gogmorgo

You have your location as Mobile, and while I'm not familiar with the climate there, I'd hazard a guess that if you never use a block heater, you shouldn't ever really need this. Whether some kind of grill block-off is truly needed or not is a controversial issue, and in complying with the OP's request, I'd rather not start an argument about it. Blocking off the grill is done to allow the engine to warm up faster. The effects will be somewhat noticeable at just about any temperature, but most noticeable when there's significant airflow through the engine bay. You'll be more grateful for the effects as temperature decreases and air speed increases. My personal opinion on the subject is that this should be completely unnecessary, since a properly functioning cooling system will effectively do the same thing, with the added advantage of automatically compensating for when things get too hot (although this particular solution does allow for manual adjustment). However, there is a certain point when the air flowing through the engine bay cools the engine enough by itself to prevent the engine from ever getting up to temperature. Some kind of grill closure device would then be a good idea, but unless -40 or less is a normal temperature, you probably won't ever have this issue. I've never had an issue with my MJ in cold weather over a winter and a half with -20ºF being on the chilly side of normal, and I've never run something like this. Whether it's needed or not, though, this is a pretty slick way to block off the grill. I'd say it looks far better than the (overpriced) quilted "blankets" that are commercially available, and I'd say it's preferable to using cardboard the way Jim suggests, not that there's anything wrong with that method either.

Yeah, the registry is under the "diy" sub-forum. As a percentage of all MJ's produced, there aren't too many on there, though.

You can get a gauge that screws onto a valve on the fuel rail. If this is the same MJ that recently had a starter switch/button installed, have you gone over all the connections to make sure they're good?

Burping is getting the air bubbles out of the system. I don't know what the procedure is for the 2.5, but when I did my 4.0, I just pulled the rad cap off and topped up the rad. Then I squeezed the upper rad hose repeatedly until air stopped bubbling out of the rad cap. Then I topped up the rad, put the cap back on, and ran the engine for a couple minutes, shut the engine off, and did it again, until there was no air at the top of the rad. I also had the front wheels sitting on a snow bank (about 18" high, but that's pretty well overkill) to make sure the rad was the highest part of the cooling system.

I suppose I could always be wrong, but I always assumed since the spacing of the first line wasn't consistent with any of the other scale marks, they just started at 500 rpm. The spacing is the same going up from 500. The "500" line as I call it (you assumed 250) is also slightly thicker than the x250/x750 lines further up the scale, matching the rest of the x500 lines. One valid reason they could be skipping the first 500 rpm is that gauges are typically inaccurate at the extremities of their range. As a result, most dash gauges typically measure beyond the scale. Also, the engine likely will never be going that slowly, and probably it would stall before it dropped much below 500. It is, I grant you, a little weird that they do it this way. Of course, this is just the assumption I've made about my tach. I could still be wrong, but I'm reasonably confident this is the way the tach should be read. If someone who actually knows one way or the other how the bottom end of the tach should be read, I'm sure everyone would appreciate if they were to chime in.

If you look at the sub-1000rpm range on your tach and compare it to the rest of the tach, you'll see that it basically skips the first 500 rpm. Looks to me like you're looking at 700 and then 600.

Like Jim said, check your thermostat. They're cheap and easy to replace, and if they stick open, they can lead to the engine not warming up properly, which in turn can lead to a funky heater and possibly even the white sludge. Course, a funky heater could also be because you've got low coolant, and low coolant and white sludge could still be a bad head gasket. But you'd likely be noticing other symptoms of a bad head gasket by now. Your brakes issue sounds more like they're in need of a bleed to me. A vacuum leak could potentially cause both brake and heater symptoms, but I think it's unlikely. I believe the respective systems get their vacuum off separate vacuum ports. But again, check your thermostat first. Or just replace it because they're cheap and you'll have to pull it out to check it anyhow. A bad tstat recently lead to my MJ taking typically more than ten miles of highway driving to warm up to operating temp after sitting idling for five minutes after having the block heater plugged in all night.

RockAuto sells bent exhaust tubing for Comanches, same as factory. I believe it's manufactured by Walker.

The valve cover is a pretty common place for leaks. Wouldn't surprise me if it had been swapped to try to correct that. They don't really need to hold much pressure, so they're usually pretty thin and warp pretty easily, and that's not just limited to Jeeps. I've even seen them made of plastic. Don't know how close you are to the truck, but if you look on the passenger side of the engine, on a rectangular boss above the distributor, there should be a serial number of sorts for the block itself. Casting number, whatever it's properly called. Should tell you the date the engine rolled off its assembly line.

Then what was it if it wasn't Renix? First year of the HO was '91.

Here in SK it's only illegal to have an unregged/uninsured vehicle towed with axle(s) on the ground if it's got a salvage title.

;) that's why I used it. The worst thing though is that I didn't have time to walk from somewhere I could legally plug in, and then didn't want to run my MJ for only a couple minutes to move it, so it'll have been sitting outside unplugged for 12 hours before I can leave, and I only have that bunnyhug (read hoodie) for the drive home... Also, getting stuff done? Who cares about the cold! Dress warm and it'll get done anyhow.

