mvusse
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Everything posted by mvusse
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I dumped Verizon a few years ago. There service was great, but prices are horrible and products suck. I was paying $69.95 plus tax and government fees for my telephone, including long distance to Canada (lot of family there) for 5 cents a minute. They tried to sell me ADSL for $59.95 with speeds up to 768Kb/s while I was getting 5Mbps from Time Warner for $20 less per month. After spending 6 months installing a new bundle of wires in the alley beside my house they offered 1.5Mb/s and finally 3Mb/s. But by now Time Warner is up to 50Mb/s without price increases. Don't know why Verizon charges what they do. When I first moved here I had pretty much the same package for $27.95 when Verizon was still called GTE. My parents have 15Mb/s adsl in rural Canada for $15 and a friend in France paid about the equivalent of $15 for 100Mbps fiber into his house.
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Don't think so. Three-wheeling means a lack of flex. ;)
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If the title is signed and notarized, it shouldn't matter, although here in Ohio you pay $5 extra if it has been notarized more than 30 days ago.
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Stock NV 3500 and 3550 are rated for 300 ft-lbs of torque, but parts are hard to come by. Stock AX15 should be good to 350 ft-lbs (according to Novak), and they can be built up to 420-450 ft-lbs. They also adapt to a GM small block relatively easily. Either way, I don't think your truck has enough weight to use 300 ft-lbs of torque. Your tires will break loose before the engine gets there with the excess torque being "burnt off" with the rubber, so there shouldn't be an issue. Now if you go with 42" tires and front and rear lockers, THEN it might be put to the test.
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$25 for just the driver side?
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I need a set of driver side seat mounting brackets. Just the parts that go from the slider to the floor; don't need the slider itself.
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99 Cherokee the caliper should bolt directly to the steering knuckle. Changeover was ~91 IIRC.
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The older ones use a caliper bracket that bolts to the steering knuckle. 91 and newer the caliper bolts to the knuckle itself.
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140-Miles from home . . . HELP !
mvusse replied to AMC-MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
If you can fit the closed end of the wrench on the bolt, you can hook the closed end of the other one onto it's jaws to extend the handle. -
My dog is currently in the outside kennel so I can eat in peace. Will let him in after my belly is full.
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140-Miles from home . . . HELP !
mvusse replied to AMC-MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
If the nub is still there, replace the joint as well as the straps and strap bolts. 140 miles from home, better safe than sorry. -
Dealt with many a black bear in northern Ontario and never met one agressive enough to go after anything even remotely the size of a cow. They mostly eat berries, plants, frogs and fish. Sometimes small rodents when they can catch them.
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You will be 45 minutes south of me on the way east, then an hour north of me on the way back. Wouldn't mind meeting up in Cambridge, OH for a bite to eat at cracker barrel if it works out. Also have a couch available if you need to crash for the night.
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Most stores sell Cherokee senders and there computers tell them Comanche ones are the same. THEY ARE NOT. But supposedly a Cherokee one does fit in an aftermarket Comanche tank that does not have the pan in the bottom.
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First one is butt ugly and doesn't tie into the frame enough. Also the winch mount looks weak. Second one looks a bit better and definitely stronger.
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Doesn't strip out as easily as a Phillips screw or Allen bolt. But I still take a good old fashioned 6 point or 12 point bolt over a Torx any day if there's enough space to get a socket over the head.
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OP said he has a manual transmission. The rod should go to a lever behind the key.
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Axle shaft seems angled down a LOT. What'd you do? Welded MJ D30 knuckles knuckles onto a Ford D44 axle?
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13 pound radiator cap will work, but it's supposed to have a 16 pound one.
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Auto or manual?
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It is in the driver side back corner (near firewall) of the head, single wire coming off it (don't remember what color). How are you diagnosing overheat? Gauge shows hotter than you like? Coolant boiling? If the latter, does the system hold the correct pressure? Anything up to 245 degrees is within operating specs. Properly working system should not boil until at least 265 degrees.
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If it's blowing out of the pressure bottle, it's boiling. Even straight water at 13 PSI doesn't boil until around 250 degrees or so, higher at 16 PSI. If you're boiling at 220 degrees, the system obviously does NOT hold 16 PSI. And when you changed the radiator, what did you fill the system with. If you used tap water instead of distilled I'm willing to bet your nice new radiator is plugged up with brown goop already. Hornbrod could probably have had a bit more tact in his answer.
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here's something that bugs me :
mvusse replied to shawn's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Well, yeah. That's because the moon is on. DUUUH!
