be reading about 5mph low at highway speeds. Odometer also reads 7% low for the same reason. After I swapped in a 5 speed, but keeping the 3.55 gears, mileage at 60 stayed the same, but it now gets 24 when running 75mph. Mixed mileage I get 20-21; I do a fair bit of town and short distance driving. It's only 3.4 miles to work. The 235s also fill the wheel wells much better than 205s would. Still need to get some Spidertrax wheel spacers for the rear, though, as I think the wheels sit too far back into the wheel wells.

I run mine of 8" rims with 4" backspacing. That would be the same as a 10" rim with 5" backspacing. A LOT of 10" rims come with 3.75" backspacing however (like the Streetlocks my 33" highway tires are on) and they make the tires stock WAY out and put an immense amount of stress on the unit bearing. Be prepared to replace a few every year.

Jim, maybe in Colorado the bumpers stay solid. Here in Ohio any original bumper still surviving to this day would have completely rotted away from the inside with the paint holding the outer layer of rust together. If the OP is from California it all depends how much snow they get and if they salt the roads when it does.

A lot of the 4.0s came with 215 or 225. My 4.0 was supposed to have 225 but had 235 when I got it (35x12.50 now), my 2.5 is supposed to have 205, also had 235 when I got it. Actually still does. My Cherokee is supposed to have 215 but had 225 when I got it (Now 31x10.50, hoping to find some 16" stock rims to run 265/75R16, or about 32x10.50). My old Cherokee was supposed to have 225 but had 235. New owner swapped those out for 215.

Truck can do it, but install a class III or class IV hitch first. Class II would be pretty close to the limit, but could technically do it. Class I (2000 pound limit) won't do it. Bumper mounted ball should not be used for anything larger than a cement mixer.

There are THREE vin plates on a Comanche. They all should match. But yes, very illegal and not the smartest thing to post in a public forum.

Lwb shocks go from the FRONT of the axle, angled forward, swb shocks go from the rear of the axle angled rearward. The u bolts plates that the shocks mount to are swapped left to right/right to left between the two sizes beds, putting the shock mount either in front of the axle or behind it.

I have a mostly stock 2.5 Comanche. Bit larger than stock tires (235/75R15) and a 5 speed with overdrive, but 4.55 gears, not 4.10. I get 24mpg at 70, 27-28 at 60 and mixed driving it's hanging right around 20. With the wider 31s and more mass to get rolling, I would expect around 18 for mixed driving.