mvusse

Wrong: http://www.arielatom.com/sales/sales At least in Ohio it can probably be registered as a rail buggy.

I have had a shortened 2wd Toyota drive shaft on mine, but since I mangled it I have a stock 4wd MJ one again. Rear axle is out of a 98 Cherokee. Front axle is out of an 89 Cherokee with 92 Cherokee steering knuckles and brakes. Font shafts out of miscellaneous XJs and ZJs. Front springs are aftermarket Control arms are aftermarket Track bar is aftermarket Front shocks are for some compact car Rear shocks are for a Toyota T100 Rear brake hose is for a 95 Dakota Front brake hoses are for a 95 YJ Rear brakes are from a 97 ZJ Shackles are meant for a Chevy Gauge cluster is from an 89 Cherokee Old front bumper was from a Cherokee Limited, current one is aftermarket. Diver side door from a Cherokee Both front fenders from a Cherokee Header panel and all parts that go with it are from a Cherokee Air filter box out of an XJ Topper I believe is for an S10 (was one it when I bought it) I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff.

You can remove the old perches yourself with an angle grinder. Any fabrication or exhaust shop should be able to weld new perches on. Shortening a driveshaft has to be done by a drive train shop, as they have the equipment to rebalance it after the work is done.

On my truck (SOA, lift shackles, rearched springs for ~8" lift in rear) I have 14" suspension travel between full droop and full compression. The slip yoke on the end of the driveshaft moves 5/8 of an inch over the entire 14" suspension travel. With the shackle in the rear, and the springs flattening out, the axle moves back as the suspension compresses, pretty much making up for the lower angle.

Perches would need to be cut off and new ones welded on in the right place, and an adapter of some sort to mate your drive shaft to the 8.8 mounting flange. May possibly need to shorten your drive shaft as well. Even so, I would not bother putting another 35 in, unless it is from an MJ (only straight bolt-in) and was given to me for free with nothing wrong with it. I would look for a D44 from an MJ first, which would be a straight bolt-in, but may still need to shorten the drive shaft, or a D44 from a 90 or older XJ Cherokee or Chrysler 8.25 from a 97 or newer one. Both of those need the perches moved and possibly the drive shaft shortened, but they are the correct width and have the correct yoke for your drive shaft.

With the length of a Comanche, and thus the length of rear drive shaft, neither SYO nor transfer case drop are needed unless you lift it ridiculously high (at least 9 inches for a shortbed, probably a foot or more for a long bed). When needed, a transfer cased drop should only be considered a temporary solution anyway, as it is hard on the motor mounts, makes the front drive shaft angles worse and lowers ground clearance. A SYE, while not needed, is still a good upgrade.

Sounds like a timing issue to me. I believe there is a difference between a Renix and a HO distributor. Since you're still using the Renix computer, you should be using the Renix distributor. Should also be using the knock sensor, although other people have successfully done without. I don't know what all sensors interchange between the two systems, but all the ones that don't should be swapped from the old engine onto the new. Also, do the ports on the old intake manifold line up with the ports on the new head? I though Chrysler moved the ports up some.

That means the axle shaft has 1/16" play between the center shaft and the c clip holding it in place. Don't worry about it.

After parking it in the heated shop at work for a day last week to melt most of the snow in the bed, I reinstalled the topper last Wednesday to keep the new snow out. Bed's no good if you can't find what you tossed in there under all that white stuff.

What feature made you select the TomTom over the Garmin? depends on what you're planning to use it for... Street driving going place-to-place = Tom Tom type would work well. If ya plan on using it for finding your way in the back country, i'd go with the magellan/garmin type. Probably the primary use will be to pull the Jeep, Or the horse over, take a reading and locate it, me, on a topographic map. Secondary use will be to confirm a location when on a search and rescue. And I do appreciate the replies and comments. Jim My Tomtom has a larger screen, more up to date maps, and is faster calculating a better route with driving time estimates that were off only 4 minutes over a 7 hour trip. Even the latest maps for my Garmin are still missing some back roads in Canada and show streets that have never existed except in the planning stage of a housing development that was never built. Oddly enough, Google shows those same streets as well.

Yeah, that Al Junior poster was quite a find. One of the greatest Indy Car drivers ever!

I own a Garmin and a Tomtom. Since I've had the Tomtom the Garmin has been sitting in a drawer.

I had the C4x4 brackets and hooks on my Comanche and after major abuse for two years I managed the slightly bend one of them. That was a 10+ mph yank at a 45 degree angle. Well worth the money. They have since been moved over to one of my Cherokees as the Comanche now has an custom bumper with recovery points. Hi country offroad used to make a different style tow hook bracket, but they may not be around anymore.

For utility, I like the extra bed capacity of the long bed. For looks, I like the short bed better. For off road, my long bed has been accused of being a mini truck as with 6.25" suspension lift front, ~7.5" rear and another 4" from 8" taller than stock tires I still drag my rear bumper all over the place. Short bed has 5" less overhang behind the rear wheels.

Typo in your subject. Font axle is a Dana 30; Dana 35 is the rear axle. Some Dana 30s use a crush sleeve, with the pinion nut setting bearing preload. Some use shims instead. I'm pretty sure in 87 they used shims, so you don't have to worry about it. As MO said, use a new nut, and not a bad idea to replace the 24 year old seal while you're there. Be aware the seal is probably rust welded to the housing and will be a bugger to get out.

What Pete said. Also, are you sure the distributor is installed correctly and not off by a tooth (or more) on the drive gear. Keep the original 87 computer? What about the knock sensor?

Don't forget to do the currency conversion. Then again, the dollars are pretty close to even right now.

Oil and gas companies will need to learn to not be greedy. But that would be like a politician learning to tell the truth.

My last house I had a 22x22 attached, and 24x32 pole barn in the back yard. Now I have a gravel driveway :( After finding gravel frozen to my backside after replacing a starter last month, I decided I'm building. Hoping to build a 24x40 pole barn, 12 foot ceilings, one 8x9 door and one 16x8 door for around $8K (materials only). Floor will have to come later. With a bit of luck I should be able to pull it off with my income tax return and a smallish (~$4k) personal loan. Eventual plan is to have a 16 foot section partitioned off from the other 24 feet, two zone heated floor and a lift in the 16' section. I just realized my garage will have a larger footprint than my (two story) house

$3.03 Monday, $3.15 yesterday, $3.12 today.

The step bumpers seem to rust from the inside out. Outside looks fine, inside is rotted. Because of this I wouldn't trust it for anything heavier than a wheelbarrow.

My 235/75R15 Wintermarks rubbed at full lock on my 87 Comanche, but they don't on my 94 Cherokee. :dunno:

10.5" wide tires will fit fine on 7" wide stock rims, and are specced for 7" to 9" wide rims.

With less backspacing the fenders may get in the way. WJ Grand Cherokee lower control arms can help to minimize the tire rub.

I don't see how the physical dimensions of the engine could matter, as you'd build the frame to fit the engine; you don't just go and build a frame, then hope some engine will fit in it.