mvusse

That's designed for a turbo, but I don't see why it wouldn't work between the valve cover breather and air intake. As for oil in the air filter, eventually it will restrict airflow to the point that you will see diminished performance and possibly increased fuel consumption, especially at high rpms. At idle the engine sucks little enough air it wouldn't make much of a difference.

He's not on here, but I have met him at Cable Creek year before last. Don't know how far along he is with his truck, but last I heard it had been in the garage for over three years and not anywhere near rolling yet. Steel Valley 4x4 (which he is still president of) pretty much fell apart last year with most of the members starting up a new site, http://hardcore4x4hooligans.com. In the process, the Cable Creek events seem to have disappeared, which is a shame.

They used the language filter to do it live.

Obviously this guy has NO idea about regulations with regards to moving oversize loads across public roads.

I run a XJ 29 spline 8.25" with ZJ disc brakes in the rear, but wouldn't mind a D44. Run a disconnect 30 with disco delete and 5-760x joints in the front, but have gone past it's limits a few times. What scares me most about it, though, is the unit bearings. I already lost a wheel on the freeway once, and am replacing 2 or 3 a year. Hope to upgrade to high pinion D44 front axle made from a mixture of Ford, Chevy and Jeep parts WITHOUT unit bearings.

Not positive about the 2" lift on a Cherokee, but the 3/4" on a Comanche is from personal experience on both of my Comanches. I installed a set on the trail rig, and recently I removed a set from my DD. And for the math: The shackle is only ~2" longer than a Comanche shackle. That would lift a Comanche 1" IF the axle was centered on the spring. But it isn't; it's closer to a 40/60 split. That would give you 0.8". And then the angles of the spring and the shackle come into play and it gets real tricky. Simple tape measure to the rescue: 0.75" give or take 1/8.

2" Chevy drop shackles will lift a Cherokee about 2". They will lift a Comanche about 3/4".

That is a two year old article. But where did you get the $16 per barrel from? 3.65 billion barrels is what the US uses in less than half a year.

96 has that funky slip joint boot thingy on the end of the TC. Different length output bearing retainer housing. = shortened driveshaft. That would work with the right DS off the 96 up. Where are you going to find a 96 MJ?

Yep, the Renix uses a metric (19mm I believe, but I guess it could be 20) thread while the HO uses Imperial 3/4" thread. Otherwise the filters are the same. I never buy my filter at Walmart though, as they only sell the POS Fram around here. I use Purolater Pur-One from Advance.

You could also get some 1.75" spring spacers and 2" shock extensions for a less expensive option.

I just measured my stock 87 and there is ~12" difference between the axle to frame and center of rim to flare measurements. So converting the FSM numbers, from the center of the rim to the bottom lip of the rear flares: 2wd: 20.7-21.7 4wd: 21.7-22.7 With Motion Offroad 3" lift rear springs (I believe Hell Creek springs are the exact same) I had 22.5", or near the upper end of stock 4wd specs.

The changeover between the gear cuts was 93/94, so no, you can't swap input shafts.

2.5 with a4 speed manual should have had 3.55 from the factory. Sounds like you're geared a lot lower than that. I'm guessing 4.56.

An electronic flasher (also called a heavy duty flasher) is one way to solve it, and the simplest. Another way is to wire load resistors in parallel with the turn signals.

Says who, and is that for 2wd or 4wd?

ZJ D35 disc brakes are very easily adapted to an 8.25". The center hole just needs to be enlarged from 2.75" to 3" to fit over the larger axle tube. After that it will bolt up to the 8.25" flange without further mods.

Instead of cutting out an arch, cut straight slits into the arch, then fold them over.

Why a Grand rear (D35, or aluminum D44) and not a 97+ XJ rear 8.25" (29 spline).

Found it:

FSM specifies stock measurements and where you measure (pretty much axle to frame). The info is floating around here somewhere.

Comparing your photo to photos of my 87 4wd as well as my new (originally 2wd, which supposedly sits 1" lower than 4wd) 87, I notice two things: 1 - Rear springs seem to sit high for regular stock springs. Could be Metric Tonne leafs, or 3" lift. 2 - Front has sagged a LOT. Like 2-3". I would replace your front springs with new stock ones, or even stock V8 ZJ ones or XJ Upcountry ones, both of which sit about an inch higher than stock.

Put your 31" tires on your stock wheels (assuming they are 7" wide, not the 6" wide steelies) and no lift is needed for 31s.

My old 87 (pioneer 4.0) has a build date of November 86. My new 87 (2.5, unknown package) I don't know (yet).

Don't think I have any parts from Lowe's or Home Depot on any of my vehicles unless you want to count welding wire. I do have quite a few nuts, bolts and washers from ACE on them, though, and coolant/distilled water from Wally World.