mvusse

It is a heater control valve. No clue why they put it there as I have noticed no difference in in-cab temps or operation when I effectively bypassed mine. Just take it out and replace the two hoses with one longer one, or splice them together using a fitting from a backflush kit.

PM me your address. I have one I think will work for you. You can have it for the cost of shipping.

Ever thought a contributing cause could be it's well above average body weight?

This is what my 87 used when it was stock:

Yes, you will have to replace the unit bearing as a whole. They are not supposed to be serviceable or greasable. They cost anywhere from $90 to $130 depending on year and come with only a one year warranty. Depending on what style it may or may be be possible to take it apart without ruing it so you could grease it, but as Eagle said, it takes a hydraulic press with some special attachments.

I just looked at some of my photobucket albums this morning and linked a few. No problem whatsoever. I have had occasional issues in the past where the site times out on me repeatedly for a day or longer, but no problems for at least a year now.

Cooler too. Even with all the windows open it gets HOT inside when wheeling in July or August.

Murphy.

Bosch in general makes good products, but I've never had much luck with their plugs.

Badlands is a blast. What I don't like is all the ATVs making noise in the camp ground, but have never gone the the one 7 miles away in case I break down. Planning to make it to Rausch Creek some time. Have not heard good things about Haspin Acres. The only people I know personally that have been there vowed to never go back. There's a guy from the Lousiville area (actually, Clarksville, IN) who was at JS a few months back. Don't know if he's been back since. Also have people from MI, PA and WNY who show up regularly.

Did they test them in an MJ or XJ with the 4.0?

It's common with using Rusty's junk. Ask 89eliminator.

I know there's woody kits out there for Libbys. It's also a US only factory option, option code PDT.

I saw Ed, Jason and Linda in the fifth picture and said "Jeepskool". Then I scrolled up to see who posted it. DUH! And only THEN did I scroll down to last one... That is a muddy trail classified MM (Mildly Modified) they should never have been on. The Libbys were attempting to back out when one of them got hung up on a Y shaped log with one end of the Y getting extremely stuck on the passenger side lower A arm. There's some nice hill climbs, a few rock crawls, wet trails with a rock bottom, sand dunes, tight twisty trails between the trees (but they get muddy after rain and can stay muddy for weeks afterwards), water pits with mud underneath, some hard core obstacles and an obstacle course the first half of which will challenge a stock rig, but the second half needs a somewhat built vehicle and a good spotter. So far it has swallowed a FS Bronco, a 4 door BIG Tracker (well, the body is a Tracker anyway, doubt the drivetrain is) and a built Samurai. Also House34/Ed (guy in Orange hat) is in the planning stages of a SFA conversion with 35" tires and DonkeyKong/Mark (black T shirt standing behind me) has sold his Libby and bought a TJ (with a weak frame that broke on his first trip out).

My hardware store carries 12.9 grade metric bolts, but they are very expensive. Ziegler bolt and nut house (local company) and Fastenall (international chain) also have them and are a bit more affordable.

It's such a shame to see the amount of money some people spend on an MJ to make it into a mall crawler.

The 4.0 does not have an injector on the throttle body. They all had multi port injection from it's inception in 87 on to the end. Stock injectors were by Siemens. I'm currently running rebuilt Bosch ones.

Check your thermostat. It should run between 180 and 210, with a 195 degree thermostat. 150 means either the wrong thermostat, no thermostat, or thermostat stuck open.

Friend of the family tried to dislodge a stick from under the deck of a riding mower when he was a kid. Lost 3/4 of his ring finger. They sowed it back on, but the tip started turning purple and black. Blood was moving into it, but did not circulate back out. Ended up having to put a leech on his finger tip every 6 hours for a few weeks. Luckily, it did eventually heal. My boss is missing 1/3 of a middle finger when a board kicked up and out of an underpowered table saw, causing his hand to follow across the blade. Cut into three fingers and exploded the end joint of the middle finger into more than 10 bone fragments. He had the choice of having it permanently pinned, meaning he could never bend it again and it'd be in the way, or have it cut off at the knuckle. An co-worker had a close call with the same saw earlier. Same thing, but he just cut into the meaty part of his hand between the wrist and pinky without permanent damage. I was happy to see that saw go. Sold it for $150 with a disclaimer to "use at your own risk". Delta says they set the standard for table saws, but as far as I'm concerned, that standard sucks. Powermatic far surpasses it. Same for shapers. We have 5 Powermatics in various sizes, and a piece of poo Delta we should have never wasted our money on. But I'm drifting off topic here.

My 87 4.0/auto 4x4 Comanche got 24mpg highway when it was stock. An XJ with the same drive train, but weighing less should be able to match that. Both of my XJs are the 4.0HO, though, and I only get 22 with them. But 18mpg while towing a 2000 pound trailer pleasantly surprised me. I guess when you have the aerodynamics of a brick, hanging a wider taller brick behind it doesn't make much of a difference. Quite a few 97 and newer XJs have a 29 spline 8.25. Some 96 as well, but older 96 and earlier 8.25 would have had 27 spline shafts. 87 through 89 (90?) could come with a D44. Did Cherokees ever come with whitewall tires? Googled for a few minutes, and it came up with a 17.9 foot turning radius for both a 99 Cherokee and an 03 Liberty. Exactly the same turning radius. Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against the KJ, and when the XJ finally disappeared it was definitely outdated. But the KJ is not the end all - be all of Jeep SUVs.

What year truck? On my 87 the doors controlling where the air goes (windshield/vents/floor) are vacuum controlled. But the diverter that forces the air either through the heater core or around it is mechanical using a steel cable (much like a parking brake cable). I disconnected the vacuum line from the valve in the engine compartment. It defaults to hot without any vacuum to it.

Did you add tap water, or distilled water? (Even moderately) hard tap water has iron in it. That iron will turn to rust and stick together to form what looks deceptively like mud. And it is REALLY good at clogging radiators. Flushing the cooling system would definitely my first step. Is the oil pressure always that low, or is it fine for a few days after an oil change? When my injectors were leaking some of the excess gasoline would work past the piston rings and end up in the oil. Oil pressure was fine after an oil change, two months later while wheeling I had 0 pressure while idling, ~20psi when revving it up. Changed the oil and all was fine again. The old oil was water thin. Problem has now been permanently solved by a new set of (rebuilt) better injectors.

Yup, sounds like your timing is off. By more than one tooth too.

As the title says. When you submit a vote is says the value is invalid or something along those lines. Edit:

My problem is that I came over at the EARLIEST time THEY told me I could come over. And they sold it already to someone that came over earlier. If it was okay to come over earlier, why didn't they tell me to come over earlier. I told them I could be there in 15 minutes when I called, but was told that didn't work for them because they were leaving for someplace. They did apologize, but there was nothing they could do. The car was still their, but the other guy had the title already.