Eagle

No, I'm suggesting exactly the opposite. I'm suggesting using the '92 YJ engine harness to run the engine, and leaving everything else alone. If Chrysler can separate out the HO engine harness and sell it as an aftermarket upgrade for the 4.2L, there's no reason why you can't use it as a stand-alone. I just don't understand why you seem to be fixated on messing with wiring that isn't part of the engine harness. "If it ain't broke ... don't fix it."

I have never heard that.

They are on the engine side of the firewall, but they are not part of the engine harness. I don't understand why you need to "wire them in," since they are already wired in and ready to go. You have a '90, so it originally had the ECU computer under the dashboard, but it did not have the C101 connector on the upper firewall (engine side). The new ECU should be mounted in the engine compartment, hopefully on the inside of the driver's side fender where it would be on a '91 or '92 MJ. So you'll have some wires going through the firewall that will be abandoned (or you can remove them to reduce clutter and confusion).

So get the wiring diagrams for both and adapt. To reiterate: Jeep sold the '94 4.0L Injection/ignition setup as a stand-alone conversion for the older 4.2L Wranglers. That means the engine harness can be used completely independent from anything else in the chassis harness, so IMHO it doesn't make any sense to change things that don't need to be changed.

I still don't understand why there's a need to change anything besides the actual engine harness.

What year MJ? You can make anything work -- it's a question of how much you want to make it happen. For what it's worth, the Mopar Performance Catalog used to sell the '94 Wrangler injection/ignition system as a stand-alone package. It was intended for upgrading the early, carbureted YJs to fuel injection but, since it was stand-alone, that tells us that you should be able to run the engine harness from a '92 YJ as a stand-alone, and not have to mess with the chassis and under-dash harness of the MJ.

Do you really want as much backspacing as possible, or do you want as little as possible?

The header will fit, BUT you will need corresponding grille and headlight bezels.

If your MJ has a manual transmission, the clutch master cylinder may have leaked hydraulic fluid onto the fuse panel. That corrodes and destroys the contacts. You may need to source a replacement fuse panel from a wreck with an automatic.

What are you trying to call out? I see at least two butt splices in that photo that definitely didn't come from the factory.

I haven't done it for a long time, but my choice has been good old lithium-based chassis lube. You don't glop it on, just a thin coating wiped onto the length of the inner cable as tou slide it back into the outer sheath. There may be newer products now that might be better. Maybe Cruiser will chime in with what they used at his dealership.

You don't grease the ends -- you pull the core out of the outer sleeve and lube the entire length of the core as you slide it back into the outer sleeve.

XJs and MJs in Chile were built in the U.S. and had Dana 35 front axles. Those in Venezuela were built in Venezuela and had dana 44 front axles. What these guys are talking about is a combination of lift and big tires (33s) often resulting in bent axle tubes. Sound familiar. Same problem the new Wranglers have with their so-called "Dana 44" front axles.

I can tell you that somewhere around twenty years and 200,000 miles I replaced the timing chain in my '88 XJ as what I thought was a preemptive strike. I'm an AMC guy, and the AMC V8s had a cam sprocket that used nylon teeth. They weren't good for much more than 100,000 or so miles (maybe 150,000 if well cared for). Thinking the Jeep was the same, I thought I was living on borrowed time. Once I got it apart, I found that the original timing chain was basically a roller chain, it was in perfect condition, and it hadn't stretched at all. I had the new parts so I installed them, but I saved the old parts and I wouldn't hesitate to use them to repair an older engine in a beater or trail rig. I would guess your 30-year old timing set is basically perfect.

Check the routing of the speedo cable for tight bends.

I wish I had $236 to burn. I'd love to try a stage 1 or stage 2 cam kit.

Pretty much, I think. My original '88 Cherokee is a Pioneer, and my red '88 Comanche is a Chief. They both have full gauges, but on the Cherokee I paid extra to get a tachometer, and the Coamche doesn't have a tach. So the tach wasn't part of the package. Both have the upgraded "hockey stick" arm rests. Both have the mini console. Both came with carpets. The Comanche Chief has a bench seat (cloth, not vinyl). The XJ Pioneer came with the 9-slot 15x6 steel wheels, but with chrome-like center caps and stainless steel trim rings. The MJ Chief came with the white 15x7 wagon wheels. The XJ Pioneer flares were painted body color -- the MJ Chief's flares were black.

Also check that vacuum reservoir behind the bumper for cracks.

Duplicate threads merged.

Your order is messed up. From the lowest: SporTruck Pioneer Chief Laredo Eliminator It's a base. The Pioneer and Chief both had gauges, not idiot lights. Also, only the base (a.k.a. SporTruck in some years) had the "station wagin" steering wheel rather than the 3-spoke wheel.

For your year, I believe the fuel gauge is also 0-88 ohms, same as the oil pressure sender. Zero ohms would be empty, 88 ohms would be full.

What year XJ? If it's a Type 2 cluster, the tachometer is adjustable.

Do you have an ohmmeter? With the gauge lead disconnected, check the resistance of the oil pressure sender with the engine off. Then start the engine and check the resistance again. Report results.

Good stuff. Thank you, Gentlemen. I have sent my compadre a link to this thread. Gotta help him out as much as possible. I can't do much physically yet, but he's been a YUUGE help to me while I'm recovering from hip replacement surgery. I owe him -- big time.

Bad idea. You risk contaminating the rear brakes.