mvusse

Grand Cherokee D35 disk brakes only need the center hole enlarged for the 8.25" larger diameter axle tube to bolt onto a 8.25". Bolt holes line up perfectly. I used a 2.75" hole saw acting like a "centering bit" stacked inside a 3" to drill them out. Other people have used a dremel or die grinder. Either way, easy as pie. Don't know about disk brake options for a D44 as I never messed with one.

Went up to 3.29 today :fs1: Sparkles is running on fumes. Pig is not a practical daily driver anymore neither is my camper van Purple People Eater needs to be parked to drop transmission and transfer case.

Also, if your radiator has a temp sensor in the tank (driver side) for the auxiliary fan, the newer ones don't have a hole for it, also some have a spot in the casting that can be drilled out for one. Another solution for this is a HO thermostat housing that has the temp sensor. But physically it will fit.

The 8.8 is too narrow for the wheels to clear the inside of the wheel wells (they work in Cherokees, though), so you'd need wheel spacers. You also need to adapt the flange yoke to your driveshaft, either with a 1310/1350 conversion u joint, or with a 1310 flange yoke (off a crown vic?). Don't know about driveshaft length. Another option that is cheap and easy to come by because there are millions of them in the junk yards is a Chrysler 8.25" out of a Cherokee. If you get a 97 or newer one the 29 spline shafts and gears are nearly as large as a D44, the axle tube is actually larger. Overall pretty much identical in strength. Exact same width as your D35, but the nose is 1" longer, so your driveshaft may need to be shortened a bit. 96 and older use thinner 27 spline shafts that are just marginally stronger than D35 ones. Don't know what you plan to use your truck for, but my 8.25" has survived for a few years now (this past year with a locker) running 35" tires going off road once a month or more. Front axle, however, is a different story.

Still 3.07, but south of here has dropped to 3.12,

Got mine covered in mu top to bottom.

I do know without modifying the hole in the door, a 1992 (91?) and newer lock (single Chrysler style key for both doors and ignition) will not fit correctly in a 90 (91?) and older door using the GM style AMC keys with separate ones for the ignition and for the doors.

3.07 here and north, 3.25 south of here starting about 2 miles away.

I tried Red Wings, as well as Rockies. They just don't fit my feet right. I like Wolverines for just about anything, and had a pair of Danner boots that were very comfortable. Never tried Ecco, though. Currently wearing a pair of garbage Nike tennis shoes. Starting to fall apart after only two months. Have had a pair of Head Games ones that lasted a good while, and might try New Balance for my next pair.

Front axle is back together. Beside a horrible wear pattern from improperly set up gears, there's nothing wrong in there. Which is bad. That means I got major problems in the transfer case.

Pulled front passenger side shaft.

Removed front drive shaft and driver side axle shaft from the PPE before I ran out of time. Something big time wrong either in the front axle or transfer case. But I can't tear the transfer case out and still drive it, so checking front axle first.

If you're swapping everything, you will need a different sending unit. Cherokee one will not fit in a stock Comanche tank because it is mirror image and the pan in the bottom of the tank gets in the way. Stores will tell you they sell Comanche ones, but they don't. They think Comanche and Cherokee interchange and don't know about the mirror image problem. HOWEVER, a (the) Cherokee unit SHOULD fit inside an aftermarket Comanche tank WITHOUT the pan. Pay attention when ordering, because after market tanks are available both with and without pans. If you're only swapping the block, keeping the Renix injection system and electronics, there is nothing wrong with using the sending unit and pump you have now.

What's funny to me is, over the lifetime of the vehicle, the Prius causes many times more pollution that the truck does.

Fixed the radiator and got mud out of the bead of one of the tires. Now just a new front axle shaft and I'll be ready to wheel again.

There is nothing between 1 mbps and 12 mbps? 1 will probably not be satisfying, but 12 will be overkill. 3mbps will probably do you fine.

Three aw4s I know of: 1987-1990 1991-1996 1997-2001

I think it is a crime for a heater core to be installed in such a way to make it easy to replace. I have done the front on my Suburban, which was almost impossible, and did the rear one twice. The factory installs the rear heater cores on 92 through 99 Suburbans before the rear glass goes in. THE ONLY WAY TO GET TO HALF THE SCREWS IS BY REMOVING THE REAR GLASS. Be glad this was on a Comanche, as they are relatively painless compared to some other vehicles.

They do. Dash temp sensor is in the same place as Renix engines.

Put the transfer case back up where it belongs, A transfer case drop is a band aid for Cherokees with short rear driveshafts. Comanches do not need it. It also makes the front driveshaft angles worse, weakens the cross member mounting and puts added stress on the engine mounts. It also makes the rear driveshaft angles wrong unless you get wedges or longer shackles. Even with 4.5" lift you need an aftermarket track bar. Control arm drop brackets will work with the stock control arms, but IMO are a bad idea if you take this truck offroad as they like to catch on rocks. If no drop brackets then you need lower AND upper control arms. You have lower ones, but not upper ones. If the new lower arms are fixed, they will not be the correct length for the additional 2" you're planning on. To go along with the 4.5" lift you also need longer shocks and brake hoses, same as moving up to 6.5". Sway bar drop brackets should be okay, but everyone I know (including two of my own vehicles) run the sway bar in the stock position with longer quick disconnect ends on it. Whether you should leave the front at 4.5" and bastard pack the rear with Cherokee leafs to match the front with a SOA conversion, or leave the rear spring packs intact and add spacers to the front all depends on what size tires on what backspacing wheels you want to run, how much if any cutting you're willing to do to the fenders, and what you plan to use your truck for. But no matter what, you do not have all required parts to lift the front correctly.

I abuse my 87 mercilessly about once a month with 35" tires and dual lockers. The 21 spline output on the transmission has never once been an issue yet. I have grenaded front u joints, busted front axle shafts, broken a front driveshaft at the double cardan joint and twisted a rear driveshaft in half, but the transmission/transfer case have been fine. $175 with transfer case attached plus a spare case is a good deal.

It could even be a consistently missing cylinder due to bad spark plug or plug wire. Or play in the rear axle pinion. But I agree with checking tire balance first.

My one 87 MJ had the newer style Cherokee seats in it. It had wood blocks bolted to the floor, with the seats bolted to the blocks. Beside wood not being structurally sound enough to hold the seat in case of accident, another problem is that (at 6' 5") my head was almost against the headliner and I was looking through the very top edge of the windshield.

That's why I removed the dust shields on my truck. ;)

I'm guessing mud/grit got inside the drums and ground all the brake material off the shoes.