Eagle

Apparently it originated a bit before P.T.: https://knowyourphrase.com/a-fool-and-his-money-soon-parted https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/a-fool-and-his-money-are-soon-parted.html

Who was it who said (or wrote), "A fool and his money are soon parted"?

No. There is no slave cylinder for the manual transmission. Perhaps you mean the clutch slave cylinder (which only applies to vehicles with a manual transmission).

Musk claims that Tesla already has 200,000 pre-orders for the new "truck." I don't believe it.

Unless you want something that looks and fits like the original. For someone doing a restoration, nothing else would be acceptable.

I can't help there. All my MJs are shortbeds, with two straps. Maybe you need longer J-bolts?

You can install patches that fit flush if you use a flanging tool. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=air punch flange tool

Yes. The original factory spec for gear lube in the AX-15 was 75W90 GL3. However, GL3 no longer exists. It's now GL5, and GL5-grade gear oils contain more sulpher-bearing additives than GL3. The synchronizers are brass, and the sulpher in GL5 eats up the brass. The factory revised the spec to 30 weight motor oil. A couple of the good synthetic gear oils don't contain sulpher and don't attack the synchronizers. Those are the best choice, but they're expensive and you probably won't find them at the corner auto marts emporium.

Jay - It's good of you to offer. Speaking for myself (see my signature!), I'll just throw out there that IMHO most people who want the factory hidden winch mounts will want an exact duplicate, not an "improved" version. The factory hidden winch option came with either a 5,000 or 6,000 pound winch. Even 20 years ago, most people who were rocking winches on modified XJs were using at least 8,000 pound winches. It's not actually hard to make. A long time ago I had a CADD drawing of it ... yeah, found it.

I think it would be great to have someone reproduce the hidden winch mounts. One correction: The factory tow hook brackets had two sets of mounting holes; one set mounted the bumper in the stock location, the other set moved the bumper forward several inches to allow space for the hidden winch. As far as I know, none of the currently available aftermarket tow hook brackets have the second set of holes for mounting the bumper in the forward position. Also, the factory hidden winch kit included fillers to cover the gap between the bumper and the grille.

IMHO that means your steering box is toast. It shouldn't take more than an eighth or a quarter turn to bring a steering box back to better-than-new adjustment. AZJeff is entirely correct -- many steering boxes have been ruined by adjusting improperly or too much. The shop at my dealership refuses to even touch that adjustment, because they're afraid they'll do more harm than good. Once it has been over-tightened, the box wears rapidly, and after that adjustment is just like a dog chasing its tail. You'll never win.

When I was actively involved in off-roading, I carried a tree saver and a 20-foot, 20,000 pound recovery strap. With winter approaching, I figured it's time to be sure I'm prepared ... and I'm not. I found a couple of tree savers, but I can't find the 20-foot recovery strap. So I fired up Amazon. And I found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072285ND2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 It's a 20-foot nylon recovery strap, but it's only rated at 10,000 ultimate strength (3,333 pounds safe working load limit). Amazon also offers a 2" x 20' Smittybilt recovery strap that's rated at 20,000 pounds, but it costs almost four times as much. Living on social security, it's a tough call on whether or not to spend four times as much for something I'll likely never need or use, but want to have "just in case." I think for a Cherokee or a Comanche, or using one of those to pull a car out of a snow bank, a working load of 3,333 pounds is plenty. I'd be pulling, not trying to lift the entire vehicle. The issue is that on a couple of occasions in the past I have rescued FedEx delivery trucks and the like, and those weigh more than the average Jeep. So do I spend the extra $$$ just in case I need to rescue a FedEx truck, or do I just buy the 10,000 pond strap and make the decision that if FedEx can't stay on the pavement, they're on their own? FWIW, all the straps I found on Amazon seems to be made in China (surprise!) -- even the 20,000 pound Smittybilt.

I'm sure you mean AW4. The AX-4 was the Aisin-Seiki 4-speed manual transmission behind the base model 4-cylinder engines.

Historically, Chevy small block V8 conversions in XJs and MJs have had cooling problems. Unless there's some reason why you really have to have a V8, a much easier and better swap would be a GM 3.4L V6 out of a rear wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird.

If you replace something with a "better part," you haven't deleted anything. You have simply replaced it.

I think it makes perfect sense for fog lights to operate with the parking lights, even if the headlights are off -- but that's not the way AMC/Jeep wired them. The problem with wiring them to the parking lights is that the law requires that fog lights go off when the headlights are switched to high beam. There is a solution to that -- it requires a second relay in the fog light circuit, wired so the fog light circuit is interrupted when the high beams come on.

There's a link to the 1988 electrical manual on this site somewhere. Find that and study it -- the '86 should be pretty much the same, although wire colors might be different. What you need to know is that AMC wired fog lights so that they ONLY come on with the low beam headlights. They did not operate if you only had the parking lights on, and they did not operate when the high beams were on. (That part is federal regulation -- fog lights MUST turn off when the headlights go to high beam.) If your fog lights only operate when the high beams are on, something is wired backwards. I assume there is a relay somewhere in the circuit. If so, I suspect that you need to find terminals 87 and 87A on the relay, and move that connector from whichever it's on to the one that's empty.

What did you use for the front air dam, and where did you get clear lenses for the side marker lights?

Why doesn't that make sense? That is exactly how a 4-stroke engine works. They can't operate any other way. The crankshaft goes around twice for every one revolution of the cam shaft. The first time cylinder number 1 hits TDC it's on the compression stroke -- both valves closed. That's when it fires. Then the piston goes down on the power stroke. When the piston comes up again, the exhaust valve opens and the piston pushes the combustion residue out. When the pistol reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve closes and the intake valve opens. Then as the piston goes down it's on the intake stroke and it pulls in the fresh fuel-air mix for the next firing cycle. Then the intake valve closes and as the piston moves up it compresses the fresh fuel-air charge. Rinse and repeat. I'd say you had the #1 piston on TDC for the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke.

Are you looking to replace the actual Comanche bed, or are you asking about a molded, drop-in bed liner?

How old are your spark plug wires?

Those stock rims are 5.25" backspacing.

A former girlfriend lives in Montana. She's buying a used Toyota Highlander and she asked for my opinion of this snow plow rig. I know nothing about it. Does anyone know anything about it? https://www.agricover.com/snowsport/lt/

I don't remember -- does your MJ have a lift? What's your caster angle? Reduced caster contributes to death wobble.