mvusse

Yet you still have a weak axle housing, weak ring and pinion, fewer and more costly highsteer options, non-serviceable wheel bearings, no lockouts, small brakes, etc.... High pinion D30 gears are no weaker than low pinion D44. And people underestimate the D30. I run mine locked on 35s, and have abused it off road monthly. Have had it bouncing up to three feet high on multiple occasions doing hill climbs, still straight. And if you do want to truss it, it will still be less than the $475 for the Waggy truss will all the needed suspension attachment points added to it. Parts are cheap and plentiful also, unlike the Waggy. The weak link in the 30 is not the housing, not the gears and not the shafts. It's the unit bearings. The problem with the Waggy 44 is not that it is difficult to swap in, it is expensive to swap in. $475 for the truss, let's say $100 to have it welded on, $500 to $1000 to have it regeared, and you've spent between $1000 and $1500 after which you still need new wheels because of the different bolt pattern. I can get a high pinion 30 with the larger shafts for $200 cash and carry any day, ready to be installed. I can get spare shafts 7 days a week for $20. The same four yards that have a combined total of 5 Comanches, 30+ Cherokees and even more Grand Cherokees have exactly two full size Wagoneers, one if which is a passenger side drop. So one driver side drop Waggy 44 for let's say fifty D30s (some will be 2wd). Plenty of them are high pinion and plentry will have the larger shafts. I imagine the rest of the country is about the same.

I had 4.5" front lift with 33x12.50s and had problems. 33x10.50 should be doable, and 33x9.50 on the stock rims will fit inside the wheel wells. A Ford 8.8 is a great axle for the rear, but a 29 spline 8.25" from a 97 or newer Cherokee is plenty strong for 33" tires, and again, the drive shaft will bolt right to it. Brakes will work without modification and is the correct width (8.8 is 1.5" or so narrower). Find one with a 4 cylinder and it will have 4.10 gears also. Go SOA with it for ~5" lift and will be a fine match for a 4.5" lift in the rear, especially with 2wd rear spring which are 1" less than the 4wd springs. As for the front, forget about the Waggy 44,and get a high pinion 30 off a 4 cylinder/5 speed Cherokee so it will have 4.10 gears. Swap in axle shafts off a Grand Cherokee (but not the CV shafts), any Cherokee with ABS, or any Cherokee 97 and newer to get the stronger u joints and you're done. No money spent on a truss, no money spent on regearing, no money spent on any fabrication on the front axle, and only perches and shock mounts (<$70) to be welded onto the rear axle (which cost me $25 at a local to me welding shop). Another $30 or so for new u bolts, and the rest of your money can go toward the 4.5" front lift kit to match the SOA rear.

I checked all the options you'd need and it comes to $475. You can get an entire high pinion D30 out of a Cherokee, Grand Cherokee or Comanche for less than half that much. Correct width, correct yoke for the drive shaft, correct bolt pattern for the stock wheels, correct width and with just a little bit of looking, the correct gearing. Even after spending the $475, that Wagoneer axle most likely has 2.72 gears and would need regeared. That's another $500 to $1000. Go with the advice already given in your other thread. A high pinion D30 will be a much easier swap, with less to be done to it, for much less money.

Just bypass the resistor. It is there because the pumps are a bit loud even when working properly, and is bypassed on start up and during WOT. The 87s never had one.

The stock 2wd drive shaft will be too long as the transfer case bring the output back about a foot. One solution is to have a shop shorten and rebalance your 2wd drive shaft.

It seems that place sells standard tow hooks. The same ones that TSC sells for less than half the price. But without a real frame to bolt them to you still need brackets to properly secure them to a unibody behicle like a Comanche.

Yes it is.

DIY: http://home.comcast.net/~t.molnar/Obwelder1.htm

yes, the 9" drums are correct for 1990.

Start with a tune up: Distributor cap, rotor button, plugs and plug wires.

Here's another solution: http://shop.airliftcompany.com/product/287293/80702/_/Air_Lift_1000%3B_Coil_Spring

Bolt in axles for the front are high pinion D30, low pinion D30 or low piniond D44 (TJ Rubicon). Stay away from the low pinion D30. High pinion D30 and low pinion D44 are about the same strength in the gears. They use the same shafts, unit bearings, brakes etc. High pinion 30 puts the front drive shaft up higher out of harms way with less angle in the u joints for less wear. Rubicon D44 is more money, but comes with a factory air locker and can be geared much lower, which probably will not be an issue for you. I'd go with a high pinion 30. They're cheap and plentiful.

Or removed the cover and turn the pinion until the side of the ring gear that has the numbers stamped into it is facing you. Two of the numbers are the teeth on the ring gear and the pinion gear. Another way is to jack up the rear and count how many revolutions of the drive shaft (just over 3, just over 3.5 or just over 4) for one revolution of both tires.

I guess fabricating a stop for the shackle could work. Typically you'd use limiting straps, though.

3.07 are the stock gears that came with the 4.0 and 5 speed. Cruising at 70mph in 5th should put you right around ~2100 rpm. With 3.55s you'd be doing about 2400 rpm, with 4.10 you'd be doing about 2800 rpm. And even with the 307 gears my Cherokee will easily break loose or pull a 100 foot track. On the other end of the scale I can just about hit 60 in second gear before I hit the rev limiter.

There should be a rubber hose going from the breather fitting up into the frame rail to keep water from running into the axle through it when submerged. Is that the rubber hose you are referring to as being cut?

Wasn't the black interior only available in 87?

If you don't cap the red line you will have a vacuum leak. The transfer case is engaged by the lever inside the cab.

That fitting on top is the axle breather tube. It is screwed into the axle and acts as a bolt holding the distribution block on the axle. You need to unbolt it; hence the hex collar.

If you lifted the front anywhere near 4", you will have ~1.5"-2" toe in. That by itself is enough to set off death wobble. I speak from experience here: After lifing the front 4.5" I had DW at 25-30mph so severe it cost me an alternator (bearings fubarred). After going over literally everything part by part it turned out to be the 2" toe in causing the problem. Transfer case drop is not needed for u joint angles in your rear drive line. If your rear drive shaft is still too short, you can use a YJ yoke for a bit of extra length (either 1/2" or 3/4", can't remember offhand). TJ may be similar, don't know. You can also use one of the other holes in the perches to move the axle forward 1", but added to the longer snout on the axle and a longer yoke that would probably be too much. Also test your rear axle down travel and/or limit it with straps. When I tried XJ shackles and let the axle droop down the shackles angled forward so far they flipped up in the forward position when I placed weight back on the axle.

From the web via Google:

Coolant temp sensor or O2 sensor? Usually burning fuel like crazy is caused by the computer staying in open loop mode.

Spidertrax.

I've been close twice. Once ad Badlands a friendly tree stopped me from going over. I balanced against it for a moment, then slowly rolled back. I still remember Wade's (89eliminator) observation over the cb: Marcel, you're rear wheel is lifting... My though was "No $#!&amp;!". The other time was at Jeepskool. The rear end got a little loose on a steep descent. Look at 1:20: Yes, I needed to change my underwear after that one.

I know of only one 95 YJ personally, and it does not. Owner says that's the original axle. Not the first time I've been wrong. Probably won't be the last either.