mvusse

33x10.50 will work okay at 4.5" lift on the stock rims but you would have to regear the axles to make the 4 cylinder want to push them. Overdrive would be useless without a regear. Budged boost and 31s is a pretty good match for the factory 4.10 gears for fuel mileage. That being said, the 4 cylinder is pretty gutless no matter what. Deeper gears can make it feel peppier at the expense of mileage.

If it's not getting enough, it could be pump, sock, filter, clogged line or regulator. If it's getting too much it's the regulator or ECM. The pump is supposed to pump more than the engine needs. The pressure is bled off by the regulator and returned to the tank via the return line. Also, the sock is supposed to be replaced whenever a new pump is installed, and failure to do this voids the warranty on a new pump.

Fuel pump or filter. You did replace the fuel pump sock when you replaced the pump, right?

Looking at it more closely, I have to agree. And I know from experience they (at least the 29 spline ones) can handle monthly abuse with 35s no problem. Don't know what their limit is.

I believe he is talking about a reply in a thread about a craigslist ad.

Ignoring drivetrain drag, rolling resistance and air resistance, peak efficiency is at the same rpm as the torque peak. Add in the other things and it ends up being slightly below the torque peak. Once you pass the torque peak gas mileage will take a nose dive. the torque peak on the HO engines being so high explains why my 96 Cherokee bone stock got 22 mpg (averaged over an 800 mile trip) running 70, but 21 mpg (again averaged over the same 800 mile trip in the opposite direction) running 60, even though the 60 mph run went down 1000 feet elevation and the 70mph trip went the other direction, ending 1000 feet higher than the start. All I know is that my 4 cylinder, running 235/75R15 tires used to get 19 mpg at 70mph. Now after the addition of an overdrive gear but still running the same 3.55 gears it gets 24mpg at 70mph. Mileage at 60mph seems to have gone from 27 to 28, but with a decimal added are close enough as to be identical (27.4, 27.7) due to rounding errors and never being able to fill the tank to the exact same level. I was originally going to regear it to 4.10 after the addition of 5th gear until I realized 4.10 in 5th gear on an ax5 is the exact same final drive ratio as 3.55 in 4th gear. It would have put me back at 19mpg....

The Renix gets best fuel economy at lower rpms. With the stock 3.55 gears and 235/75R15 tires (a bit bigger than yours) I got 24mpg as long as I stayed at 60mph. Going 70 I only got 19.with 4.10 gears the engine rpms are about the same going 60 as going 70 with the stock gearing.; you would love the performance but not the mileage. For optimum gas mileage at highway speeds (70mph) you would probably want 3.07 gears out of a 6 cylinder/manual transmission Comanche or Cherokee, but performance would suck. All around I would stick with the stock gears.

I currently run 6.5" lift, 35" tires and a HP D30.My diff housing has plenty of scrapes, and I have bent a few tie rods. But I also have a few scraped and dents on my front driveshaft and broke my last one. My lower control arms show major trail rash also. When playing on rocks it doesn't matter what you hit first. Once the driver side front tire comes off a rock, the vehicle comes down upon it, sometimes directly behind the axle. If it only matters what you would hit first I would also not have a scratched and bent transfer case skid, large dent in gas tank, or killed three driveshafts before I finally had a rock proof one made (3/16 wall DOM tubing).

And your front driveshaft will be down in harms way.

Stock replacement bushings for the control arms are only $8 or so. If you want to replace the control arms themselves, I like these, even though they are more expensive. RE also makes solid ones to for a bit less.

No clue what the limit of a D35 is as I swapped mine out a while ago,but it's most likely well below 39" tires. As for the front axle, I beefed mine up to withstand 35" tires and it's not working. So far I busted 3 u joints, 4 axle shafts, more unit bearings than I can remember, a few balljoints a set of pinion bearings and an Aussie locker. I could beef it up more with chromoly shafts and CTM joints but that would cost more than a D60 swap. And the unit bearings would still be a problem. There's no way that D30 would survive 39" tires for very long.

:agree:

Did you reset the toe-in after installing the spacers?

