mvusse

I do do not have first hand information on this yet, but I believe the carriers are different. 29 spline spiders gears may not fit s 27 spline carrier, so the carrier may need swapped also.

Looks like you can definitely use more practice, but for only being your second time it looks pretty good.

With a posi-lok a lunch box locker in the front would be fine. Problem with lunch box lockers in a front axle with 4wd engaged on for example snow is that you can't always steer. Sometimes you will turn the steering wheel and point the front tires, yet keep going straight. With the posi-lok disengaged your passenger front tire will be free wheeling, keeping you tracking where the wheels are pointing to. A lunch box locker in a front axle without power to is (transfer case in 2wd) is invisible other than the ratcheting noise when making sharp turns.

Can't add any new information here other than confirming Eagle's guess at the stock track bar bolt being 10mm.

The torx bolt on the bottom of the bumper is one of (ONLY!) 4 bolts holding the bumper to the bumper brackets. The brackets made by Custom 4x4 that Eagle posted are a good solution. I have abused mine pretty badly, and now that they are obsoleted by a winch bumper with tow hooks and shackle mounts built in I put them on one of my Cherokees. No damage whatsoever after two years of abuse, including two broken straps and a stalled out 8k winch pulling on one of them.

My insurance is "kind of" the same. Any vehicle purchased to replace an insured vehicle is covered for up to 14 days without needing to so anything.

If NJ works the same way as OH, he will have to fill in his part if the title transfer (on the back side of the title) and have it notarized. then mail the title to you. You fill in your part and take it to the title office to be issued a NJ title in your name, and take it to the BMV to get a registration and plates. Take the plates with you, put them on the MJ and drive it home. Since a signed and notarized title is not something you want to lose, I would use certified mail.

I have done exactly that. Cut a steel plate to block off the disconnect hole and using a single piece shaft on the passenger side. No measurable difference in fuel economy You do need to add an oil seal on the passenger side of the pumpkin, though, and the stock seal does not fit. A NAPA 11771 worked for me.

Be aware to run the 96 engine you will have to swap the entire engine compartment harness and quite possilbly the dash harness as well. Also gauge cluster, speedometer sensor, fuel pump and sender and somehow splice your tail light harness into the new electrical. Renix and Chrysler use completely different engine electronics.

The pressure cap is supposed to pressurize the system to 16 psi which raises the boiling point to 280 degrees or so. With a bad pressure cap the coolant will boil just above 210 degrees, which is pretty close to normal even under ideal circumstances and well within specs. That cap is at least part of your problem.

Not quite. 4 cylinder/4 speed stick (AX-4) have 3.55. Supposedly (have not been able to confirm personally yet) early 4 cylinder/auto had 4.56.

Take the sawzall and salvage the back half as a trailer. Then paint it to match your new MJ.

So THAT is what you were hinting at when I had you on the phone last night. Oh, and I guess Don (bigd) was one of the people trying to get through when I had your phone tied up... Congrat!

That's interesting. I might not be surprised by an unnoticeable difference between lockouts and the disconnect, but I would expect a noticeable difference between a non-disconnect axle and either of the other options. Did you check the mileage on individual tanks, or was it a running average over several tanks? My mileage fluctuates by 10% from tank to tank just due to variations in where and how I'm driving, but I see pretty consistent numbers out of a 5-tank average. I need to rig an electric motor to an axle and use the current draw to determine how much horsepower is being lost to back-drive a front axle. That's definitely worth doing before I convert an axle. I keep a running tab on my fuel consumption, so that is averaged over many months and countless tanks.

Not off hand. Last time I had a D35 apart was like 10 years ago. Quick fix that may or may not work: tighten the pinion nut a bit more.

Compatible Dana 30 with 4.10 gears came in any Cherokee, Comanche, ZJ Grand Cherokee or TJ Wrangler with 4 cylinder engine, 5 speed stick shift. 4 speed stick got 3.55, auto may have 4.56 for some years, but more commonly 4.10 also. Incidentally, 5 speed stick is the most common transmission behind the 4 cylinder engine.

Like Eagle said, stock gearing would be 3.07. I do disagree on preference for gearing, though.Even though I don't see any justification in regearing what you have, in a stick shift with 31s I would prefer 3.55. 410s would be my preference for 31s with an automatic transmission. Great find, and welcome to the addiction.

I saw no measurable decrease in mileage when I did my CAD delete. Conversely there won't be a measurable difference gain from getting lock outs.

I have had a set of Custom 4x4 hooks on my Comanche and have been extremely happy with them. Never any problem. They were obsoleted by my new bumper which incorporates tow hook mounts on top of it. I'm now in the process of installing the C 4x4 brackets and hooks on Sparkles. If I had the need to buy another set I probably would opt for the Hi Country ones just so I could compare them side by side. One solution to D rings is a set of CT hooks from Jawz JP Customs. CNC machined out of a single piece of 1.25" think steel. I have broken a 10,000 pound tow strap hooked to one of those attempting to free a Cherokee sitting on the frame. 15 foot run to build up momentum, 3 consecutive pulls moved him about 6" each time. The 4th snapped the strap. Also been winched out myself multiple times by those hooks. I trust them more than the standard hooks that come with the C 4x4 kit. These hooks are not cheap at $55 a piece, but the cost includes grade 8 hardware and a $30 3/4" shackle.

Just checked my severely abused and rusted 87 trail rig. No cracks.

Don't know what I'll be running yet, but the 35s are to be just play tires, using the 33s on the road. Will probably go with 4.56. Sparkles is getting 4.10s, minimal lift, possibly 3.5", but more likely 2 budget boost and 31" tires. It is to be my daughter's car when she turns 16, and even though she wants to be able to wheel it, it will also be her DD. An inexperienced driver (at least on the road, she has lots of experience getting the Pig muddy) in a tall rig with big tires is asking for trouble.

Still running stock 3.55. Plan is to upgrade to FS Ford axle (high pinion 44 front, matching 9" rear), so I'm not going to regear what I have. these 3.55s are going to go into Booger (4.0HO/AX-15, currently has stock 3.07 gears), and I'm building a 4.10 ratio front axle to go under Sparkles (4.0HO/AW4). Will need to get a 4.10 rear axle before I make it into a 4wd, as it is currently still stock at 3.55.

:agree: He pretty much summed it all up I run an 8.25" with ZJ disc brakes. Zip tied the height sensing valve almost straight up because disc brakes require more pressure. I had problems with the parking brakes rusting away and/or falling apart, so I tossed them. As far as I am concerned, they are optional with an automatic transmission. Maybe at some point I'll install an aftermarket parking brake that uses the disc rotor instead of being a drum brake inside the rotor hat.

Yes, the spring plates will work. U bolts should never be re-used anyway, just make sure you get them for the larger diameter tubes on the 8.25". Even though the housing is a lot more stout, the axle shafts in that axle are almost as thin as D35 shafts. a 1997 or newer 8.25" would be a much better upgrade.

ZJ is the 93 through 98 Grand Cherokee. WJ is 99 through 04 Grand Cherokee. The D44HD seems like a good axle in theory, but it has an aluminum differential housing that deforms easily.