mvusse

Have you thought about using the Comanche main leafs and leafes from a Cherokee for the rest of the pack? Stock Cherokee leaf springs are pretty much flat with the weight of the vehicle on them, and they are easy to find.

Be aware that over the knuckle steering most likely means no more front sway bar, as the sway bar brackets may need to be cut off the axle for the tie rod to clear,

All depends on pinion angle. I run a SOA 8.25", which is 1" longer than the stock D35 was, with re-arched springs (1" higher than stock), lift shackles (another ~.75" lift), and a YJ yoke for another 0.5" length. Total lift over stock is ~7". Between the slip yoke and nose of the pumpkin I have an extra 1.5" length. Perfect length drive shaft is ANOTHER 1" longer yet. I highly doubt 4" lift only requires a 0.25" longer drive shaft if ~7" can use 2.5". I think you will be fine.

Check out what we've been working on: http://www.jeepskoolflorida.com/

A friend of mine had a set of half bald MT tires. Cut out the tread, trimmed it to fit, and screwed it to the plastic wheels, Not the best solution, but a million times better than the stock hard plastic wheels.

Glad I don't live out west.

Non working speedo could be caused by either end of the cable having come unplugged (transfer case end happened to me during a bout of seath wobble). Could also be from a broken cable, but I've never experienced one.

The sending unit for the dummy light is just a switch: full off or full on, which translates to either extremely high oil pressure, or zero pressure. Install the correct sending unit and you should be good.

Found it: http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/1977374472.html I have an imaculant jeep comanche with new engine with paper work still under warranty it has on the odometer 140,000 miles very good body new tires, new clutch 4x4 the price is $ 3,300 or best offer great for winter, hunting,4x4 ing, or for what ever u need it for please give me a call at 719-821-3068 if intrested nice looking truck very rare not a lot around look into the comanche truck by jeep it is very well worth it will send u pics or u can test drive it my name is roger thanks.... * Location: pueblo west, colorado springs,denver * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests image 1977374472-0 image 1977374472-1 PostingID: 1977374472

So where's the link?

That is a good kit. I use their perches with a 3" axle tube cut outon a 29 spline 8.25", and their shock brackets as well, but had my u bolts custom made locally, and used junk yard XJ u bolt plates. Bolted it together under the truck, and once I had everything sitting right I tack welded it with a little wire feed welder. Then took the axle off and took it to a local welding shop to have the perches and shock mounts permanently burned on with the mother of all stick welders. Cost me $25 for the welding.

Slip yoke eliminator is a nice upgrade, but is not needed on a Comanche, even with 7" lift. Also, you speak up swapping axles to go spring over, but there are no axles out there with spring over perches spaced the correct distance apart for a Comanche. So no matter what axle you get, you STILL have to relocate the perches anyway. But to match a SOA lift in the rear you will need AT LEAST 4.5" springs in front, which means longer lower control arms, track bar, sway bar links, shocks and brake hoses. And upper control arms would not be a bad idea either. Yes, that will probably total over a grand just for the parts.

If you run 33x12.50 tires you must already have a lift on the truck. That being said, I have not heard a lot of good things about Rocky Road Outfitters.

Getting an alignment (or at least toe in adjusted) will most likely solve it. Throw the drop pitman arm in the trash.

If you did lift the front that may be the cause of it. Front lift pulles the inverted Y steering up, causing toe in. 4.5" front lift gave me 2" tow in, causing DW at speeds as low as 25mph, violently enough to fry my alternator bearings (as well as pop the front panel off the radio, , pop the sun visors out of the clips, throw the change out of the center console cubbies, pencils out of the cubby below the glove box, and fillings out of my teeth.) Reset the toe at 0 and all was well.

Been divorced for five years now. Shared parenting and we live within walking distance so my 13 year old can walk back and forth. I tell her to clean her room, she walks to her mother's house. She tells her to clean her room there, she comes back here again :roll: Her older sister is in college now and about to move out and get married. Guess she didn't learn anything from her parent :nuts: I wouldn't say we are on good terms, but we get along. Doesn't sound much like your case, though. In Ohio only one of the parents has to even just mention shared parenting, and that is what it's going to be unless one of the parties is proven to be an unfit parent. Good luck.

But if it came from the factory without skids, the transmission cross member will not have the nutserts to bolt it too, just empty holes. Will have to use a bolts, washers and regular nuts

Ditto.

Where I usually wheel is a lot of sand. Every time I went there I got sand inside the drums scraping the brake material off the shoes. Brand new brake shoes on Saturday morning, Sunday evening they were half gone. A month later I go for another weekend and they were down to the rivets. Had them replaced under warranty, and two trips later they were down to the rivets again. I converted to rear disc brakes, and 10 trips later the brake pads are noticeably thinner, but nowhere near needing replaced yet.

The fill plug is about halfway yp the differential cover. to drain it you would normally remove the cover, then clean up the mating surfaces good and put the cover back on with a bead of RTV between it and the diff. Another way would be to pump the oil out through the fill hole using a hand pump. To fill it, pour/pump/squirt the gear oil into the fill plug until it starts to run out of the hole.

After ~ 15 trips off road, abusing my locked 30 on 35s, spinning tires in mud, bouncing the axle on hill climbs and the wheels jerking violently on high traction surface while the rear is stuck in or behind something, I have had no problem with the gears or the tubes and not broken any shafts. But I'm replacing unit bearings every few months. I did stretch an ear on a stub shaft causing it to spit out the u joint cap, and on one 5-760x joint I eventually cracked two caps after which I lost the needle bearings, but the cross was still intact. Regardless, the u joints on the Waggy 44 are no stronger, as I believe they are the same joints (297/760) and the stub shafts ate barely any thicker. Guys on pirate are, in their words, "beating the $#!& out of" high pinion 30s on 35" tires without breakage as well. I see absolutely no reason to go to a 44 for 33" tires, and I see absolutely no sense in going to a low pinion 44 instead of a high pinion 30. I know of a 30 running Warn shafts and CTM u joints that buster two ends off the cross on the u joint. If you insist on needing a 44 you might as well build the ultimate: Ford high pinion 44 shortened to Waggy width, using Waggy inner shafts, Chevy Flat top knuckles and Ford outers and brakes. On top of that neither the OP, nor the shop he's using seem to know much what is needed to fit a different axle under a Comanche. Now if you want a Waggy 44 under there just to have a Waggy 44 under there, then that's all that will do.

Since he has a stick shift, 3.55s with 31" tires gives you the same final drive ratio as stock. If he thinks the current performance is okay, 3.55 with 31s will be okay as well. The 3.07 gears, designed for 27" tires will suck with 31s. 31s will work fine with a 3" lift, but on stock wheels will work even without a lift (even though you'd have to find a set of stock wheels). So no lift, 2" budget boost, or 3" lift, that's up to you.

$169 is for the bare truss. After adding the options you need (lower control arms, both upper control arms, sway bar brackets, track bar bracket) it totals $475. And for that money it still will not fit the axle as it is a passenger side diff. 3.07 with 33" tires is a horrible idea. With 4.0 and automatic transmission it's even a bad idea for stock size tires. with the 4.0 and manual transmission it is barely adequate for stock size tires. You want at least 4.10. If you're going to pay someone to regear, go with 4.56.

3.07 gears are what the Comanche uses stock with the 4.0 litre stick shift. It is adequate for stock tires, not for 33s. I suggest at LEAST 4.10, if you're regearing anyway I'd opt for 4.56. And the pics of that axle show it upside down. It's a passenger side diff and will not work with that truss, and will not work with a 231 or 242 transfer case (driver side drop).

So it is.