mvusse

Don't forget the track bar. And longer sway bar links should be gotten also. Quick disconnects are the easiest way to go about this.

That should be the first thing to replace. It's the cheapest part, and if it doesn't work right your coolant will boil at just over 210 degrees, well within specs, instead of 260

There is one 1996 Comanche I know of. EVERYTHING that interchanges came off a 96 Cherokee. Engine, drive train, all body parts that work. So the BMV titled it as a 96. Maybe this is that one again?

Make the rear wheels sit the same relative to the fenders as the front. Added stability. Keeping wheels out of inside wheel well under flex. ...

Spidertrax makes 1.25" hub centric ones for $100. These would be a lot safer than the above mentioned death traps.

A 2wd AW4 Cherokee rear shaft measures 40.5" from center of u-joint to center of u-joint. What length would a 4wd swb MJ need?

Power flush it with a water hose and a flush kit. Then evacuate the system with compressed air before filling with coolant. Always worked for me.

^and held nothing back btw. I still have the pic of you climbing out your rear window, and laying down hanging out the back of the bed to hook up a strap to get pulled out Yeah, I didn't stand a chance in that mud hole. But i HAD to try it, you know.

I spoke with a guy that was "wheeling" one and was selling it for $3500. Said he got 10mpg. That is diesel, gas or veggy oil, city or highway. Didn;t matter what kind of driving and what fuel, 10mpg. Would make the ultimate tow vehicle.

First time to Badlands I was bone stock, 29" tires (lwb!). Had a ton of fun and ran the orange trail. Second time I was lifted 4.5" but still 29" tires. And I had to drive 400 miles to get home afterwards.

Did a little wheeling Saturday and Sunday. Ripped off two people's rear bumper attempting recoveries, snapped my tow strap in half on another one. Seized idler pulley bearing, fan clutch does not engage anymore and my rear drive shaft has been modified:

After you flushed the system, did you drain the entire system, or just the radiator?

I wouldn't. I have tried it, and under full droop the shackles are pointed forward so far that when the suspension cycles back up the shackles flip up in the forward position instead of swinging back. Cherokee shackles are simply too short for Comanche springs.

The rusty color tells me there is iron in the water, which means you probably used tap water. The iron turns to rust and the rusty sludge will clog your new radiator in no time, causing overheating issues when driving at high speeds. That's why you're supposed to use distilled water, or in case of emergency and no other option, rain water. Overheating issues on the highway is usually a coolant flow problem. Overheating in stop and go traffic is an air flow problem.

Fixed it for you. Only one "l" on the end ;) Skid plate, skid plate, skid plate.

I prefer a disco axle housing (with a CAD delete) over a non disco housing. The passenger side upper control arm mount on the non disco axles scares me.

Never broke one yet. Lots of PB Blaster and even more patience are required.

Nobody.

Not quite. 84 through 94 are the same. 95 and 96 fronts widen out toward the front to cover the tires better, but do fit and mount the same.

Remember, the kid said his entire family has those Jeeps.

Only difference between 2 door and 4 door is that the front doors from a 4 door will fit your Comanche, but the 2 door has the tilt forward buckets to be able to use storage behind the seats.

1986 Jeep Comanche No photo I'm guessing 2.8V6, no idea on transmission. 2wd, D35 rear long bed (only size available in 86) Build date: Forgot to look Current Location: Canton Pull-a-Part, Canton, OH Status: In junkyard Notes: Got T boned, but has an brand new looking blue paint job. Guessing V6 based on dual tail pipes, but engine, transmission and exhaust back to rear axle are missing. Has the stock 2wd front axle, using stock shock mounts, but running leaf springs. Perches welded to bottom of tube, spring mounted to stock lower control arm mount and shackle hanging just behind the bumper. Bumper is off an import (Toyota?) truck which sticks out 6" more making room for the leaf spring shackle mount. Upper control arm mounts and sway bar are missing. 138,800 miles.

Went to the junk yard to get a newer style brake caliper for the new front axle and ran into am 86 MJ that wasn't there 2 weeks ago. Completely picked clean except for the dome lights. Needed one, took both, both work, Now I got a spare!

Not a mudder, but my truck has a habit of going through ponds, deep puddles and creeks off road. Fied one alternator before I installed a front skid plate, which helped a lot. Still fried two more before I moved it to the top of the engine. Still went through two more after that because of filled with mud, last one with my 13 year old driving. How she managed to cover the inside of hood and everything in engine compartment covered solid in mud (including the alternator filled with it and over top of battery, air cleaner and engine front to back) while not getting any inside the air cleaner beats me.

Yeah, thanks again, neo.