gogmorgo

jalopnik.com/how-they-test-fsae-up-north-1535263014 And if you watch our video, you might even catch a glimpse of my MJ in the background. Because Saskatchewan. But mostly because Racecar.

Definitely a Fiat chassis. If it's the Panda then it won't be too bad off road. The 4x4 Panda is pretty capable. But if it's the 500 platform then you'll be up $#!& creek.

I used to work at a gas station that sold a door lock deicer, basically a little bottle with a nozzle shaped like a key and it squirted a high-alcohol fluid into the lock cylinder. Never used it though. I've also seen key fobs with little battery-operated heated blades for the same purpose. However, you shouldn't be completely unable to unlock the door unless the lock itself is jammed... the button inside doesn't turn the key cylinder. I once had to open that gas station after freezing rain, but the door was covered in solid ice and the deadbolt cylinder was frozen shut as well. I could get into a storage shed (we were also a hardware store) and I grabbed a blowtorch and hammer. Used the hammer to break some of the 3/4" layer of ice away, then used the blow torch on the lock cylinder. Took me ten minutes to get in.

You're a quality operator cause you stopped before it sheared ;)

I've had three people pull out in front of me. Twice I was doing 70 in the right lane with traffic stopped in the left because everyone turns there. My fault. Another time a guy left a parking lot, cut across both lanes to turn left. Never looked my way.

My gear indicator isn't lined up so sometimes I think I'm in reverse when I'm really in neutral. But you checked that... Check your atf level (engine on after a short drive). Top up or if it's brown, change it and the filter. Watch for metal in the atf.

Mm. Forgot about one. I was about four miles from home, and popped a brake line in my dad's Chevy Van. Thing is, though, I was also 1200 feet above home. And separating me from home was some of the steepest, twistiest, gravel road I've ever encountered. Many blind corners. Posted speed limit is 12mph. The hill had been freshly graded so was very loose. It has also rained a couple inches that morning, so the loose gravel was basically mud. And I had no brakes coming into the first corner at 45 mph (the speed limit is 40 until right at the top of the hill). Did I mention that the road cut down along the side of a ravine as the easiest way down? And that the only thing separating me from a 700 foot plunge pretty well straight down was a 50 year old wooden gaurdrail and a couple shrubs? I dropped the auto tranny into 2nd from 3rd (Drive) which was enough to break the back end loose or else I would have gone all the way to first. Somehow I managed to hang onto it going sideways around the corner, dropped it into first to keep the back end out and wrestled it around the next corner (a switchback in the other direction, this time pointed straight into a cliff, not off one). After that the road straightened out a bit and I was slowed down well enough that I wasn't sliding any more, so I coasted the rest of the way down the hill in first gear. Probably the most butt-puckering ride I've ever had in a vehicle. Right when I hit the brakes and they went to the floor, I passed a vehicle going the other way. Right after I got the van pointed straight down the road again I passed another vehicle going the other way. If I'd been a couple seconds earlier or later, I probably would have pushed someone else over the edge. Despite it being a nasty stretch of gravel road, it was still a fairly well-travelled stretch of "highway" in a national park. Brakes are useful things. Two weeks later I bought my MJ. My dad replaced only the rusted out line that blew, and is still driving that van. In fact I drove it 1200 miles and then back through the mountains with my family for our Christmas vacation this year... if I'd remembered that, I might have been a little more hesitant...

My point about carbs being obsolete was more to say that while I know a little bit about them (I've rebuild a couple), it's not really worth my time to figure out how to properly tune them. The few I rebuilt, I just cleaned them and put in new gaskets and stuff. Definitely not my area of expertise. That's not to say though that they don't work. Set them up properly and they can work really well. But fuel injection is just better on so many levels. I've never heard of the water-eye-dropper thing before, although it shouldn't hurt anything as long as you don't go nuts with the water. Sounds like something that would work to clean things up at least a bit. If that doesn't work, you might also want to try some good old Seafoam.