Not really much snow falling all the way up here... but this morning when I left home it was -28°F, -51°F windchill... not to one-up you all. And guess whose alarm didn't wake him up this morning so he woke up 25 minutes before the start of a final exam with a 20 minute drive there, so he threw on a t-shirt and pants, running shoes, and just grabbed a bunnyhug on the way out the door... Sucks that your rad is late, OP.

You can still get a fuel pump. It's the fuel gauge sending unit you can't get any more. The filter is in the fuel line, and not in the tank, so it may not have been replaced. Although probably it was. Check to see if it looks about the same age as the tank. If it's even a little questionable that it's not as new as the tank, change it. It's on the driver's side frame rail right ahead of the tank. Follow the fuel lines to it.

If you've got thick rubber soles and your buddy doesn't, or is leaning against the pole, grab the fence and then poke him.

I believe (but don't know for certain) that on a 2wd, the speedometer gear is on the tranny, but on the transfer case for a 4x4.

For any electrical connection, you want metal on metal. Even paint can prevent a proper connection. But yes, most spray-in bedliners are rubberized in some way.

Was the sticker dirty? A 6 or a 5 can sometimes look a lot like an 8.

If you're trying to ground through the bedliner, good luck. Rubber doesn't conduct any better than plastic. Everything said still applies.

This site doesn't host images. You'll have to use an external image host and link to it the way you've been doing. Lots of members here use photobucket. Facebook photos can also work, depending on your privacy settings. I personally prefer imgur.com, but any image hosting site will work. My '91 MJ definitely has rust on it, but it seems that it actually rusted from the outside in. The frame looks fine, and is reasonably clean. I've had a bit of a peak in with a flashlight and inspection mirror, and from the small amount I saw, it doesn't look bad at all. I also have just about zero steel in my rockers and some bubbles in the fenders, but the floor pans are still solid. :dunno: Given that you're in SK, you'll need to have an out-of province inspection done whether or not there was a safety passed in Manitoba. I could save fiftyish bucks/year if I registered mine in SK, but the amount of work it would require to pass an SK inspection simply means it isn't worth it to me, especially considering the $350 price tag I hear it costs just for the inspection. As as student, I can still legally drive with my 'Toba reg and tags. My permanent address is near Russell, MB. If I actually manage to save up money properly next summer, I'm thinking of getting a more fuel efficient "second" car, which would likely get SK plates. But that's a bit irrelevant...

Whereabouts is it/you located? I recall a red '92 went up for sale about a year ago in Prince Albert, but I don't know what happened to it, and I don't think I remember it being an Eliminator. That picture (and your talk of "safety inspection") kinda screams Winnipeg at me, but it could honestly be anywhere... Wait, found the kijiji ad. Heh, Morden. Close enough. ;) It looks pretty clean for a Manitoba truck. If this is exactly the truck you're looking for, well... they only made so many in '92, and only so many of them were 4L ax15's, and only so many of them were red, and only so many of them are Eliminators... Yes, it's rare, but with the work that needs done to it, I'd say the $2500 he's asking might be a little steep. But then I paid more for mine in worse shape (although somehow safetied) so... yeah. The MJ didn't get the HO until '91, so that limits your criteria to those two years. Typically I'm in Winnipeg at some point over the Christmas break, but I'm going the other direction this year. Otherwise I would have offered to check it out for you. I've been through Morden quite a few times, but unfortunately the only person I know in Morden still hates me cause I was hitting on her roommate a few years back...

Not wanting to go too far off topic here... but yeah, that's pretty normal. Everything's a lot more expensive up here, even though our dollars are near as makes no difference equal. Shipping to Canada is only $4 less. Canada Post handles far fewer pieces of mail than the USPS (probably about 10% based on population) and has ~150% the cost of travel based on fuel prices. And the large urban centers are much further apart here, meaning things mostly need to travel further.

The question I'm asking myself is why you need to rev that high... apart from driving like I do... a bit of a hoon... And my MPG reflects my driving habits. Peak torque is around 2200 rpm, and I can accelerate to highway speeds without breaking 2000. It just takes a bit longer. But I'd just do standard stuff for buying a new vehicle, plugs, wires, cap & rotor, change fluids, check all lights are working, and not worry about the engine unless there's cause to worry. 150,000 miles really isn't all that much for a 4.0. There are some on here with twice that.

He's in Canada. That's not a particularly outlandish price up here...

Not my brackets. I pulled the pic off a thread on here from about six years ago, I think. There are some NOS bumper brackets on Ebay right now, I think they were at ~$150. (ouch...) This summer I saw a rear MJ bumper in excellent shape at a JY as well, but only had a 3/8" socket set with me and couldn't turn the bolts to get it off. A week later I went back with a 1/2" set and a breaker bar, and still couldn't get them off due partly to rust but mostly to time constraints, so I soaked everything in PB blaster, and planned on going back the next week. And then never made it back. Given the yard in question and it's location, it may still be there the next time I'm back home (it looked like it had already been sitting there for several months, as there was grass growing above where the rear leaf springs had dug into the ground... rear axle was missing), but more than likely I just made it a whole lot easier for the next guy...