WahooSteeler

Same on the fruit woods, I'll use apple wood with pork tenderloins. If you like salmon, put a slab with melted butter and Chef Prudhome's redfish seasoning on your grill over some of that cherry. Deeeelish!

Most, if not all, of your questions are answered in this similar thread......

Chef Jeff, saw Guy Fieri sample some fried ribs on DDD recently, I had to put a bucket under my mouth I was salivating so bad LOL. I'm gonna have to do that ASAP. I was going to do a shoulder on the Weber kettle this weekend but like you had rain the whole time. Had to do it crockpot style. Turned out good but liquid smoke is no substitute fro the real thing.

Curious. In the 10+ years I have owned my MJ and been on CC, I don't remember ever reading or hearing about a shackle that will lift the rear of an MJ 2". Additionally, any XJ shackle on an MJ will be roughly 1/2 of what is advertised for lift on an XJ. Hence, Pete's comment that a standard XJ shackle will actually lower an MJ. These are reported to lift the rear of an XJ 1", so that would only give @ 1/2" to an MJ.

Yes, those appear to be a factory 3+2 MT pack. 3 primary springs and 2 overload springs. Nice.

Sprinkle baking soda on your floor (assuming you have carpet) and your seats (assuming they are cloth), let them sit for a day or more if you can. Vacuum off. Might take two or three times but once the baking soda works its way in to the fibers it will get better.

Teraflex has backing plates for D44s that need no modification, no drilling or need to enlarge the holes. When you order you must specify if they are early D44s or late model.

I bet if you took that cigarette out of his hand, he couldn't speak a full sentence LOL. The one he had in the other vid was down to the filter LOL.

I bet those would work perfect if you had a toolbox on there.

Check the diameter of that kit on the drag link. For a little bit more you can upgrade to a later model XJ drag link that is much thicker. A ZJ drag link will work also, but the geometry is slightly different whereas the later XJ unit is still the same geometry for XJ/MJ. Moog DS1238 is your part number. O'Reilys, Napa and Advance all sell "in house" private branded units with the same part number for a little less. Don't hold me to it but many people believe those are made by Moog too.

Absolutely. Which brings the question up of where is that on the 4.0L Renix and HO? For those that use their trucks as a DD and/or never "wheel" it, seems that would be the optimal starting point to shoot for. Certainly there are other factors of does the driver do mostly city driving? Highway? Reasonable mix? But again, seems like a logical place to start from and then if the driver wheels a lot, hauls a lot, tows a lot, etc then they adjust from there.

So above the wheel wells you didn't notice any rust? Might have to make a phone call on that one.

I have 3.55s, auto, 4.0L, 31s. As another poster noted, on flat highway it can stretch it's legs pretty nice. Off the line it doesn't jump but it's not bad at all IMO. My plan is to go to 3.73s and try to get a little better mileage than 4.10s but pull grades better and when I do some occasional hauling. The past week I have been using a friends dump trailer to haul a lot of brush to a dump site about 5 miles away. The 3.55s didn't seem t0o struggle to bad, I'm guessing the heaviest weight I pulled was 3500lbs between trailer and load. I don't do any wheeling, some mild trail running once in a blue moon so 4.10s don't seem necessary based on other threads I've researched here. Very interested in this thread.........

The hitch is for adding the sissy wheels when you load it so it doesn't do a wheel stand LOL

How did the bed look? I assume it's a long bed since it's an 86

Thanks. I couldn't see how it would make a difference, but you never know. Interesting that if you do a search of aftermarket parts for this, the OE style with the beveled outlet is only listed for HO years and newer, whereas this simpler design is listed for pre-91's. The OE style with the beveled outlet is much much easier to install/uninstall since the main outlet is off center, leaving a lot more room to work the lower bolt w/out having to loosen or remove your belt.

Had to replace the water outlet/tstat housing today. My question is, the stock unit that came off the truck has that beveled inlet as seen in the pic below, but the replacement that I put on today does not. I needed to get the truck driveable for now and everything seemed OK with a 30+ minute test drive including hwy and stop and go driving. I know there are replacements online that are the same as OE, but is there a major advantage to the OE design?