Well, both. It's been making a racket on and off since the summer, which I traced back to the bellhousing area sometime in September. It was either in late September or early October (before the snow at least) when I pulled the inspection cover off and saw what I thought was a barely visible hairline crack right up next to the crankshaft flange. At which point I ordered a new flexplate. I was planning on putting it in in December, but wasn't able to make time. As a full-time student I don't really have many opportunities to take my MJ out of commission for more than a day or two, which is why it took me so long to get around to it. I wanted a couple extra days in case something happened. As it turned out, I needed the couple extra days.

Well, it took me four days over the last weekend to get the job done (first time I've ever dropped a transmission so I was going slow so I didn't @#$% anything up), but the new flexplate is in as of Monday and since then the truck's been running beautifully. The crack in the old flexplate ran all the way around the crankshaft bolts, splitting the flexplate in two separate pieces with a couple small chunks missing, so it's frankly a miracle that it ran and drove at all. There was about 10° of play between the two pieces of the flexplate, so God only knows how the ecu was able to figure out any kind of timing. But it runs a $#!& ton better. It's awesome. Hasn't stalled out or refused to start yet.

Not a bad read. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieseling#Potential_causes Based on what's in that article, I'd say check to make sure you've got the correct fuel/air mixture. Too rich and you'll leave deposits that can ignite fuel, too lean and you might be running too hot in the cylinders. You should be able to tell what kind of mixture you've got by looking at the spark plugs. Google to find out how. Or if you really want to shell out you could get a wide-band O2 sensor kit... Also make sure you've got a decent idle speed, no vacuum leaks, and the throttle isn't sticking open. Don't really have much else to offer you. In my opinion, carbs have been obsolete since the '60's, if not sooner.

What year? Also what engine/transmission combo? If it's an automatic (aw4), you might want to look into this: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/ If you've got issues with reverse lights, or it won't start in park but will in neutral, this is likely your issue. Definitely not worth the big bucks they want for a new one. I just recently cleaned up my NSS following the above link, and it put an end to me having to short the solenoid a couple times a week. I threw a bead of RTV around the gasket when reassembling it for good measure.

Yeah, I made my own based off of this guy's page. He's an Aussie and so his metricity can be a little confusing sometimes, but if you look into some of the other stuff he's doing... really top notch. But that's beyond the point. I made up a basic wiring diagram that helped me make a little bit more sense of what he's saying, which I may still have kicking around somewhere. I was eventually planning on making a diy thread, but didn't really have time and forgot to take pics while I was at it, so I don't think it's going to happen. Back on topic, I can't entirely answer your question. I'm not sure how/if the DRL fits into the equation as mine haven't ever worked since I got the truck. The harness plugs directly into the factory headlight sockets to use as triggers for the relays, though, so I don't see why you wouldn't retain DRL. Whenever you get power to the factory headlight sockets by any mechanism, the relays should still trigger. To put it another way, the harness is downstream of all the factory switches and wiring except for the headlight bulbs themselves, so whenever the factory setup would have the headlights on, so should the upgrade harness.

The smaller spark plug gap could make a bit of a difference in deposits as well. If you go for a good rip down the freeway, that should help clear things up a little. A good left-lane cruise, but don't really push it hard. Didn't really get to say this cause my phone limits posts to 255 characters, but my dad's old Chevy used to have a run on issue. He "cured" it by switching to premium fuel. I borrowed it for the summer a few years back, and pulled the plugs cause I didn't like the way it was running. Not only were they wrong (but not by much in terms of heat range) they had barely any electrode left, the gaps were way out, and they were mostly covered in carbon. I later found out they'd been in there since he bough the van 15 years earlier. New, proper spec and properly gapped plugs completely got rid of the run-on, allowed me to switch back to regular, and increased mpg's by 16%, despite driving it harder and faster than my dad ever did. He still doesn't believe me that it's fine to run it on regular, and despite him driving like a little old lady to my rally driver he's been getting on average 8% less mpg than I did that summer. Not to mention wasting money on premium.

