gogmorgo

To each their own. I went out to the west coast for Christmas, and it just felt... wrong... it was in the 40's or 50's (F) the whole time, and it was a little unsettling somehow that it was as warm as it was. If it wasn't for the family I hadn't seen for years, I couldn't have come home sooner. I don't know what it is. I've even had people here call me crazy. It's hardly in my blood, either, as a I'm really only a 1.5ish generation Canadian (in my family tree, only my mother and her mother were born in Canada). Yeah, freezing your @$$ off kinda sucks, as does the painful return of feeling to numb body parts, but if you dress properly you don't notice so much. Something I've always maintained, you can always put on more clothes and be comfortable in the cold, but you can only take off so much before you start getting funny looks. I personally start getting uncomfortable around 80°F. I was down in Nebraska at 110°F back in June, and for me that was basically hell...

If the far side of the crack was higher than the near side, or the gap was enough that the truck fell noticeably before hitting the far side, it would have been just like hitting a curb. It could easily have been enough pressure to burst the tires or if he didn't hit straight on, break the bead.

I've read a few times about a thing that produces similar "clogged cat" symptoms happening with brand new exhaust systems. Basically what happens is that the exhaust tubing has the same (or slightly smaller) exterior diameter as the muffler input/output, so the exhaust tubing sits inside it, but gets pushed in far enough it pretty well hits a baffle inside the muffler, basically blocking off flow. I'm guessing that's probably not what happened, because I've never actually seen a muffler connected that way outside of the internet, but if that's the way yours is hooked up, it can't hurt to check.

No, You have a wire crossed or incorrectly done.. Even with your foot on the brakes, Your flashers should still flash normaly. K, thanks. Doesn't really surprise me though.. The tail light harness is a bit of a botched attempt at a rats nest, but beyond that it seemed to be working normally so I didn't really want to get into it. But a recent electrical fire has me a little paranoid about bad wiring. But now I know I need to do more than reconstruct what is there. Thanks!

Beats the cost of a headlight switch and associated melted plug/wiring and losing your headlights at night.. Cruiser, I'll let you say "I told you so" now. Sure enough, I never got around to doing anything about this, and not only did it melt the plug/wiring, it set the switch and wires on fire last week. If that's not encouragement for anyone else reading this thread, I don't know what else could be. $50 sure beats burning down the truck. I was fortunate enough to notice the fire and was able to put it out before it could do too much damage, and to have it happen in the daylight, but you might not be so lucky. As it is, no headlights when there's only eight hours of daylight, and having to pull the dash off to replace the wires and connectors for the switch as well as the switch itself sucks bad enough, in addition to having my Sunday Best smelling like burnt plastic. I can't quite imagine how much it would suck to lose the whole truck. Again, to everyone else, don't be an idiot like me. Not only does it beat the cost of the wiring, it could cost you your truck. This upgrade is definitely worth it, no two ways about it.

So this is why the hazard lights go solid whenever I step on the brakes? I kinda had plans to tackle that issue within the next month or so... but I guess it's not an issue...

The makings for a decent bonfire!

Mine started yesterday morning at -30ºF and it fired up just fine, even though I forgot to plug in the block heater. Cranked a little slow and I let it idle for a couple minutes before driving, but otherwise no extra drama.

Went out for a bit of a play on the ice yesterday myself. Didn't break through, though. Gotta love Saskatchewan winters. It's still a bit of a weird feeling, though, knowing that somewhere down there there's liquid water...

And here I was thinking it looked one hell of a lot warmer?? Geez, even the grass is green! :thumbsup:

Yeah, that's more or less what I worked out. Then decided I don't have anywhere near enough room in my budget for new springs...

The General Spring leaves that I assume were brought up (http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/gsc-571.htm) have a couple inches or so of lift as well as the military wrap with the Metric Tonne load capacity are roughly $30/spring less than the Hell Creek which are basically a factory-style replacement for the Metric Tonne spings. (http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/)

You can likely get one from a junk yard, but the new should last longer, be free of pathogens, and cost ~$30 at the chain parts stores.

If you pick up a 3.4 from a V6 Camaro or Firebird, you can bolt it right in where your 2.8 was because it's externally the same engine. 160hp/200lb-ft over your 115hp/150lb-ft. Weight shouldn't be noticeably different. You'd be looking for engine code S (eighth digit of vin) on a 93-95 Camaro/Firebird. That's probably the best/easiest swap you could do as it shouldn't involve any fabrication.

Good to see new members! Welcome! Also, you mention crown land, so you're Canadian? Where are you from, if you don't mind? Also a broke student, in Saskatoon. Single with no kids, though :(

Don't worry about it. A mod can get rid of it if they want.

The forum switched to updated software since this post. Don't think the checkbox exists any more, but I'm on my phone so can't check.

So you design your own cars? Thought you drove Jeeps. Gear oil is rated differently so you don't mix the two; not because motor oil won't hold up to use in gears, but because gear oil won't hold up to the temperature and contamination from the motor.

Broken flexplate is doing this to me right now. Makes a knocking sound from the bellhousing area. Couldn't find it without pulling the inspection plate, even with a stethoscope.

Just so you know, my nearly completely stock lwb 4.0 auto 4x4 sits at 1900kg (4200lbs) with me, a couple duffle bags of tools, and a spare tire in it. You might want to roll over a scale before assuming it'll never weigh more than 4000lbs.

Shouldn't be a problem. There's an engine building race at a local car show, and they fire up the engines with on fluids at all, and run them for ten seconds. They've been using the same engines for years. You might get oil everywhere, though.

Cool, thanks. That's what I thought. But back to my original thought, the 4x4 light shouldn't go out until 4x4 has disengaged, (regardless of lever position) thus serving at least a small purpose, correct?

I've got a one-piece shaft in the cad housing. It's temporary until I can swap in a non-cad axle. But if I pull up in 4x4, put it back in 2wd, I can still spin the fronts. It won't disengage until I'm moving and let off the gas. Should I look into that?

The light also tells you when 4x4 disengages, no? I mostly use 4x4 to keep my front wheels from locking at icy stops. I stop, put it back in 2wd, but the light won't go out and I'm still in 4x4 until I pull away and let it coast. I'm told that's normal?

Yeah... The things people throw out... :(