Pirate, I found the same thread recently and have just started running T6, anxious to see if there is any noticeable difference after 2-3 oil changes, although my MJ never has really burned oil. I also add B&G MOA to all my vehicles (since they currently are all over 100k) as it was recommended to me by both a shop I use and the european used car dealer I have bought my cars from for 13yrs. A few years ago my 2003 BMW 525 w/@165k on it at the time was burning a lot of oil and always had a nice puff of smoke under hard acceleration. After about 4 oil changes with a can of MOA, it had a very noticeable drop in oil consumption and all but a minor puff of smoke under WOT. Definitely a fan of MOA.

Pete, I'm confused. For as long as I can remember and the 10+ years I have been on here, I've always understood that 1) 0-3" lifts required no modifications to steering or driveline components, and 2) based on #1, WJ arms were also perfectly fine to "upgrade" to if the truck is lifted 0-3".

Heavily discussed topic on here. Do a search using "floor insulation", "sound insulation", "floor covering" etc..............LOTS of threads to read with lots of different products used and most definitely LOTS of different opinions LOL.

I seem to recall I've read on another thread here awhile ago that someone was able to get General Spring to custom build them a set of MT packs with an official 3" of lift. Worth a call I'd say. I highly doubt they have enough volume to have Comanche MT sets made up and sitting on a shelf and likely just make them "to order", so adding some arch may not be a big deal or more money. That said, the Hell Creek 3" & 4.5" lift springs are rated at 1440lb capacity with a 4+1 leaf setup, whereas the MT packs are rated at 1700lbs with a 3+2 spring pack. The load capacity on standard MJ replacement spring packs (no lift) from General Spring is rated at 1280lbs. Maybe the Hell Creek 4.5" packs are a compromise for you unless you routinely haul or tow heavy loads and need the full capacity MT packs offer. Link to 9yr old thread of similar discussion........

With the twist lock on the bulb base, it might be for behind the HVAC controls.

That was just pure ignorance by any stretch. Have the tranny shop source you a decent AX15 or NVG3550 and rebuild that, can't imagine it would have cost any more and now you have a substantially better tranny with plenty of parts availability when the need arises.

Jeep Driver, you don't get it and never will. Your YouTube video backs up what I'm saying because as you say in the video, "people are just effing idiots and I'm (you're) tired of dealing with their bull$#!&". Just because YOU say it works does not make it the end all be all. A square peg is not always the solution to filling a square hole. You rarely if ever are open to other approaches to solve common problems. I don't give a crap about "feelings", I'm talking about common decency and respect. I read most of your comments on here because, believe it or not, I AM trying to learn AND I respect your knowledge. But you have no patience for those that either don't understand the topic or potential solution, especially if they question you with something else they read, heard or experienced. I, along with most on here I believe, are not looking to have our hand held. But you show very little, if any, respect to others and what they do or don't know. Again, it's called common decency.

I would expect that reply from you no doubt. Just watched the video. So let me get this straight.............since you posted it on YouTube, that makes what you say factual?? All you did was rant the same stuff you already said on your posts. I'm no mechanic by any means, but I'd argue that your "test" of idling in a garage is not a real world example. Truck is not under load and being driven in 90+ degree heat. To be clear however, I am not debating what you or yxmj are both trying to say. I am not taking sides. But if you're the engineer that Jeep/AMC/Chrysler should have hired 30yrs ago, why is your belt squealing? Why haven't you re-engineered that yet? You've got the whole round fan on a square box problem figured out by putting half moon cutouts on your fan shroud, holy $#!&, why couldn't Jeep figure that out? Again, I am not debating your opinion on the subject. I am commenting on, what I consider, your aggressive and abrasive attitude. Look, I generally appreciate people that are direct and straightforward, I like knowing where they stand or what they think without playing games or having to read between the lines. You POTENTIALLY have a lot to offer here. But IMO you are more concerned with proving you are right about something instead of simply sharing your knowledge. And when trying to prove yourself, you more often than not insult the other party.