Eagle

Manual floor shift for the win. Except: For serious off-roading on rocky trails, an automatic makes life MUCH easier. For that, I prefer a floor shifter rather than a column shifter.

Congratulations! Wow! 9 pounds 14 ounces. He's a bruiser -- which side of the family did THAT come from?

I don't think so. The spokes on the 2000-2001 XJ rims were flatter. See Jeep Driver's post, above.

It has a distributor, so the engine is 1999 or earlier. The 2000 4.0L had direct coil/rail ignition.

I haven't seen any on the road, so not an issue. Would I wave at one? I'm not sure. Maybe if it was modified, lifted, or otherwise showed signs of belonging to a real Jeep person, otherwise probably not. Although I can't imagine any real Jeep person owning one.

Nobody uses MovieMaker?

Does anyone use it? If so, can you tell me if it's possible to delete a poor audio track and then record a narration track to go along with the video?

^^^ I think this is the key.

Correct on both numbers. Having run a ZJ box in a 2001 Cherokee, at this point if I had an MJ that needed a steering box I would go to AGR Steering and buy one with a 10:1 ratio. Hornbrod disagreed with me -- he thought that was too fast -- but IMHO the longer wheelbase of the MJs (especially the LWB models) would make it feel about like the 12.7:1 box in an XJ.

Don't advise her to get ahead of herself and violate the club rules. She CAN'T offer them for sale anywhere on this site other than the classifieds, and she can't use the classifieds to sell until she meets the minimum participation criteria. Lizzy, this isn't for no reason other than to make life difficult for you. There are a lot of scammers on the Internet (and we have had a few here), so Pete had to have some way of allowing our members to get to know someone before that someone can start selling things here. Ten posts isn't a very high bar -- another forum I belong to requires a minimum of thirty posts (which I think is a more reasonable number). If there's a valid reason why you need to sell them now and you have a good reason for not becoming a participating member of the forum, I'd suggest that you contact Pete M (our supreme leader) via private message and explain the situation to him. He's a softie -- if you have a hardship, I'm sure Pete will work with you. Please do NOT start posting details about the trucks in this part of the forum now that you have announced the intention to sell. One of the moderators (probably me) will have to delete the posts and send you a nastygram, and we actually don't enjoy doing that.

Ever hear of Clayton Offroad? https://www.claytonoffroad.com/?cPath=86_110 Clayton was an industrial engineer when I first met him. He worked for a small manufacturing company two towns north from me. We were both members of the same off-road club, and he got started by making stuff for his own rig, which was once a Grand Cherokee ZJ. (It later became pretty much unrecognizable.) Then members of the club started having him make similar parts for their rigs. A few years later, he was renting an unused garage area in the factory where he worked, and selling and installing his long arm kits. It grew from there. He quit the manufacturing company and struck out on his own somewhere in Waterbury, Connecticut. Now he's in East Haven, in an even larger facility. If you have an understanding and cooperative employer, you might be able to follow a similar path. Doing a complete career change isn't easy, and usually involves going back to school for some sort of training, and probably certification. And, as has been pointed out, then you start at the low end of the ladder.

Back at you, and the same to everyone.

The '87 2.5L should have a throttle body injection, not a carburetor. The throttle body isn't hard to remove -- disconnect the throttle linkage, disconnect the fuel inlet line, unbolt it, take it off.

Hey, at least the frame is good

The ZJ box isn't any beefier than the XJ/MJ box, it just has a slightly faster ratio. XJ/MJ ratio is 14:1, the ZJ box is 12.7:1. If you want beefier, get the Dakota box.

Merry Christmas, y'all.

As others have already noted, the most likely suspect is the CPS.

The following is from the draft of a book I started to write many years ago. It is copyrighted and by posting it here I do NOT grant anyone permission to distribute copies of it to anyone else, in any form. In general, the parts to be concerned with in keeping the front brakes compatible are the steering knuckles, the hub/bearing assemblies, the rotors, and the calipers. (There is a more complete enumeration of the interrelationship of these parts in Chapter 6, Axles.) Only two steering knuckle designs were used: 1984 through 1989, and 1990 through 2001. Left and right side knuckles are different part numbers within each group. Three different hub/bearing units were used. The hub/bearing units are the same for both sides of the vehicle. The different years for hub/bearing assemblies were: 1984 through 1989; 1990 through mid-1999 (composite rotors); and late-1999 through 2001 (cast rotors). Three rotor types were used: 1984 through 1989; 1990 through mid-1999 (composite); and late-1999 through 2001 (cast). Only two caliper types were used: 1984 through 1989, and 1990 through 2001. Left and right side calipers are different part numbers within each group.

Considering the rear disc brakes, the ZJ factory combination valve would probably be a better choice than an XJ combination valve. The ZJ unit is calibrated for disk brakes.

Do we have any EMT's among our membership? I need some help from an EMT. I've been tasked with writing a review of an "outdoorsman's" first aid kit. The base level retails for $99.95 -- it's more an entry-level trauma kit than it is a simple "first aid" kit. Obviously, I have photos and a list of the contents of the kit I'm reviewing, and I also have photos and lists of contents of two much less expensive first aid kits, one that's 106 pieces and one that's 52 pieces. I plan to use those for comparison, to show where in the spectrum the reviewed kit falls. I would also like to show something more toward the upper end of the spectrum, i.e. a basic-level EMT first responder kit. Oh -- also, dimensions of the bag, closed and stocked, would also be helpful. I know I could do some Googling and find something on the Internet, but I don't want to infringe copyrights on any company's photo(s). If there are any first responders among us, I would very much appreciate it if you could snap a couple of decent quality photos of your EMT bag -- one showing the bag closed and ready to roll, and maybe a couple showing the bag opened to display the contents. If you have the time and the inclination, if you could then do a photo with the contents all spread out to show everything, that would be terrific -- but I know unpacking and repacking the bag takes time, of which none of us has enough. If you can do it, please drop me a PM and I'll send you an e-mail address for transmitting the photos. Thanks in advance.

I believe that should be the case, but I would still want the brake system failure light to be operational. Although I would hope that anyone who is a member of this forum knows enough to be able to tell when their brakes have filed without a light to confirm it.

I'm familiar with that unit, but it doesn't provide any way to operate the brake system warning light.

I just received confirmation that Mike from NJ's red XJ, which we saw on many, many NAXJA NAC trail rides, is a '92. It had the clutch/start lockout.

Do NOT run two proportioning valves. VERY bad idea, because you will have no way of controlling what the combination is doing. If you use a combo valve from an XJ (or a ZJ Grand Cherokee), open it up and disable the proportioning the way I described. Either that, or don't use an adjustable proportioning valve in series with the XJ proportioning valve. All XJ combo valves have the brake failure warning system built in. Look at the photo I posted above. That horizontal thing running across the top of the device is a shuttle valve.The plastic thing sticking out of the top is the switch. When the plunger is down (as in the photos), it rests in that narrow section of the shuttle plunger. If the plunger moves either direction (depending on whether the front or the rear brakes fail), the plunger is pushed up to close the circuit and activate the light on your dashboard.

No, it was several years earlier than 1998. Mike from NJ had one with the lockout and I'm pretty sure his was a '93 or '94.