mvusse

Defrost is where it defaults to when there is no vacuum. There are only two vacuum hoses running through the firewall to under the dashboard. One supplies vacuum to the controls, the other goes from the controls to the diverter valve under the hood. This valve serves no actual function other than being another part to break. Your problem is somewhere in the vacuum line that goes from the main vacuum feed under the hood through the firewall to the controls. If it got disconnected or broke under the hood it's an easy fix. If not you may have to tear your dash apart.

Your stove gas also? If it's electric it will be 220V.

The ABS tone ring is pressed on, and can be removed with a couple of swift hits of a hammer. Depending on unit bearing, it may need to be removed, or it may be fine to leave it in place. The housing is not machined for an oil seal, which is why a stock one won't fit. NOS (Napa Oil Seal) 11771 will fit.

Headlights and radio do not go through the ECU. Also when the truck is running it should be able to keep running off the alternator no matter how bad the battery is. I imagine the problem is somewhere between the alternator and the fuse block. Never really looked, but do our trucks have (a) fusible link(s)?

Peugeot came behind the 4.0. Behind the 2.5 would be an AX-4 or AX-5.

Swap the rear leaf springs left to right. If that doesn't change anything, swap the coils left to right. My bet is on the leaf springs.

We were at 32 users, now back to 29. Not gonna happen :(

I'm willing to bet the pop is the frame end of the track bar. Hole in the bracket is probably wallowed out. That would also explain the truck shifting sideways over the axle.

The number of teeth on both the ring and pinion gears are stamped into the outside edge of the ring gear.

Only if it has a SYE. Otherwise the pump will happily pump the fluid out the back.

For a 22 year old vehicle with 154,000 miles on it, that's outrageous. That's way more than it cost NEW.

I believe I have read somewhere the clocking is in the transmission. The transfer case would be the same.

Have a drive train shop adapt your stock drive shaft. Not cheap, though.

After having split many 3/8" drive sockets on those bolts, I have to disagree. 1/2" drive socket is a must, unless you want to run the the store to exchange a broken socket each time you need to remove a unit bearing.

Mr Heater makes a few different models of propane heaters. Some with O2 depletion sensors, some specifically designed for use in a garage. As long as there is enough O2 available for complete combustion, a properly tuned propane heater should produce only CO2 and H2O, and zero CO. Even so, while using any sort of fuel heater, it can't hurt to plug a CO monitor into one of the wall outlets. I'm planning on building my garage this spring. Possibly 20x20, but hoping to be able to go 22x22. Minimum 9' ceilings. Hope to be able to insulate below the floor and have it plumbed for radiant floor heating. Heat will come later as money becomes available for insulation, but once insulated I hope to be able to heat of off a simple 5 gallon water heater.

And again, if it is stock, a 92 MJ does not have that part. The front axle is always engaged with 4wd operation being controlled by the transfer case only.

What you describe sure sounds like DW, and the wife would be correct. No, this is not a driveline problem. This is a front suspension/steering problem. Somewhere in there something is just lose enough for a harmonic oscillation to start. Most likely track bar, but could be 50 other things as well. A new/better/bigger steering stabilizer can successfully hide DW, but would not fix the underlying issue. And yes, Eagle, a REALLY loose track bar allows too much movement for DW to occur, with the end result just being that you move the steering wheel half a turn while the truck shifts sideways before finally turning.

Looks nice and the diesels are rare. AND IT'S A 2 DOOR! But 40mpg is probably exaggerating a bit.

Automatic transmission?

As the first reply stated, the 92 model year NEVER CAME WITH A DISCONNECT FRONT AXLE. As such, the transfer case does not have a vacuum switch to operate one.

Running 33" tires I suggest looking for s D44 (difficult to find/expensive) or a 97 or newer Chrysler 8.25" rear axle out of a Cherokee. A D35 would be a grenade waiting to happen. There should be numerous ones in the junk yards. Check the gears in your current axles, as you want to match the gear ratio with what's in the front axle. For the transmission, the Peugot was junk and is difficult to find parts for. If it's an AX15, just replace with another one. If it's a Peugot, seriously think of upgrading to an AX15, but I personally don't know what all is involved in the upgrade. (pilot bushing? flywheel? clutch?). Good luck.

I have always kept the torque converter that went with the transmission, but don't know if that is correct or not.

I'm having trouble keeping my D30 together with 35s. Running and wheeling 37s means a serious front axle upgrade is necessary. Assuming the thing is rust free and dent free and the bob has been done right, someone *might* be willing to pay maybe $5k. Without pics maybe 3... Either way, at 13" lift I'd be afraid to drive it, either on or off road, without a harness and full roll cage. I'm already having trouble keeping the rubber side down with 7" lift and 11" wider than stock track.

:thumbsup:

Mine just gets me stuck in places far from public roads: or breaks down even further away, 2 hour round trip to the nearest open parts store: