gogmorgo

Basically any vehicle over fifteen years old can be legally imported to Canada and won't need modifications. I'm not sure what would happen if you then tried to import it to the US...

That woman's hockey final left a very dirty floor. Also, British refs suck. But now we're up to 5th. Three bronze medals behind the Ruskies. If you add in the gold medal we're going to get tomorrow in men's hockey, we'll bump the USA out of second place. ;) Something that just occurred to me while watching this game: we keep calling it the "Balshoy Ice Dome". "Balshoy" is Russian for "big". So we've given a very fancy name to what they called the "big arena"...

Edited: never mind... didn't realize you were just talking about the head...

Clicky That's a link to a 1988 service manual. It's got wiring diagrams, and I can confirm that the same headlight wiring is used in my '91 so your '89 shouldn't be any different, except maybe for wire colours. It's not "layman's perspective" by any means, but electrical diagrams aren't that difficult to read and it will pay for you to learn. There's even a guide to how to read them attached. I just used this as a guide for wiring in a new headlight switch connector on my '91. The factory wiring isn't quite up to snuff for the headlights, and the connectors tend to melt. Mine set itself on fire. The headlight switch has constant power to it, so that might not be the worst place to start looking for a drain or a short that's blowing your fuse. If you're dealing with a hacked up harness though, it'll likely be easiest to pull a complete one from the same model year (An XJ's will work with a couple changes with tail lights and stuff, but an MJ's will go right in) and swap it in, instead of trying to patch yours back together. Also look into upgrading the headlight wiring with something like the putco H4 kit.

You say you have a 6" lift. How was that accomplished in the rear? If you've got a SOA setup (spring over axle; the factory MJ setup has the axle mounted to the top of the leaf springs, putting the axle below the leaf springs is a cheap and easy way to lift 5-6") then the previous owner may have done away with the the factory spring plates, along with the shock mounts. Here's another picture of the stock setup: Notice how the shocks mount to a "spring plate" below the springs, with the springs under the axle. And here's a picture of a soa setup: Image Not Found In this setup, the spring plates have simply been flipped over and stuck on top. The shocks in use likely aren't the same length as the stock setup, but you say you need new shocks anyway. Also worth pointing out, the top photo is a long bed model, so the upper shock mounts are in front of the rear axle. The bottom photo is a short bed so the upper shock mounts are behind the axle. It doesn't make any difference to the lower shock mounts, but the spring plates are "sided" and swap sides to put the lower shock studs closer to the uppers and reduce interference between the axle and the shock. i.e. the driver's side spring plate on a long bed will go on the passenger side of a short bed and vice-versa. As far as what you'd need to do to your setup, we don't know what it is. Pictures would be helpful. Depending on how it's set up, you might be able to weld some properly braced shock mounts onto the "flat piece of steel", or you could see if there are any MJ's in local junk yards that you could get a pair of stock spring plates off of. Or contact the previous owner to see if he still has them kicking around.

How I check for spark when I'm alone with no timing light: As a bit of a disclaimer, this can be very dangerous so try at your own risk. Of course watch out for moving parts you could get caught in, and try not to touch anything other than the well insulated screwdriver handles... the screwdriver in your left hand will have very high current through it, and the one in your right hand will have very high voltage. Also something worth looking into, I've read in a few places that the Haynes Manual doesn't quite have the firing order right. Not so much that it's wrong, but that it's off by one on the distributor, and it may just be a case of the manual being unclear. Either way, this is what the Haynes manual says: And this is what most people have found is accurate. The difference is the location of the cap's hold-down screws relative to the #1 terminal. Backfiring through the intake, if you diagnosed that correctly, could easily be caused by the spark plugs firing while the intake valves are still open. And that would be the case if ignition was advanced 60°, as it would be if the Haynes manual does truly have it wrong.

Total medal count as of now would put the Netherlands ahead of the US. Canada's sitting pretty at 8th. Another gold would bump us up to 5th.

I wouldn't trust a hitch welded to the frame of an MJ. It's not solid steel like most truck frames; it's just a bunch of layers of sheet metal.

Can confirm, the AW4 does have a locking torque converter.

You don't have to use photobucket. Any image hosting service will work. ComancheClub doesn't host pictures, so you have to link them in from outside. If you've got some other way to upload photos already, go for it.

I think the tow package would have come with the D44. However, when you ordered a new Jeep, you could tick whatever options you wanted. As a result, there are some oddball factory configurations out there. Could also have been swapped in. You could try contacting Chrysler with your vin to see if they can unearth the original build sheet, but you'd have to get pretty lucky... A lot of the records were lost somewhere between AMC and Chrysler.

Don't find the standings count funny at all. You take first place. You get a gold. That single first place is worth more than any number of second places. So you "win" by getting the most wins. This way, no one could be said to have "won" without actually outright winning anything. You have to remember that the point of the Olympics is to find the world's best athletes. Doesn't really make sense to say "oh, we have the most not-quite-best athletes"... Winning is everything at the Olympics. Seems like a very American approach... funny there's an American complaining about it!

It's fairly common for any oil leak on an MJ or XJ to be mis-diagnosed as the rear main seal. Because oil flows down (who woulda thunk?) and the engine is tilted backwards in the chassis, most leaks make their way back to right under the rear main seal. Leaky valve covers are very common as well. Eventually I'll get around to fixing mine.

... now I'm questioning my decision to park beside the old chicken barn on campus, just cause it's closer....

GM's planning on restoring the cars. Don't know they really had much choice in it though.

When were the oil and filter last changed? If you don't know, best to change them. Use a decent quality filter.

You passed up a diesel MJ? :nuts: Any word on what happened to it? Someone on here might still be interested.

Those are optional factory mirrors. Looks like a fairly original truck in decent shape. I can easily see it going for that up here.

And as of now, Germany in First with 7/2/1, Canada in second with 4/4/2 and Norway in third with 4/3/6.

O2 sensor was on the truck when I got it, don't know how old it is. Wouldn't surprise me at all if it's bad. I've got a pretty full day tomorrow but I should be able to do a couple small tests. The MJ's parked in my spot on campus for now. It even got there mostly under it's own power. I went back to where I left it this afternoon, and it started right up. I ran some errands, dicked around in the fresh snow on campus for a bit, then went to park. It died once and wouldn't restart, but I left it for twenty minutes and came back and it fired right up. The codes cleared themselves... pretty sure I need new battery cables, so that's another thing on the list of stuff to do. Le sigh.

So it happened again, although more drastically this time. I was driving, and the truck shut off, after backfiring a bunch as I slowed down to a red light. I was able to start again, but only made it a short distance down the road before it backfired a whole bunch (massive amount of clattering) and died. Couldn't get it to restart this time. I unplugged and then plugged back in the CPS connector, and was able to get it going with some throttle input, but it died when I tried to let it idle. I checked the codes, and had a 51 and a 53, so lean condition and pcm fault. I managed to get it started in neutral, and neutral dropped to get going without dropping to an idle. It made it maybe another half mile before it started coughing and backfiring, at which point I shifted back into neutral and brought the revs up to 2000rpm. It smoothed out, and I was able to go back into gear. Drove another 1/2 mile, hit a light, and put it in neutral so I could keep the revs up. Neutral dropped again to get going, and the wheels spun on ice and I slid sideways, took my foot off the gas, and the engine backfired and died. Couldn't get it to restart. Got a tow off the highway to a safer place from a passerby. I unplugged the cps and plugged it back in, but it didn't work. Unplugged a bunch of other stuff, but at this point my battery was basically dead and could barely crank the engine over, so I called a buddy. As soon as he showed up, for $#!&s, I tried to start it, and it fired up like nothing was wrong. :fs1: So I drove it over to a better (read legal) parking spot and left it, cause I didn't want to deal with it not making it all the way to school or home and I was running late for a test. So it's still sitting out there. But questions: Would a bad cps lead to a lean condition? I've been wondering this for a while, as the engine's been running hot if I leave it idling for extended time. Would unplugging the CPS lead to the computer throwing a PCM Fault code (53)? And could a known cracked flexplate lead to faulty CPS readings, or damage the CPS? I'm planning on replacing the flexplate ASAP. I've got reading week next week, so I should have lots of time. Also planning on replacing the harmonic balancer, as my buddy noticed that the serp belt was riding a little too close to the engine on the fan pulley, and the HB has a pretty good wobble to it.

Considering it's '92, I highly doubt there's a 2.8 in there...

Which side did you pull off? The driver's side definitely vents, don't know that the passenger side does, though. I get no heat out of it. Check out this thread. This pic has a whole lotta crazy going on, but you should still be able to see where there's a very obvious vent in the MJ b-pillar.

My sway bar is also bent, but nowhere near as bad as yours! Does it even still connect to the front axle like that?

Yes I do have a split window, but I'd have to disagree with you on the decorativeness of the b-pillar vents. When I've got my truck running with the heat on, there's warm air coming out of the cab vents. In order to be able to close the doors easily, there has to be some way to relieve the pressure built up from slamming a door shut. There also has to be somewhere for air to escape so the heater/ac can continue delivering fresh air. On the XJ the vents are in the rear hatch (I think). MJ's have no rear hatch, so the solution was putting vents in the b-pillars.