mvusse

Fix the rod for your proportioning valve. It should be pointing straight up.

Your vacuum booster has sprung a leak.

Your transmission would be a AX15.

My 96 2wd 4.0/auto gets 22-24mpg on the highway. 17mpg mixed driving.

If it had two oil filters, it would have had a filter relocation kit installed and the two filters would most likely have been mounted side by side, although some kits mount the stock filter (almost) in it's original position and the bypass filter only is relocated.

I'm thinking track bar. After it is off the upper and/or lower control arms can possibly still hold it up too high. There are tabs on the frame that prevent the upper arms from dropping too far, and the lower arms can hit the axle bracket preventing it from going down far enough. And then the brake hoses may hit their end also. Also, if you take off the bump stops (put a pipe wrench through the spring onto the rusty metal part above the rubber stop, it just unscrews) you need 4" less to get the springs out. I find it easiest to unbolt everything. But putting it back together can be a pain as you'll be fighting the springs trying to get the control arms bolted up.

Maybe because of the ABS? I have an 87 MJ, 94 XJ and 96 XJ. The hard line at the end of the hose has a different bend in it, but the same hookup and I have found them to be interchangeable. Right now the MJ uses a 89XJ D30 with 92 knuckles and brakes and 95 YJ hoses. I got those 95 YJ hoses when it was still the all original 87 D30.

Disco is short for vacuum axle disconnect system. A stupid idea to save some gas mileage that didn't make a measurable difference and causes more problems than it's worth. Jeep did away with it in Cherokees and Comanches in 90 or 91 and in all Wranglers in 97. Low pinion means the pinion shaft (where the drive shaft bolts to the axle) is lower than the center line of the ring gear. Conversely high pinion means the pinion shaft is above the center line. In a low pinion front axle the pinion gear rides on the coast side of the ring gear, making it deflect easier and essentially making it weaker. A high pinion axle would be stronger, and has the added benefit of mounting the drive shaft higher out of harms way, and with lower u joint angles making them last longer. The 95 Jeep Wrangler has leaf springs. It would cost about $200 in brackets to be welded on to bolt to your Comanche. The 98 XJ one is among the best out there, as it is a high pinion, does not have the vacuum disconnect and has larger/stronger u joints (same size as D44 front axles). Your five speed will have 3.07 gears in the rear axle. You will be happy with the 3.55 gears in the Cherokee axle, but will need to either regear your rear axle (upwards of $600 if a shop does it for you) or swap another rear axle in (which is actually cheaper). You could use the D35 from the Cherokee, by cutting off the spring perches and shock mounts and having new perches welded on in the correct location, but I would hesitate to put ANY money into a D35 besides gear oil and brake parts. I would look for a Chrysler 8.25" from a 97 or newer Cherokee with 3.55 gears and use it instead. Much more durable than a D35. If your 2wd front axle uses unit bearings with a dummy axle shaft inside them, you can swap the steering knuckles to keep your current brakes. 88 brake calipers will not bolt to 98 steering knuckles. The size of the holes is wrong, as is the location. Your 88 brake pads will not fit in a 98 caliper, and the mounting flange on your 88 rotors is the wrong thickness unless you use 88 unit bearings instead of the 98 ones on the axle. The brake hose is the only thing that is the same, along with the bolt that mounts to hose to the caliper. Confused yet?

Check the wiring going to that injector.

Hate to sound repetitive, but I agree with the above posters. Obviously not a timing problem, but a misfire problem instead. I'd start by replacing the distributor cap (and what goes with it: rotor button, plugs and wires). It should be done as regular maintenance, but when was the last time it was done?

Or gears on one of the sprockets have worn away.

No need to machine off the u joint ears, as they don't interfere with anything. My 96 XJ is like that, which is nice, because that means I can reuse the 2wd knuckles, unit bearings and brakes for the 4wd swap.

As aid before, AW4. What's wrong with it? Was modified because it either it rusted through, or more likely broke from someone not being careful removing the transmission pan. Wipers on mine are slow also on a dry windshield. In the rain when there is less resistance on a wet windshield they go normal speed.

