Eagle

The Renix switch is MUCH larger in diameter. Don't know the specs, but more than 1-inch in diameter. Definitely won't fit the t-stat housing.

The problem is that the t-stat housing sender is for the HO, and it uses the computer to control the aux fan. The Renix models controlled the aux fan with a switch in the driver's side radiator tank that fed a relay on the driver's side inner fender. You can certainly ue a sender in the t-stat housing, but you need to find one that's an ON-OFF switch, not a sender. Reports from years past were that there was a Corvette sender/switch that worked at the right temperature, but I have no idea what part number to look for.

Several years ago Advanced Auto had the correct evaporator for my '88 XJ. Sorry I don't have the part number but check 'em out.

Yeah -- I especially love it when I need something like a light bulb and they insist on knowing if it's for a 4-cylinder or a 6-cylinder, because their system can't look it up any other way.

Don't you love it when the &^$#(&^ parts don't fit, and they just blame it on "the computer"?

That's the one. Thank you.

The factory had a TSB and a kit to bypass the C101 connector so the two wires from the CPS went directly from the CPS connector through the firewall to the ECU. This was supposed to alleviate signal loss. I don't know if the associated kit (which was the CPS with the replacement wiring harness) is still available, but it should be easy enough to make up your own. Cruiser, do you by any chance have the part number and/or instructions for that kit?

When in doubt, consult the parts manual. 1990 was the year of the change. For 1987-1989, the MJ and XJ had the following for the Dana 35 rear brakes: Star adjuster ... 5200 1216 Right Star adjuster ... 5200 1215 Left Adjuster Lever ... J320 1030 Right Adjuster Lever ... J320 1029 Left 1990 XJ and MJ for the Dana 35 rear brakes: Star adjuster ... Each piece individual. 2944 586 + 6027 559 + 2944 692 + 2881 686 Right Star adjuster ... Each piece individual. 2944 586 + 6027 559 + 2944 693 + 2881 687 Left Adjuster Lever ... 3461 665 Right & Left For 1987-1989, the MJ and XJ had the following for the Dana 44 rear brakes: Star adjuster ... 8350 4308 Right Star adjuster ... 8350 4309 Left Adjuster Lever ... J320 1030 Right Adjuster Lever ... J320 1029 Left For 1990, the MJ and XJ had the following for the Dana 44 rear brakes: Same as for 1987-1989 I don't know why the star adjuster is different for the D35 and the D44 -- they look exactly the same and they work exactly the same, and the actuating lever is the same part number.

The MJ (and XJ) didn't start using the smaller 9" drum rear brakes until either 1990 or 1991. Prior to that, the standard and heavy-duty brakes were both 10" Bendix brakes, with the only difference being 1-3/4" or 2-1/2" shoes. The brake hardware (including the star adjusters) is the same for both.

Why would the metric ton brakes (which are the same Bendix brakes as used on the non-metric ton axles, in the 1986 through 1989 model years except for the drum width) be any different than the non-metric ton brakes? In fact, how COULD they be any different?

There are too many variables. Google up the formula for coil spring rate and you'll see that it involves the spring's free length, the coil diameter, the wire diameter, the number of coils, the number of free coils -- and probably another factor or two that I'm forgetting. Bottom line: you can't tell what the ride height will be by looking at them, you'll have to install them to find out. If they are going to ride 2 inches higher than a different set of coils with the same free length, then pretty obviously they are going to ride a lot stiffer.

You can, for short distances. The neutral position is for people who routinely tow their Jeep for long distances, such as behind a motor home. When towing with the transmission in neutral, unless you remove the driveshaft(s) the output end of the transmission is being turned by the wheels turning the driveshaft(s). This doesn't provide sufficient lubricant circulation, so a long distance tow can damage the transmission. Disconnecting the transmission from the transfer case eliminates that issue.

Yes, you have the Grizzlies. They are factory Jeep wheels, but they were not original to your (or any) Comanche.

Except that in the Comanche years neutral didn't disconnect the axles. It disconnected them from the transmission, but they were still locked together -- as in 4WD. Jeep didn't change that to provide a true neutral in the transfer case until the mid- or late 90s.

Sounds like a great road trip, but you have the wrong brand of vehicle.

Manual floor shift for the win. Except: For serious off-roading on rocky trails, an automatic makes life MUCH easier. For that, I prefer a floor shifter rather than a column shifter.

Congratulations! Wow! 9 pounds 14 ounces. He's a bruiser -- which side of the family did THAT come from?

I don't think so. The spokes on the 2000-2001 XJ rims were flatter. See Jeep Driver's post, above.

It has a distributor, so the engine is 1999 or earlier. The 2000 4.0L had direct coil/rail ignition.

I haven't seen any on the road, so not an issue. Would I wave at one? I'm not sure. Maybe if it was modified, lifted, or otherwise showed signs of belonging to a real Jeep person, otherwise probably not. Although I can't imagine any real Jeep person owning one.

Nobody uses MovieMaker?

Does anyone use it? If so, can you tell me if it's possible to delete a poor audio track and then record a narration track to go along with the video?

^^^ I think this is the key.

Correct on both numbers. Having run a ZJ box in a 2001 Cherokee, at this point if I had an MJ that needed a steering box I would go to AGR Steering and buy one with a 10:1 ratio. Hornbrod disagreed with me -- he thought that was too fast -- but IMHO the longer wheelbase of the MJs (especially the LWB models) would make it feel about like the 12.7:1 box in an XJ.

Don't advise her to get ahead of herself and violate the club rules. She CAN'T offer them for sale anywhere on this site other than the classifieds, and she can't use the classifieds to sell until she meets the minimum participation criteria. Lizzy, this isn't for no reason other than to make life difficult for you. There are a lot of scammers on the Internet (and we have had a few here), so Pete had to have some way of allowing our members to get to know someone before that someone can start selling things here. Ten posts isn't a very high bar -- another forum I belong to requires a minimum of thirty posts (which I think is a more reasonable number). If there's a valid reason why you need to sell them now and you have a good reason for not becoming a participating member of the forum, I'd suggest that you contact Pete M (our supreme leader) via private message and explain the situation to him. He's a softie -- if you have a hardship, I'm sure Pete will work with you. Please do NOT start posting details about the trucks in this part of the forum now that you have announced the intention to sell. One of the moderators (probably me) will have to delete the posts and send you a nastygram, and we actually don't enjoy doing that.