Eagle

Well, that explains why the tach is wrong. The tach counts firing impulses. A 4-cylinder has 2 impulses per revolution, a 6-cylinder has 3 impulses per revolution. Say your 4-cylinder is idling at 900 RPM -- that's 1800 impulses. Now divide by 3 -- a 6-cylinder tach will show 600 RPM.

Photo link appears broken to me.

Bummer. Thanks for the heads up.

Generally only if they're habitually overloaded.

Why would you think that? I own three MJs, and they're all at stock height.

A friend of mine has a 2.5L TJ. His stepson has a 4.0L TJ with a frame that's too far gone to drive. They want to swap the 4.0L engine into the Jeep with the solid frame. Does anyone know what's the deal on motor mounts? I found a parts manual for the YJ and, to my surprise, they actually had two different frames. Is the TJ the same thing, or can the motor mount issue be dealt with like in the XJ and MJ, with bolt-on parts?

Can we see a photo of the truck from a side view? The only thing I don't like is the 2-inch lift -- MJs already have a rake, so adding two inches of rear lift with a stock front isn't something I'd want to do.

I agree.

But does it have enough torque for rock climbing with an MJ?

Thank you for being wise enough to recognize that. There aren't many nice Comanches around, so it always hurts me to see someone thake a nice one and then chop it up and bash it over rocks. There are rough ones that are better suited for such duty -- and they're cheaper to buy in the first place.

Fixed it for you.

Not bad at all.

Youtube thought I might want to watch this video:

First, does your '88 have a 4.0L engine? If it's a 2.5L, you can't do the swap. Assuming you have a 4.0L, the BA10/5 uses an internal slave cylinder/release bearing. The NV3550 uses an external slave, so you will need the 3550 transmission and the bell housing. Since you will need both, you will not need an adapter. I don't know about the driveshaft length.

Instead of just throwing parts at it blindly, why not figure out what's causing the problem and start there? You say the front end starts to shake when you pick up speed. What does that mean? Is this a slight shimmy, or is this death wobble? Does it happen when your speed increases from 20 to 25 MPH? From 25 to 30? How about ... does it start to shimmy at between 52 and 55 MPH, and then goes away when the speed gets over 60 MPH? A shimmy at 55 MPH that goes away above 60 is tire balance, and there is no combination of parts you can replace to correct for tire balance. Autozone, Advance Auto, and NAPA all offer on-line parts lookup. Have you tried looking up the parts yourself?

Not the way you mean. All the cranks are the same, and all the flywheels are the same. As long as they are for the same engine (by family, not by individual serial number) any flywheel works with any crankshaft. But later GM 2.8L and 3.4L engines were internally balanced, so you can't use an AMC flywheel on one of those GM engines, and you can't stuff a later GM 2.8L crank into an AMC engine unless you also switch to a neutral-balanced flywheel. No, there was no engine blueprinting room where each individual crankshaft was mated and balanced to a specific flywheel.

The version of the 2.8L that Jeep used was externally balanced. This means there is a counterweight on the flywheel / flexplate. If you have a Jeep 2.8L with the 904, everything should swap over with no problems.

I agree.

Simple test -- if the bolt circle is 5x4-1/2 ( to fit a Cherokee or Comanche) they aren't Buick wheels. The Javelin and AMX used the same 5x4-1/2" bolt circle that Xjs and MJs use.

Too low? I was going to suggest $1,500, with the caveat that I wouldn't expect it to sell quickly at that price. It's an 88, so it has the Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission. (Assuming that it's a 6-cylinder). It doesn't need the clutch cylinder to be bled -- it needs either the master or slave (or both) to be replaced, along with the hydraulic line between them. You've said it needs vacuum lines, a/c work, and brakes. When you look at prices in guides like Kelly Blue Book, those prices are for vehicles in running condition. The cost of needed repairs is subtracted from the printed values. That's a truck I would go look at for $1,500. And then I'd start bargaining down for the value of the needed clutch work, vacuum lines, brakes, and a/c work. I would not pay $1,500 for it in its current condition as described.

Steam and coolant coming out of the reservoir is overheating -- UNLESS the system wasn't fully burped when you refilled after doing the water pump.

It should not overheat with the primary fan alone. A concern I have is the comment that the water pump was replaced a couple of weeks ago. Are you certain (meaning are you absolutely, 100 percent, dead-on CERTAIN) that the parts guy gave you the correct water pump? The 4.0L and the older 4.2L engine have the same mounting pattern for the water pump. But ... the 4.2L water pump rotates "forward", for use with vee belts. The 4.0L water pump rotates in "reverse," for use with a serpentine belt. It's not unheard of for a parts counter drone to assume that all Jeep engines use the same water pump. They look the same on the outside, but the impellers are different.

That’s what I thought but after having my tires rebalanced recently the problem still persist. Too many shops now seem to think that having a fancy machine guarantees that the tires will be balanced right. Nothing could be farther from the truth. It requires a technician who knows (and cares) what he's doing. Maybe a year and a half ago I mounted some new tires on a set of used Cherokee rims I had bought. I had a balance problem. Took them to a nearby tire shop and asked to have them balanced. They reported that they couldn't balance them because all four wheels were bent. I then turned them over to a friend who was (at the time) the shop foreman in a VW dealership. He balanced them -- perfectly. The wheels were not bent, they tracked absolutely straight. All we could figure is that the techs at the first shop I went to didn't know what adapter to use for Jeep wheels. A wobble/shimmy/vibration that kicks in around 55 MPH and goes away at around 60 to 62 MPH is a tire balance problem. I don't know why 55 is the magic number -- it seems to be a constant irrespective of the tire size -- but that's the bottom line.

Tire balance.

What size rims are those? They also look a lot like the factory wheels from 68-69 Javelins and AMXs.