You sure about that? Or a 231? The only Jeep with a 241 that might swap in is out of a TJ Wrangler Rubicon. Other 241s were in full size trucks like my 94 Suburban.

Here in Ohio, a number of state parks are mostly public hunting lands. Sounds like a war zone during gun season, and with some of the idiots that hunt around here, not anywhere near safe to go hiking during hunting season.

My buddy had a TJ, and the stock tires on it were 205/75R15, which are 27" tires. After they went bald he moved up to 235/75R15 which is 29"/ Rusty's does not make their own coil springs, they are made for them by another manufacturer. Despite all the bad experiences I;ve heard of, this is the first one I've heard about problems with their coil springs. That's a Jeep thing. You might know what parts are "supposed" to be on it, but even from the factory, you can never be sure unless you check for yourself.

No parts store sells Comanche sending units. They think they do, but they are Cherokee ones, which DO NOT INTERCHANGE, even though the parts stores think they do. The Cherokee one is mirror image from the Comanche one. If you have an after market tank without the pan inside, a Cherokee one MIGHT fit, but in a stock tank the pan inside the tank is in the way. The problem with the gauges is not Comanche versus Cherokee. It is Renix electronics versus Chrysler (HO) ones.

SkZj-n0ELio

A young man named John received a parrot as a gift. The parrot had a bad attitude and an even worse vocabulary. Every word out of the bird's mouth was rude, obnoxious and laced with profanity. John tried and tried to change the bird's attitude by consistently saying only polite words, playing soft music and anything else he could think of to 'clean up' the bird's vocabulary. Finally, John was fed up and he yelled at the parrot. The parrot yelled back. John shook the parrot and the parrot got angrier and even more rude. John, in desperation, threw up his hand, grabbed the bird and put him in the freezer. For a few minutes the parrot squawked and kicked and screamed. Then suddenly there was total quiet. Not a peep was heard for over a minute. Fearing that he'd hurt the parrot, John quickly opened the door to the freezer. The parrot calmly stepped out onto John's outstretched arms and said "I believe I may have offended you with my rude language and actions. I'm sincerely remorseful for my inappropriate transgressions and I fully intend to do everything I can to correct my rude and unforgivable behavior." John was stunned at the change in the bird's attitude. As he was about to ask the parrot what had made such a dramatic change in his behavior, the bird spoke-up, very softly, "May I ask what the turkey did?" HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!

XJ tank will not fit in an MJ. XJ sending unit will not fit in a stock MJ tank, but may fit in an after market tank without a pan. Renix sending unit will hook up to a a HO cluster, but full will read somewhere near empty (but not exactly) and empty will read somewhere near full (but again, not exactly). Besides what the AZ site says, I'm not sure the Renix and HO use the same pump, but I don't see why your old pump would not work as the pressure and volume should be about the same.

My bet is on the frame side track bar bracket. It is not unusual for the hole to get wallowed out. I'm assuming with the new control arms came new control arm bushings? Did you lift the vehicle (sorry, don't have time to read back through this thread). If so, did you readjust the toe-in?

Before grabbing a 35 out of a Cherokee I'd grab an 8.25" out of a 97 or newer one (29 spline). Not quite a D44,but MUCH better than a 35. As Pete told me before (and I agree): NEVER spend money on a 35 besides gear oil and brake parts. They are junk.

Sharp turn can almost always prevent it as it forces everything to one side. Accelerating shifts the weight back, changing your front suspension geometry. Even though a drive shaft vibration COULD technically set off DW, I highly doubt this is the case. Either way, the problem is still something in the front suspension and/or steering allowing DW to happen. If you can't find it, a new steering stabilizer will "fix" (hide) it also as it sounds like your current one is shot. But when everything is working the way it's supposed to, a steering stabilizer should not even be needed. What all have you checked/inspected so far? What all have you replaced so far?

If your truck is 4wd, I would check the passenger side front axle u joint first. Could also be unit bearing, or tire rubbing on lower control arm.

They didn't keep operating off the alternator because when the battery cable shorted to ground, it shorted the ENTIRE electrical system to ground, including the alternator.