If you've ever been at the engine of a full-size van, you'll be familiar with the concept of the "doghouse", the removable hump of firewall that covers the engine and allows access to it from the interior of the vehicle. They used to be lined with a fiberglass matting with foil over it. I've seen similar products on hot water tanks in older homes. The doghouse would still get warm or really long or hard hauls, but considering it was the top of the engine bay, it wasn't bad. If you can even still find it, you may be able to put some up on the underside of the transmission tunnel.

Pull the spark plugs, make sure they're clean and the right ones. Run-on can be caused by plugs holding heat too long or carbon deposits that are still burning, among other things. Lots of short trips where the engine doesn't warm up can cause depositing.

That has to be a fun ride You bet it is. Here's a link to our youtube channel and facebook page if you want to check it out. We should have another promotional ice racing video out within the next few days, which I haven't seen yet but based on a bit of the raw footage I've seen it promises to be pretty awesome. Every year we build a completely new car, so the older videos feature older (read "less competitive") cars. A couple of the older cars are still kicking around, and feature in some of the newer videos as well. Yes, this is shameless self-promotion ;) Thanks for the link. Some sweet stuff there!

Adding onto what dainternetguy says about them. Quite often once you add shipping, there's not really all that much in terms of savings to get stuff up here. However, they carry things that the chains up here don't. Cheapest quote I got on a flexplate for my MJ locally was $225. That was at the dealership. Everyone else said they couldn't get it. Mine came shipped from RockAuto for $85. Napa wants $350 to get a gas tank shipped up here from the US (even though the Spectra ones are made in Canada). Rockauto will get one here for $250. Sometimes with large orders coming from the same warehouse you might win on shipping, but not always.

Currently working on it replacing it, but I can turn the outside of my flexplate about 5° in either direction without moving the inside of it...

The original TorSen (they're calling it the T1 and it's still somewhat available) is a pretty slick unit. We run one in our Formula SAE car. You wouldn't even know it's there, but it grabs HARD. Even on a 15' radius turn you've got to work to break either rear wheel loose, and we're talking 90hp in a car that weighs ~600lb with driver. 10,000rpm launches and we'll shear the splines off a chro-moly axle shaft before anything happens to the TorSen.

Mine needs a bit of a trim too, but it's sticking around for a bit. I'm never without one cause I look like I'm 16 without it (I'm 22), but I let it grow out a bit more for winter. I've got some Warn(?) hair clippers that I use to trim it (and sometimes my own hair). #2 and neatly trimmed in the summer, then I quit shaving in September to let my cheeks fill out a bit on my way to the #6 length. Between my Scandinavian, German, and Scottish ancestry, I've got no trouble growing facial hair, although some strange genetic combination leads to my beard having a strong copper tint to it. None of my other hair is anywhere near as red.

That was definitely an intense game. I wouldn't have been disappointed or surprised if that had gone 1-0 the other way. Your men put up a huge fight. I mean, really... 30 second shifts and our players were still coming off the ice exhausted. Hope you can stick it to Finland, cause your team deserves at least the Bronze. In the immortal words of the Arrogant Worms, "Swedish players must be geeks! (hahahahaaa) Cause they still got own real teeth!" But really, this should be another decent game.

:agree: Yup, it's all in jest. Good natured ribbing. At least that's what I've been assuming. :dunno: And in a couple weeks we'll have all forgotten about it until 2018 comes around. And continuing in that trend, with the men's curling gold and another in ski cross, we've displaced the US from second place without counting our upcoming hockey gold, which will push us into first again, just like 2010. :yes:

7 NHL teams in Canada compared to 23 in the US. But per capita we have 0.000,000,207 NHL teams compared to your 0.000,000,073,27. Yeah, you may have three times the hockey teams but you also have ten times the population supporting them. And quite a few of your hockey teams can barely support themselves. Last franchise to change countries came our way. Sure, Gold isn't quite the only thing that counts, but the others only become relevant as tie-breakers. You Americans sure have a funny way of making the standings in your favour... http://olympics.cbc.ca/medals/index.html http://www.bbc.com/sport/winter-olympics/2014/medals/countries http://www.sochi2014.com/en/medals heck, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2014_Winter_Olympics_medal_table

The comment was on the fact that the only real competition in hockey is the U.S. ;) No, you're right. I screwed up.