gogmorgo

I've had a few close calls in the early months of winter that lead to me repairing my horn. Nearly got sandwiched against a new F350 when an Aveo pulled around a line of cars stopped to turn left. My mirror went over the top of the Aveo's, and my passenger said the mirror on his side went under the F350's. Then later that nay I nearly wound up with a rather exotic hood ornament in the shape of a Traverse that turned out of a parking lot (wheels spinning like crazy don't make you go any faster...) and then immediately moved accross three lanes of traffic to turn left into another parking lot, completely obliviously to the fact that there were other vehicles on the road... I don't have a dash cam, although I know a guy who just has a 1/4" bolt sticking up out of the dash that he screws his camera onto (like with a standard tripod mount). He just uses an older low-end digital camera that has capacity for a three-hour video, and he deletes the old one and starts a new one every time he sets out. He's also got a cigarette lighter charger so he doesn't use batteries. It's a bit of a bother turning it on all the time, but it cost him nothing since he got a newer camera as a gift and already had everything else. Course, though, probably the time he'd need it would be the time he forgot to turn it on...

Exhaust cloud... it's cold out.

There's also a vacuum operated valve that shuts off coolant flow to the heater core when the heat's off. It's not uncommon for those to quit working properly.

You can run any switch you like if it's just triggering a relay. Are you sure you've got a dash wiring issue on the parking lights? A single-filament bulb in a double-filament socket can cause this.

I'm on board with this. My MJ's track bar bracket bolts are somewhat loose, as I think I mentioned somewhere above. I know they're loose because I can see evidence around the heads of the bolts that it's moving around. Unfortunately, though, when I tried tightening them, I couldn't get them to budge at all, and that was applying near 200 ft-lbs by my reckoning.

The heater controls are all vacuum controls, and if there's no vacuum, they will default to the defrost position. Most likely you've got a leak somewhere. Don't know if there's any particular spot that is known to fail, but check for unhooked hoses.

MMM.... Staaaaake...

mm... yeah, didn't think of that. Try using [ img ] tags around the URL like so:

Use this button: And then put the same image address you're using into the box that pops up. Also, the two threads pinned in this sub-forum are useful reads. :thumbsup:

There's a fair looking J truck with a tray that I see parked near my church every now and again. I'll have to snap a pic next time I see it. If I ever feel the need for a bigger truck, that's the way I'd like to go if I can. Looking forward to this build. I'll echo MancheKid's sentiment. That thing looks pretty mint.

Check out this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ And this one: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38265-how-to-make-your-posts-look-awesome-pics-links-videos-etc/ :thumbsup:

You really don't want to disconnect your sway bar for driving on the road. That's a disaster waiting to happen. If you don't get longer end links, your sway bar will get pulled back and contact your coils. That's also a bad thing. I think you can use the end links from a Ford truck, as they're longer, but I don't know which ones you want.

Here you go, friend: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

Saw a story about someone with a 600,000 mile XJ. Friend of mine's dad had a ZJ that went 1.4 million km ( nearly 900,000 miles) on the original 4.0 without major work done. I believe my friend although I've never met his dad or the ZJ. Edit:: Just remembered there's a thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/15015-lets-see-whos-got-the-most-miles-on-there-mj/

Are you asking if you should be sandwiching a ground between the bed and the mount, or sticking the ground on the end of the bolt? If so, then that shouldn't matter so long as you're actually grounding through something, although it wound be better to have the eye of a ground lead against a nut or bolt head. You should have had some form of setup instructions that came with your radio or antenna. Did you follow them? If not, you should probably do that. If so, you might want to do some research into what might cause a high swr issue. This might be a good place to start.

Looks like the rear bumper's a Fey, and pretty beat, too. I'm curious about that grill guard. I thought the factory guards didn't curve around the corner like that? For anyone wondering, 800,000 km is 500,000 miles.

I've never swapped a column myself, but I have recently somewhat disassembled one. All the parts you mention are the same on the XJ and MJ. Also remember you want the doors off a 4-door XJ. Edit:: Ignore anything I may have said before about removing the column. Guess you don't need to disassemble it before removal.

The only way to know for sure is to check the vin. The door sticker could tell you build date, although they're often illegible and its possible the door got swapped at some point. Emissions stickers will give you model year. While it takes the fun out of the game, you should probably ask for the vin. Check digit 10. G=1986, H=1987, J=1988, K=1989, L=1990, M=1991, N=1992.

Are you planning on making the bumper match the profile of the front bumper? That's a guess based on the shape of the brackets. If that's the case, would you be able to use the factory end caps off a stock XJ rear bumper? Don't actually know if the front and rear XJ bumpers share the profile, though.

:offtopic: But it's a reasonably common mod. I saw it being used on the Dodge Cummins before I got into Jeeps. It really helps with tight low-speed maneuvers with a heavy trailer. As far as overspinning the diff goes, honestly, how fast do you plan on going in low range? Can't really be any worse than getting stuck with open diffs and only spinning one wheel.

Just spotted a Comanche on Top Gear (UK) of all places! Course, they were in Miami at the time, but... still. Series 9, episode 3, the first US special, from back in 2007: Honestly not sure how I spotted it, since despite it being one of the few things of interest in the shot, it was only on camera for about three seconds, and a few vehicles drove past in front of it. And I was folding laundry and not really watching, just glanced up at exactly the right time, I guess. Stationary camera, this is the most we see of it.

Well, it won't be entirely psychological. You are blocking cold air from entering the rad, which will definitely lead to things being warmer.

But check connections before pulling apart the starter.

Building on what Oyaji said, unless you have a full-time 4x4 option, which I don't think any MJ's got from the factory (and if they did it's extremely rare), then you definitely should not be using 4x4 on dry pavement. There is no center differential in the transfer case, so both axles are locked together. This is fine when driving on a lower-traction surface, or in straight lines on dry pavement (although I'd still avoid using 4x4 on dry pavement at all). When you go around a corner, your front and rear axles don't follow the same radius. Since they're following different radii, they try to turn at different speeds. When you're in 2wd, even on dry pavement, they can do that because the axles aren't locked together. When you're in 4x4, they can't turn at different speeds. On lower-traction surfaces, this is fine, as the wheels can slip, making up for it. On dry pavement, or even wet pavement and sometimes even hard-packed dirt, there's too much traction for the tires to slip, so stress builds up in the driveline, meaning the individual parts start trying to twist. When the stress is too high for the "weakest" part of your driveline, it gets released. Sometimes it's just that one wheel will suddenly hop and spin, leaving a nice patch of rubber. In your case, the transfer case pops out of gear. In some cases, you could pop a u-joint, break a half-axle, or pretzel a driveshaft. None of which is desirable. TL,dr: DON'T use 4x4 on pavement. There's no need for it, and you seriously run the risk of breaking something.

Yeah, it's not uncommon for them to be run around here, all winter. Even if it's above 10ºF. Mostly I see it on older vehicles, though. I remember going out to my dad's '85 Chevy with my grandpa to install what he called a "Saskatchewan thermostat" on it. We just slid some cereal box cardboard behind the grill. I don't remember it doing much, but I was only 16 at the time. My dad's done it some winters and not done it others. Never really had an issue either way, although my dad says it helps it stay warmer in there. I still don't notice a difference.