Eagle

That is another way to do it. Unfortunately, it's also illegal. By law, fog lights MUST turn off automatically when the headlights are switched to high beam. It is possible to take the trigger tap off the parking lights and still make it legal, but doing it that way requires two relays instead of one. If the aux lights happen to be "driving" lights, as opposed to "fog" lights, then they can be on ONLY with the high beams.

All you need is a relay. The fog lights get their power feed through the relay. To control the relay, tap into one of the low beam headlight wires, run from that to the switch, then from the switch to the control terminal on the light relay.

Don't you guys know about stickie posts/threads? https://comancheclub.com/topic/829-what-to-do-if-your-hood-release-cable-breaks/

I'm trying to figure out if this is even possible with a 4-stroke engine. The cam goes around once for each two revolutions of the engine. How can you eliminate the compression stroke? You would have to have one of the valves open on that stroke, which would mean that the corresponding cam lobe would have to be double-sided. Once you do that, you might as well make both the intake and exhaust lobes double sided, which would make the cylinders you're using for compressed air effectively 2-stroke rather than 4-stroke.

Well, aside from the fact that you now don't have a functional rear brake proportioning valve, and you have no idea if your rear brakes are now fully on, fully off, or somewhere in between ... no, nothing wrong at all. Why did you remove the actuating rod? Doing that can't possibly help anything, and in most cases will make any issues you have worse.

Okay ... PICS ... or it didn't happen.

The bottom two look like the caps the factory used to put over the idle mixture and idle speed adjustment screws on carburetors. The caps were supposed to prevent owners from trying to adjust the carbs. The upper bushing looks vaguely familiar, but I'm drawing a blank on where I might have seen its twin.

You're not alone. I thought it was going to be about installing rocking chair seats into an MJ, too.

Congratulations to both of you. Best wishes.

Did you rotate the headlight switch? It's a rotary dimmer.

If you have an '88, the switch for the idiot light is in the back of the cylinder head, on the driver's side. Later years used the PCM to control the water temp gauge/light, and those years had the sensor located in the thrmostat housing. So you can leave the factory switch to keep the idiot light, then get a new thermostat housing with the outlet for a temp sensor and use that to run your aftermarket gauge.

I've never seen a factory MJ rear bumper that didn't have that trim.

Actually, few if any people have gotten away with running GL5 for long periods. It does eat the synchros. Probably not overnight, but rather quickly. The factory recommended gear lube was GL3, not GL5. When the specs were changed and GL3 became GL4 and then GL5, with corresponding increases in sulpher content, the factory quickly realized what the issue was and changed the recommended gear lube to 10W30 motor oil. Is anyone running Pennzoil Synchromesh gear lube in an AX-15 (or AX-5, or BA 10/5)?

The stroker guru is Dina Savva. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=dino+savva+stroker&ia=web The biggest issue is compression. The deck height of the 4.0L engine is slightly different from the deck height of the 258/4.2L engine. If you just use the 4.2L rods along with the 4.2L crank and stock 4.0L pistons, the compression is too high. There are ways to deal with that. Too much to get into here -- follow the links in that search page I posted, and happy reading.

Here's the link to Monroe's shock dimension chart: http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf Based on several different Monroe and Rancho shocks listed as OEM replacements for the rear of the MJ, you need to look for a Load Leveler with a compressed length of approximately 13.5 to 14.5 inches and an extended length of approximately 22.25 to 23.25 inches. The end mounts with the open eye on both ends is the L1/L1, but the two numbers we've already provided are the only two L1/L1 Load Levelers that meet those dimensions. So then what you need to do is find something with those approximate dimension that has end fittings that may be L1 (open eye) on one end and a cross pin (XP) on the other end, or even something with cross pins on both ends. You can remove the cross pins to use them on the MJ. Look in the models with part numbers in the 58xxx series -- those are the Load Levelers. (Pages 17 and 18). Number 58567 might work. It's an L1/L1 unit. Compressed length is 12.5", extended length 20.38". Check your truck to see if the distance between your upper and lower shock mounts falls between those numbers. 58574 has an L1 on one end and an XP7 on the other end. Compressed length is 13.38" and extended length is 21.25". Pretty close to what you need. Other possibilities: 58594. If you jump to page 97, you'll find a description of the different end mounting codes and dimension.

If you strike out on the Monroe Load Levelers, you can always make your own coil-overs. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/rideeffex-4975/truck---towing-16781/trailer---towing-16648/trailer-accessories-16827/spring-helpers---shock-extenders-17443/c5f7fccb14e5/superior-rideeffex-load-control-springs/140490/4740164?pos=2 The advantage to the ones you install yourself is that you can choose whether to build in some initial preload (lift), or set them up for no lift so they just add carrying capacity.

When I was in high school I knew a guy who ran his washer hose back to the tailpipe. When he hit the "wash" button it sprayed onto the hot exhaust, creating a cloud of steam behind him as he went down the road.

That shock fits a 1968 Ford Econoline E-100. There probably aren't a lot of those on the road these days. Try Monroe part number 58627. It has a tad less travel but the overall dimensions are close enough that it should work, and it has the correct L1 bushing on both ends. It's listed for an '87-'95 Nissan Pathfinder, rear.

Could be either 4+1 or 3+2

^^^ This, plus the Metric Ton package wasn't offered with the shortbeds, only on the longneds. My vote goes to aftermarket springs.

^^^ This. It sounds exactly like a classic case of a heat soaked CPS.

I've also sent out inquiries to the admins of a forum using Simple Machines, and another that uses phpbb.

I'm fairly certain that vBulletin includes a default mobile style (or "skin") out of the box. I have e-mailed my friend to ask him if this is part of the basic package or an enhancement.

Yeah, what he said.

I've drilled them out and replaced with slightly larger machine screws. The factory studs are, IIRC, 5mm. 1/4" is just a bit larger than 6mm, so you should be able to make do with either 6mm or 1/4".