mvusse

Never spend money on a D35 aside from brake parts and gear oil. You might as well flush it down the toilet.

You'd be amazed how many GRAND Cherokee owners call their vehicle a Cherokee. Some don't even know there ever was a not Grand Cherokee.

Stocks shafts with the 760 joints, Aussie locker and 35s. No breakage with this abuse: ClkrdnotVKQ If anyone has seen Peterson's 4 Wheel and Offroad 2009 Ultimate Adventure, the last part of that climb may look familiar.

I just did away with the CAD on mine. Pulled everything out and off, screwed a 1/4 steel plate over the opening with some form-a-gasket and added an oil seal on the passenger side of the diff. That way I can use a single piece shaft, which are cheap and plentiful. I have never been able to find a 95 YJ with the larger shafts in a yard. A guy I wheel with has a 95 and has the larger joints, but both 95 YJs I found in a junkyard had the smaller ones. Shafts with the larger joints can be found in any XJ with ABS. any XJ 97 or newer and some ZJs. If the ABS tone ring is in the way for your style unit bearing it will come off with a few good whacks of a hammer. Also, after using Duralast and DuraLast Gold, Neapco and Neapco Bruteforce, Spicer 5-297x and Spicer 5-760x joints, I swear by the 760x. FAR stronger than any of the other ones and still a decent price around $25-$30.

If you're using a driveshaft with a single u joint on each end (like the stock driveshaft), the pinion angle is supposed to be parallel to the transfer case output. Actually, you can go 2 degrees or so lower so it will be parallel when under load driving around.

4wd PART time. The Full time option allows slip between the front and rear axles.

Install driver side floorpan, straighten out passenger lower control arm axle bracket and weld stiffener/skid plate to both passenger and driver one. Reinstall front driveshaft and check everything to go back off road next weekend. The rocks last weekend took their toll, next weekend will be mostly mud on Saturday with my 14 y/o daughter at the wheel, and who knows what Sunday when she won't be there. For now I'm taking her advice and staying away from the rocks, though. Will also try to get some cleaning and drywall mudding in.

Do not believe it matters much, but remember what year you get them from. I believe 93 is different from 94 through 98, so you need to know when buying pads or rotors. Also the center hole needs to be enlarged to fit the larger axle tube. Aside from that they are a direct bolt on.

My local Autozone employs a girl who quit her job at Advance because she didn't like the incompetency of her coworkers, and a woman who does the evening shift on the weekends. They are two of only three people there who seem to know what they are talking about. But they both rate only about a 5 and the girl is young enough she could be my daughter.

For SUA, factory perches are fine. For SOA, I used these.

5" lift is too much for a stock track bar, but my stock steering was fine with 33" tires on 6.5" lift with the stock tires until I bent my tie rod on a rock. I then upgraded to a V8 ZJ set up and promptly bent it on a rock.

My 87 trail toy shows 136k, but I swapped in another cluster to have a tach, so in reality it has 146k. My 87 daily driver is at 80k. I also have a 96 XJ with 183k on the clock.

In my 94 XJ I hit the rev limiter once during a 2nd gear pass. That was right around 55-60mph, so I shifted to 3rd. My 96 goes like a friggin rocket (PCM has been flashed, may have something to do with it) and I have to be carefull not to smoke the tires on take off. And no matter what anyone says, that one was NOT made for off road. It's a 2wd. It was made for ma to get groceries and take the kids to soccer practice.

Yes, for off road. But on the road the tread bulges too much and the outside edges of the tread will not make contact, causing faster uneven wear unless you air them down at the cost of higher fuel consumption and even faster wear plus the risk of a blow out. It is for these reasons I have my $1200 35x12.50 play tires on 8" rims, but my $100 33x12.50 road tires are on 10" rims.

Yes, but just barely.

Phaw! I've gone >600mph in a DC10 flying in a jetstream.

You can make it fit, but IMO 7" is too narrow. For a 12.5" wide tire I suggest a 10" rim for street use, or 8" for off road. Suggested minimum rim width according to tire manufacturer is usually 8.5". A 33x10.50 will be fine, though.

When I first got my MJ I added 1 3/4" pucks in the front and it sat level. Easiest way to figure it out is to take a tape measure and see how much higher the rear sits than the front. after 20 or so years of use, there's no telling how far your springs have sagged.

Actually, he's had to spread his herd over several locations. Landlord got on his behind about them. :roll:

Just got off the phone with him. Bob is just fine, but still swamped with work until at least June.

The tank will work, but the sending unit will read somewhere around empty when the tank is full and move toward full as the tank empties.

I usually drive about 5 mph over the speed limit, so 70 in a 65, and 75 out of state where the speed limit is 70 My truck is fairly well behaved, so 75 is no problem even on 35s. Last trip to Badlands I was cruising 80-85 for a couple hour on 33" tires, 6.5" lift and stock gears. When it was stock I've had it around 100 during a quadruple pass with plenty left.

Went playing in the rocks yesterday. Some dents (including in the rear driveshaft), some rock rash (including on front driveshaft, lower control arms and brackets), but stayed mostly clean. The afterwards leaving the property on the dirst road (that was frozen in the morning going in) I got completely covered in mud being flung off the tires at 5-10 mph :fs1:

Try swapping your front springs side to side.

Autozone only shows one, and calls it thermal. I know it fits, cause that's the one I currently have. Advance also only shows a thermal one. Different brand, though. NAPA shows two, both thermostatic. Where are you looking?