mvusse

I stacked a 2.75" hole saw inside a 3" one. The inside one acted as a "centering pin" while the outside one cut the hole bigger. Turned the drill press down to 250 RPM and I was done in 30 seconds total for both backing plates and both brackets.

The 8.8 is a bit narrower. They will kinda work on a Cherokee, but on a Comanche wheel spacers are a must as the tires will hit the inside of the wheel well without them. You will also need some way to go from the 1310 series u joint on the driveshaft to the flange on the 8.8. Either an adapter u joint to go the to stock Ford one on the 8.8, or a flange for a 1310 series joint.

I run ZJ D35 disks on my 8.25" Had to drill the center hole out from 2.75" to 3" and it bolted right on. Even the regular booster can push enough fluid, but you need to increase the pressure to the rear as disk brakes need more than drum brakes. You can use the load sensing valve to accomplish this. I run a 95 Dakota hose on my Comanche, SOA as does a buddy in his XJ with ~5" lift. I run a TJ rear hose on my XJ currently with about 4" lift. The TJ one is a bit longer yet than the Dakota one. And yes, the 8.25" axle tube is 3" diameter, so it takes 3" u bolts and spring perches made for a 3" axle tube. DO NOT USE THE XJ PERCHES IN THEIR STOCK POSITION. THEIR SPACING IS NOT CORRECT FOR A COMANCHE!

The site censored me. I did not type fool. I called him a Richard.

The Honcho was a "performance package" (stickers and rollbar) for the mid 70s to early 80s J10 full size truck. Never heard of a Honcho 2.

Don't know much about the vacuum system on a 2.5. I would swap the filter now. As in right now. If the filter is the problem there is no point running it until you damage the engine. If the filter is not the problem you spend $6 or so for the piece of mind that you have a good filter on it that shouldn't fail. Walmart here in Ohio sells Supertech oil, but only has Fram filters. I wonder if the Supertech filters are just a rebranded Fram.

As both Pete and a buddy of mine with a TJ experienced, Dana 35s can fail quite well just cruising along on the highway. Don't need to wheel your truck for it to happen.

You will need larger tires or s different speedometer gear in the transmission output for the speedometer to read correctly. But PLEASE don't waste your money having a D35 regeared. It will cost you between $500 and $1000 for an axle that's barely worth it's weight in scrap. Instead find a Cherokee with a 4 cylinder, 5 speed stick shift with a rear axle OTHER than a D35, buy that axle, cut off the spring perches and shock mounts and have new perches welded on. This should cost a total of less than $200 and you get a better axle at the same time.

Officer is being a fool.

I would try another filter. A good one like Wix, Purolater Pur-One or Napa (which is a rebranded Wix).

It's no cooler down here. My little window air conditioner has been working overtime and it is still 82 degrees in the living room. Man I miss my central air! Anyway, does anyone who is going to Pete's have a Comanche/Cherokee shifter for an AX4/AX5? The pin on the bottom of my one shifter is too short (meant for AX15?) causing it to pop out of the cup in the transmission. My other shifter (from a YJ) sits too far forwards and hits the dashboard in 1st, 3rd and 5th.

It did this both before and after the oil change? What weight oil?

First post states he replaced the one in the head.

I pulled mine from an 87 XJ Wagoneer. The speedo cable on both my 87 MJs also have the clip to latch onto the old ones. They fit in the newer ones, but don't latch in place on those.

Only the V8 ZJ one is an upgrade. ZJs with the 4.0 have the exact same one you already have.

Buttoned up the bottom of the truck after swapping out the AX4 for an AX5. Still need to fill the transmission, transfer case and crank case as well as reinstall the center console. As a bonus, I found 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 10W30 API SL at Wally World for $25. Usually I have to get 4 stroke motorcycle oil (API SJ) by the quart. I will never use SM or SN in my Jeeps.

Comanche leaf springs need more travel in the shackle than the short Cherokee one can provide. I have tried Cherokee shackles once and under full droop the shackle is stretched so far forwards that when weight comes back on the suspension the shackle tried to flip up in the forward position, With a limiting strap they could work. Longer aftermarket Cherokee shackles (like the boomerang ones) should work.

I'm only about 3.5 hours from you. Guessing I'll get there areound 7pm or so. As long as I can have my hot tea morning and afternoon I'm usually good to go; will bring milk (for the tea) myself, but would be nice if there's space for it in the fridge. Will probably also have some Mike's with me for the evening as I don't do beer. Can also bring some pork chops for on the grill; pizza sounds good for lunch Saturday or Sunday. Don't have a cell phone to call you when I get close, though.

Any particular time you would prefer us to show up? Before? After?

An adjustable track bar does not prevent death wobble. Death wobble can be caused among other things by play in the track bar and has nothing to do with it's length. But regardless, with 6" lift you definitely need a longer than stock one, adjustable or not. As for springs, you usually get what you pay for. Also, are you going SOA? I don;t know of anybody who makes 6" MJ lift springs for the rear.

Wallowed out hole in track bar frame mount.

The first time I did it I removed the shocks, brake hoses, track bar and lower control arms and had a heckuva time getting the lower control arms reconnected (same problem). I used a pry bar to get the one done and a ratchet strap for the other one. A few weeks ago I did it again on another vehicle, this time I left all the control arms connected and used a spring compressor.

Bead locks are one thing, but the tires themselves screwed to the rim is something I have never seen and would not trust.

Only from V8 equipped ZJs. The 4.0 ones use the same components as Comanches and Cherokees. Also the lift will only be about 1" unless your springs are badly worn and sagging.

There is no real difference between an XJ and a ZJ front axle. If the "shimmy" is REAL bad and he has to come to a stop to stop it, it sounds like death wobble to me. Could be all of the above mentioned and also play in (bad) unit bearings or worn bushings in the control arms. But the first thing I would check is the track bar and the frame end bracket for the track bar.