Eagle

I haven't done it for a long time, but my choice has been good old lithium-based chassis lube. You don't glop it on, just a thin coating wiped onto the length of the inner cable as tou slide it back into the outer sheath. There may be newer products now that might be better. Maybe Cruiser will chime in with what they used at his dealership.

You don't grease the ends -- you pull the core out of the outer sleeve and lube the entire length of the core as you slide it back into the outer sleeve.

XJs and MJs in Chile were built in the U.S. and had Dana 35 front axles. Those in Venezuela were built in Venezuela and had dana 44 front axles. What these guys are talking about is a combination of lift and big tires (33s) often resulting in bent axle tubes. Sound familiar. Same problem the new Wranglers have with their so-called "Dana 44" front axles.

I can tell you that somewhere around twenty years and 200,000 miles I replaced the timing chain in my '88 XJ as what I thought was a preemptive strike. I'm an AMC guy, and the AMC V8s had a cam sprocket that used nylon teeth. They weren't good for much more than 100,000 or so miles (maybe 150,000 if well cared for). Thinking the Jeep was the same, I thought I was living on borrowed time. Once I got it apart, I found that the original timing chain was basically a roller chain, it was in perfect condition, and it hadn't stretched at all. I had the new parts so I installed them, but I saved the old parts and I wouldn't hesitate to use them to repair an older engine in a beater or trail rig. I would guess your 30-year old timing set is basically perfect.

Check the routing of the speedo cable for tight bends.

I wish I had $236 to burn. I'd love to try a stage 1 or stage 2 cam kit.

Pretty much, I think. My original '88 Cherokee is a Pioneer, and my red '88 Comanche is a Chief. They both have full gauges, but on the Cherokee I paid extra to get a tachometer, and the Coamche doesn't have a tach. So the tach wasn't part of the package. Both have the upgraded "hockey stick" arm rests. Both have the mini console. Both came with carpets. The Comanche Chief has a bench seat (cloth, not vinyl). The XJ Pioneer came with the 9-slot 15x6 steel wheels, but with chrome-like center caps and stainless steel trim rings. The MJ Chief came with the white 15x7 wagon wheels. The XJ Pioneer flares were painted body color -- the MJ Chief's flares were black.

Also check that vacuum reservoir behind the bumper for cracks.

Duplicate threads merged.

Your order is messed up. From the lowest: SporTruck Pioneer Chief Laredo Eliminator It's a base. The Pioneer and Chief both had gauges, not idiot lights. Also, only the base (a.k.a. SporTruck in some years) had the "station wagin" steering wheel rather than the 3-spoke wheel.

For your year, I believe the fuel gauge is also 0-88 ohms, same as the oil pressure sender. Zero ohms would be empty, 88 ohms would be full.

What year XJ? If it's a Type 2 cluster, the tachometer is adjustable.

Do you have an ohmmeter? With the gauge lead disconnected, check the resistance of the oil pressure sender with the engine off. Then start the engine and check the resistance again. Report results.

Good stuff. Thank you, Gentlemen. I have sent my compadre a link to this thread. Gotta help him out as much as possible. I can't do much physically yet, but he's been a YUUGE help to me while I'm recovering from hip replacement surgery. I owe him -- big time.

Bad idea. You risk contaminating the rear brakes.

Well, that explains why the tach is wrong. The tach counts firing impulses. A 4-cylinder has 2 impulses per revolution, a 6-cylinder has 3 impulses per revolution. Say your 4-cylinder is idling at 900 RPM -- that's 1800 impulses. Now divide by 3 -- a 6-cylinder tach will show 600 RPM.

Photo link appears broken to me.

Bummer. Thanks for the heads up.

Generally only if they're habitually overloaded.

Why would you think that? I own three MJs, and they're all at stock height.

A friend of mine has a 2.5L TJ. His stepson has a 4.0L TJ with a frame that's too far gone to drive. They want to swap the 4.0L engine into the Jeep with the solid frame. Does anyone know what's the deal on motor mounts? I found a parts manual for the YJ and, to my surprise, they actually had two different frames. Is the TJ the same thing, or can the motor mount issue be dealt with like in the XJ and MJ, with bolt-on parts?

Can we see a photo of the truck from a side view? The only thing I don't like is the 2-inch lift -- MJs already have a rake, so adding two inches of rear lift with a stock front isn't something I'd want to do.

I agree.

But does it have enough torque for rock climbing with an MJ?

Thank you for being wise enough to recognize that. There aren't many nice Comanches around, so it always hurts me to see someone thake a nice one and then chop it up and bash it over rocks. There are rough ones that are better suited for such duty -- and they're cheaper to buy in the first place.