I was talking about the hydraulic line for the service brake running in front of the axle underneath the leaf springs. But now you mention it, the parking brake cable looks like it's just waiting to be crushed between the overload leaf and the rest of the pack.

Yesterday: Took an NP242 with a SYE started on it (and foobarred) with a 1/4" hole 1/2" deep and off center in the output shaft. That's the reason I got a hold of it for $50. Played around with a Dremel and tungsten-carbide bit fr a few minutes, then up onto the drill press and I now have a 3/8" hole 2" deep within 1/32" of center. Close enough for me. Still need to drill out the hole in the yoke to 1/2" and tap the shaft for a 7/16" bolt. Also went through 2 cutting disks clearancing a WJ lower control arm and corner of a front shock mount on the axle to allow it to droop as far as a stock control arm (actually goes a bit further now). Need to buy some more cutting disks to do the other side. Sparkles is starting to come along.

I would rerun the brake line either along the back of the axle or over top of the springs. Too much chance of it getting damaged where it runs.

The only times my front end bounces is when I launch it at the top of a hill climb. Never experiences front wheel hop on rock crawls nor has my daughter (driving my truck) in mud pits. I do have rear wheel hop when I'm pretty much standing on the rear axle trying to climb rock surfaces. I guy I have wheeled with both at Jeepskool and Badlands has long arms that are more like radius arms (upper control arm connects to lower control arm. He complains about the front suspension unloading whenever going uphill. So my suggestion is IF anyone decides to go with long arms, to go for an actual three link or four link and not a radius arm type setup.

Used one once or twice. Construction is very similar if not identical to the standard Purolater filters.

I run 6.5" with short arms without a problem, and the truck rides like a Caddilac. A friend has a Cherokee with 9" lift and short arms. I still have no clue as to the original source for 6.5" being the limit for short arms, as I have found these claims to be unsubstantiated. Most are talking about a harsh ride, but I found ride to be affected by the shocks way more than the angle of the control arms.

The difference between 3.54 and 3.55 is smaller than the difference between some of your tires due to air pressure fluctuations and tread wear. We are talking about a difference less than 1/5 of a percent (0.01976). Assuming all your tires are exactly the same, on a straight road in 4wd, for every mile the front wheels travel, the rears will try to travel travel about 10 feet less. That's 10 feet difference over a MILE. For all practical purposes they are the same, and are what came from the factory with a 4.0 4wd automatic and D44 rear axle (heavy duty rear axle, towing package, big ton/metric tonne package...).

The ACOS will lift at least 1.5" (smallest setting). Coupled with 4.5" springs that makes 6" front lift. (up to 8.25" if needed). Also at stock height the MJ is raked forward, so you need more lift in front if you want it to sit level. You're probably good with those springs and the ACOS. But you will also need adjustable track bar as well as upper and lower control arms and some sort of taller sway bar links (quick disconnect?).

I was taught when parked facing down hill to always turn the wheels far right. If there's a curb it will stop the vehicle, if not it will still roll away from the road. Also in a stick shift, put it in 1st gear. And when my F100 was temporarily without a parking brake due to an even worse design (pedal bent almost 90 degrees when I tried to set it) I kept a chunk of 4x6 behind the seat. But all of that is beside the point. Sucks to damage your truck like that. Damage is probably more than it's value.

Okay, so I'm working on the front suspension of my (going to be my daughter's) truck, and hit a small snag. It is running 31x10.50 tires with about 3" lift. Was going to install a pair of fully boxed mondo stronger WJ lower control arms to better clear the tires on full lock steering, but I noticed they will severely limit droop. Just sitting at ride height the top of the control arm is probably already going to be hitting the axle bracket. So what's the safer way to go: cut some of the control arm bracket (and probably the shock mount as well), or notch the top of the control arm to clear these?

Jawz JP Customs made mine: They can customize it any way you like, or build one to your design.

I took disk brakes of a 96 ZJ Dana 35, bored out the center hole to 3" and mounted them on my 98 8.25" under the MJ, Bolted right up. That's all I know.